Style: English Bitter
ABV: 6%
Presentation: Single 500 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Microbrasserie Charlevoix
Country: Baie-Saint-Paul, Quebec, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

With their Dominus Vobiscum line-up Quebec’s own Microbrasserie Charlevoix has proven their ability to craft high quality Belgian style beers with a flair of their own personal interpretation added for good measure. Far from being just a niche brewery Charlevoix has proven how broad their brewing skills stretch by producing a separate series of British inspired styles that fall under the collective name of La Vache Folle.

Perhaps consider it a bit of a tongue-in-cheek nod to British ales since La Vache Folle translates into English as “The Mad Cow”, as the labels to these beers clearly illustrate. It does put a rather amusing face to Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy, yet fortunately the goodness doesn’t just stop with the gag, but continues on exceedingly well into the flavour and quality.

While they continue to put out a rotating Double IPA exclusively using a different hop variety each time (okay, technically a DIPA originated in the U.S.), their mainstays so far are a higher alcohol rendition of the nearly obsolete Milk Stout style, and an ESB that immediately became my favourite of that ubiquitous yet often misunderstood British family of ales—the English Bitter.

As an “Extra Special Bitter” this variation from Charlevoix comes in on the high end of the spectrum with stronger alcohol content and more flavour, putting it out of the running for a typical session beer, but more than making up for it in substance and satisfaction. A little goes a long way, no matter how much you are craving it afterwards. It may sound blasphemous to some traditionalists, but I even enjoy this La Vache Folle ESB more than the Fuller’s ESB, the latter of which tends to be the recognized watermark for the style.

The pint glass is the standard issue for this Francophone ESB. The label on this beer itself recommends to serve it between 6°C and 10°C, so if you want to hit that zone let it sit for 10-15 minutes first if you’re pulling it from the fridge.

To start is a tall creamy, spongy off-white head on the pour, with a slightly hazed bright copper hue to the body. There’s almost a poetic balance in the aroma that possesses mild toasty and biscuity malt, along with some light grassy and spicy hops. As it warms more some floral notes will slowly unravel. While the hops are slightly more predominant there’s still a decent balance in the flavour: mild dry toasty malt immediately followed by bright grassy and spicy hops, almost exactly as advertised by the aroma. What helps make it so deceptively drinkable at a slightly higher alcohol level is a medium-light mouthfeel that has a smooth texture and mild carbonation.

If you’re considering pairing this ESB with a large meal you can’t go wrong with a maple-glazed baked ham. Fish and chips with malt vinegar are always a decent traditional match up with an English Bitter. However considering this Bitter is made in Quebec it will do just as well with a platter of poutine. Personally I’d utilize the balance of this beer to wash down a savoury Montreal smoked meat sandwich or a Reuben, the flavours in both will play off one another beautifully.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Dominus Vobiscum Blanche
Dominus Vobiscum Blonde
Dominus Vobiscum Double
Dominus Vobiscum Triple
La Vache Folle Double IPA
La Vache Folle Milk Stout

In-Style:
Fuller’s ESB
Wells Bombardier English Premium Bitter
Duchy Originals Organic English Ale
XS Imperial Younger’s Special Bitter
Propeller Extra Special Bitter

Lateral Steps:
LTM Série Signature Oktoberfest
LTM Série Signature Sticke Alt
Belhaven Twisted Thistle IPA
Lagunitas Censored
Brooklyn Brown Ale

For The Adventurous:
Unibroue Maudite
Gulden Draak
Houblon Chouffe Dobbelen IPA Tripel
Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA

Style: Fruit/Wheat Ale
ABV: 5%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: McAuslan Brewing
Country: Montreal, Quebec, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

If you’re honest enough with yourself you’ll eventually come to realize that when something defies both convention and your own personal bias, then you have to admit to a job well done, even if it is grudgingly. Except for me there is no grudge involved whatsoever when it comes to the St-Ambroise Apricot Wheat Ale from Montreal’s enduring McAuslan Brewery, although sadly it does tend to get overlooked in my own perspective when it comes to beer shopping.

I’ve stated in a previous column on Fruit Beers that one of the major downfalls of this diverse style, one with already fairly loose parameters, is that the use of fruit can often be used in order to conceal an already bland or mediocre base beer. Of course with enough of this type of product on the market it’s enough to drive people away after only one or two bad experiences, especially if they weren’t keen on the whole prospect to begin with.

Fortunately the St-Ambroise Apricot Wheat Ale doesn’t suffer from this affliction—in fact the opposite is true. Even without the addition of fruit this would be a decent quality American style Wheat Ale. For the base they’ve employed malted wheat and a blend of different barley malts to help enhance the addition of natural apricot essence as the fruit component. The result is a solid beer, regardless of any contrary predispositions. Naturally if you are not partial to apricots to begin with this may be an obvious one to sit out on and pass by, it can’t be helped. But for the rest of you let’s check out this notable orchard inspired ale.

Glassware is a fairly open option with this fruit beer. A tall fluted Pilsner or Wheat glass can be optimal, however you won’t be missing out too much using a pint glass or a mug either. This particular beer may be subtle and well-rounded, but is not some delicate flower that needs to be treated with kid gloves. Allowing it to warm 5 or 10 minutes will allow the nuances to open up while still retaining enough of a chill to keep the experience enjoyable.

As is expected for an ale of this sort the appearance is a clear bright reddish-gold, crowned by a thick creamy white head. The nose will pick up orchard scents of apricot and peach, with hints of tropical fruit even, although only mild notes of clean grains in the background. A fine balancing act also takes place within the flavour between the sweetness of the apricot and the natural tartness of the malted wheat. Nothing becomes overwhelming or seems out of place. All carried along on a smooth and assertively carbonated mouthfeel.

While this Apricot Wheat Ale makes a great hot weather patio beer, there’s also enough going on within it to warrant it as a sweeter go-to choice any time of the year when the mood strikes. Yet when it comes to food I would recommend a minimalist approach of keeping things light and simple. Think along the lines of non-spicy Vietnamese soups, baked Brie, or salads tossed with a fruit vinaigrette dressing. White fish is a good option as well, especially if it’s been prepared with a citrus component. On the snacking side of things this Fruit Beer will help wash down tortilla chips dipped in a mild mango salsa.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
St-Ambroise Pale Ale
St-Ambroise Oatmeal Stout

Other Fruit Beers:
Cannery Blackberry Porter
Pump House Blueberry Ale
Liefmans Fruitbier
Lindemans Kriek Lambic
Wild Rose Wraspberry
Alley Kat Aprikat

Lateral Steps:
Yukon Chilkoot Lager
Pump House SOB
Crabbie’s Ginger Beer

For The Adventurous:
Unibroue Don de Dieu
Coney Island Albino Python
Red Racer IPA

Style: English Bitter
ABV: 5%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Pump House Brewery
strong>Country: Moncton, News Brunswick, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

It’s rather curious that here in Alberta we have beer choices so readily available from Japan, the depths of Eastern Europe, and even Australia, yet it’s not often that we get the chance to try what’s brewing out in the Maritimes of our own country. Fortunately we have Pump House from New Brunswick present on our shelves.

Here’s a craft brewery that’s a success story. Starting out as a brewpub in the heart of downtown Moncton in 1999, they were already able to expand and build a 2nd location in 2002 to bottle and brew more of their product. By 2005 they were crowned the Canadian Brewery of the Year for that year.

Bitters are a very common style in the United Kingdom, though aren’t as aggressively hopped as their name suggests. They were developed to be session beers, mellow in flavour and low enough in alcohol that several of them can be consumed in one sitting without dire consequence.

Bottled versions of Bitters tend to be called Pale Ales in the UK, lending the name to the bolder versions of them produced by craft breweries here in North America which tend to be labelled as American Pale Ales style-wise. Even though they refer to it as Bitter on the label and in its name, Pump House tends to describe this SOB as more of a West Coast style Pale Ale, acknowledging their use of citrusy American hops that have become the trademark of many beers made in that region over the years.

The resulting interpretation of this style ends up being an enjoyable and approachable final product that tries to offer the best of both worlds.

There’s no question about it, your favourite pint glass is what you want to drink this SOB from. The bottle chilled straight from the fridge is acceptable, but letting it sit 5 or 10 minutes first will allow the nuances to shine.

Expect a chill hazed copper body with a tall frothy white head that will stick around for a while. The aroma is mild but well worth the effort to explore. It possesses some dry toasty and caramel malt, some fruit sweetness, along with grassy and spicy hops. As to be expected from this style the flavour comes across more refined than bold, matching the aroma with toffee malts, hints of sweet orange, with a dry spicy hop finish and clean aftertaste. The mouthfeel is also dry and medium-bodied, with a moderate level of carbonation. All this adds up to a session beer that has enough character to keep you interested, but not so overwhelming that you need to dwell upon it after every sip.

Since the flavour is somewhat mild, keep this in mind when serving it with food. It will wash down common pub fare quite well, along the lines of burgers and sandwiches, fish and chips, or nachos. Spicy foods will also be complimented by the flavour profile so long as the heat isn’t too intense. Or to focus on accentuating the mild fruity esters consider pairing this with a hearty carrot and butternut squash soup that’s been kissed with a healthy presence of ginger.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Pump House Blueberry Ale
Pump House Cadian Ale
Pump House Fire Chief’s Red Ale
Pump House Scotch Ale

In-Style:
Hop Back Summer Lightning
Wild Rose SOB
Wellington Arkell Best Bitter
Fuller’s London Pride
Fuller’s ESB

Lateral Steps:
Yukon Red
Alley Kat Full Moon Pale Ale
St-Ambroise Pale Ale

For The Adventurous:
Karmeliet Tripel
Erdinger Weiss
Tree Hophead

Style: English Porter
ABV: 5.3%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 brown bottles
Brewery: Paddock Wood Brewing
Country: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

If you’re curious why some breweries tend to label their Porter as a London Porter it tends to be as an homage both to the birthplace of this style, as well as a nod to the standard brown version in its heyday over 200 years ago. Those were ales that utilized brown malts more than black patent, and had softer toasty notes with hints of chocolate and coffee. It was the roastier variations of Porter that eventually evolved into Stouts, along with the robust variety that Continental breweries produced in emulation.

Of course what comprises a traditional standard variety of Porter is also very open to much interpretation and debate. After all Porter is one of the oldest commercially brewed styles of beer still available today, which leaves a lot of room for tastes to change along with technology and techniques to advance and improve over the years. Speaking of which this style is personally responsible for many of those technological breakthroughs.

For starters Porter was the first truly mass-produced beer, giving birth to many large scale commercial breweries to help keep up with the public’s demand and thirst for it. This occurred hand in hand with the rise of the British Industrial Revolution, and in fact helped to fuel it. With the development of the national transport network within the United Kingdom, London Porters also became the first nationwide style of beer available in the world. On a global scale Porters became available in nearly every corner of the world, spanning across Europe, to India, China, the United States and the Caribbean Islands.

This particular version of London Porter from Paddock Wood is directly based on a recipe dating from 1850, when the style had already reached its apex in popularity. It even lacks the sour tinge that was normally imparted to the style by the Brettanomyces strain of yeast that would live in the nooks and crannies of the old wooden vats; by the 1850’s the particular brewery that this recipe was derived from had already made the switch to using stainless steel, thus eliminating the hospitable environment for the Brett yeast to thrive.

Be prepared for a straightforward tasty beer, a tall mug or pint glass will serve just fine. Give it about 10 minutes to warm up as well before cracking the cap open, as this will allow the malt to bloom out from behind the wall of chill-induced obscurity.

This London Porter is a deep dark brown with garnet highlights that can easily be mistaken for black if not held to any light source. Crowning it is a creamy mocha coloured head that will slowly settle. I tend to pick up notes of mild roasted malt, coffee, chocolate and chicory in the aroma, along with an underlying earthiness. The flavour follows through with toasty caramel and roasted malt, some cocoa and coffee, and a light bittersweet dry finish and aftertaste. A medium-light mouthfeel with low carbonation helps make this an ideal session beer for the malt fans out there.

Steve Cavan, the head of Paddock Wood Brewing, recommends pairing this London Porter with flame-grilled meat, as well as Mexican dishes accompanied by a good mole sauce. I would add to that list any hearty beef stews, or a good dense bowl of chili. Chocolate desserts will also have a fine dining partner with this Porter.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
606 IPA
Bête Noire
Czech Mate
Double Double
Black Cat Lager

In-Style:
Tree Spy Porter
Fuller’s London Porter
Samuel Smith’s Old Taddy Porter
Half Pints Pothole Porter
Anchor Porter

Lateral Steps:
Mt. Begbie Tall Timber Ale
Samuel Smith’s Nut brown Ale
Ayinger Celebrator Doppelbock
Lobkowicz Baron

For The Adventurous:
Aventinus
St. Bernardus Abt 12
North Coast Old Rasputin Imperial Stout

Style: American India Pale Ale
ABV: 6.5%
Presentation: 6 packs of 355 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Central City Brewing
Country: Surrey, B.C., Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Perhaps I may have mentioned it in a previous column, but I’ll openly admit that I’m something of a hophead. It took me years to acquire a taste for these complex bitter leafy green cones, the yang to the yin of the malt within the production of modern day beers. Until that point I shied away from hoppy beers, preferring to hang around with brown ales, stouts and mild pale lagers. When I did come across a hop-centric style I would slowly wrestle with it, and then rush back to my malty comfort zone immediately after.

It wasn’t until I came across beers made predominantly with American hop varieties that I started to notice aspects of them that I enjoyed, most notably the quenching, zesty citrus quality they imparted, especially the character of brisk lingering grapefruit. It’s not to everyone’s personal taste, although there is a growing population of craft beer drinkers who tend to crave them. Hence the growing numbers of these types of beers starting to fill up shelves. After a while I realized I was one of those who liked them too. A lot.

Central City Brewing from out in Surrey has developed what many believe to be the ultimate solution for those of us jonesing after a clean straight-forward citrus hop fix, no fooling around, no nonsense. What’s even more astounding is that this finely crafted beer comes in a can! Not only was this brewery able to make a fantastic IPA, but they also managed to overcome the stigma that no decent craft beer could come out of a lowly average sized can—the traditional container of the fizzy yellow mass-produced suds that so many aficionados had left behind for more adventurous tastes.

In light of that this would be one of those rare instances where I wouldn’t shake my finger at you for drinking this IPA straight out of the can, especially if you take it out camping or elsewhere relaxing out in the great outdoors. It’s crafted well enough that the concentrated hops found within are going to carry through. However while we’re still here in civilization let’s grab a glass to see what this looks like and get to know it better. A standard pint glass is the most direct choice, but if you do have some fancy glassware in your cupboards or on your shelves then I would suggest a tulip glass, which will help accentuate all the key attributes—like a bustiere for your beer! Between 5-15 minutes is how long I’d let this sit before opening; go for the shorter length of time if you feel like starting out with the hop content toned down a bit from the cold.

The moment you open the can you’ll be immediately engulfed by the aroma of grapefruit, and it will not let up. Once transferred to a glass you’ll be able to pick out some toasty malt after a while, trying to offer a hint of balance to an otherwise lopsided affair. And there’ll be more citrus grapefruit bouquet, it’s not going anywhere. If you’re a hophead like me then the first sip will be a foot through the door of paradise. Expect a brief and subtle introduction of toasted biscuity malt before the surf’s up for a tsunami of grapefruit hops from then on. The beauty of it is that this hoppiness is well maintained and never reaches the point of getting out of control, your taste buds stay on top the whole time without getting dragged under and drowned. The tide that carries this all in is a medium-bodied mouthfeel, with a texture that is a bit oily and slick from the substantial hop content.

If your palate survived all that excitement, chances are good that you may also have a thing for hot and spicy foods. You’ve now discovered a beer that will match all that intensity blow for blow. Whether it’s a vindaloo or madras curry, a silent and smouldering Thai dish, some five alarm chilli, or a plate of suicide hot wings, Red Racer IPA is your new culinary wingman. Expect the bitterness to do its best to cancel out the heat, while the brisk citrus will help cleanse the palate and quench.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Red Racer Pale Ale

In-Style:
Dogfish Head 6o Min. IPA
Tree Hophead
Lagunitas IPA
Indica IPA
Half Pints Little Scrapper IPA
Yukon Ice Fog IPA

Double IPA’s:
Lagunitas Maximus
Lagunitas Hop Stoopid
Dogfish Head 90 Min. IPA
Rogue XS Imperial IPA
He’Brew Bittersweet Lenny’s R.I.P.A.
Half Pints Humulus Ludicrous
Sherbrooke Bad Hare Day

I can still remember the first time that I heard of Tinhorn Creek Vineyards.  It was during a chat with a fellow Newfoundlander.  We were having a grand gab about home and then the conversation turned around to Canadian wines.  Peter was telling me about this Gewürztraminer from British Columbia.  He said that if I hadn’t tried it then I positively should.   He said that in his estimation it was the best Gewürztraminer in Canada.  Well, that sparked my interest for sure and I tried it that week.  It was pretty darn tasty.  That was at least 5-6 years ago.  Since that time I can’t tell you how many times we have heard people tell us about their visits to the Tinhorn Creek Vineyards.  People from Tinhorn Creek Vineyards have also travelled to Edmonton to share their love of wine with us.

Tinhorn Creek is located by Oliver, British Columbia.  Oliver is located near the south end of Okanagan between Osoyoos and Skaha Lakes.  Oliver is located just about 25 minutes north of the border between Canada and the U.S.  There is desert just south of Oliver and lakes, mountains, orchards and vineyards surround the town.  Oliver has the largest concentration of vineyards and commercial wineries in British Columbia.

The Tinhorn Creek winery took its name from a creek that runs above the property.  It was the site of an old gold and silver mine.  Back in the 19^th century the southern Okanagan region was known for its gold mines and silver mines.  Although the majority of the gold and remaining ore was recovered by early in the 20^th century, day miners still visit the area.

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards started with a 25 acre parcel and has since grown to 150 acres.   The proud owners are Sandra and Kenn Oldfield.

Sandra is originally from California and obtained her Masters of Eonology from University of California at Davis (UC Davis) in 2002, which is also the year she received her Canadian Citizenship.

“Kenn Oldfield has led the Tinhorn team since its inception in 1994.”  He was originally from Muskoka in Ontario.  He moved to Alberta where he received his B.A.Sc in Chemical engineering.  Kenn was in the Alberta Oil industry for 14 years before he started off on his new wine adventure.  “Kenn had taken all the course work for a master’s degree in viticulture from the University of California at Davis.”  He had the massive task of planting 150 acres of vines during a three year period.  He oversaw the building of the winery, an outdoor amphitheatre and the barrel cellar.  Since 2008 Ken has “stepped back from the general manager’s position” to take on special projects for the winery and you know a little leisure time is built in there too.

We are lucky to have over a dozen of Tinhorn Creek wines available in Alberta.  This week we are trying two of their wines… the Cabernet Franc and the Gewürztraminer.  All grapes for Tinhorn Creek wines are sourced from their own 150 acres.

“The 100-acre Diamondback Vineyard on the Black Sage Bench is planted with a mix of red and white varieties, primarily with Pinot Gris, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The 50-acre Tinhorn Creek Vineyard on the Golden Mile Bench is also planted with a mix of red and white grapes, but primarily features Gewürztraminer. Farming their vineyards using sustainable practices allows Tinhorn Creek full control over the quality of fruit delivered to the crush pad for each vintage.” (Source:  Tinhorn Creek website)

Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Franc VQA

Winery: Tinhorn Creek
Location: Oliver, British Columbia, Canada
Blend: Cabernet Franc
Tasting: Wednesday, November 3, 2010 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m

Cabernet Franc is a major red grape variety grown in many parts of both the old world and new world.  It generally is used to blend with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to create the wonderful wines of Bordeaux in France or to make a Bordeaux style of wine in other parts of the world.  Recent DNA studies have found that Cabernet Franc is actually one of the parents of Cabernet Sauvignon (the other parent is said to be Sauvignon Blanc).

Cabernet Franc has a thinner skin than Cabernet Sauvignon and it ripens earlier than its offspring.  It brings wonderful fruit to the mixture.  Although one does not see it on its own a great deal, it makes a great wine.  Cabernet Franc grows quite well in the South Okanagan.  The flavours are “intense herbal aromas with rich plum and berry fruit flavours.”

Food Pairing:

Barbequed sausages, Chicken or Hamburgers; Lasagne; Chili.

CSPC:     530717
Price:

$20.99 (Minus Winesday 10% discount.)

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Tinhorn Creek GewÜrztraminer VQA

Winery: Tinhorn Creek
Location: Oliver, British Columbia, Canada
Blend: Gewürztraminer
Tasting: Wednesday, November 3, 2010 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

This can be a tough grape to pronounce (ge-Vurtz-trah-meener), but it makes some yummy wine.  From Alsace in France to California in the U.S.A. and Niagara and Okanagan in Canada, this is a favourite grape all around.  It can be made dry or sweet and is delicious both ways.  It is considered a very aromatic medium to full-bodied white wine.

“This Gewurztraminer is full bodied and vibrant with tropical, melon, peach, pear, apple, honey, and vanilla flavours. The aromas are similar to the flavours, but also include some spice and floral notes.”

Food Pairing:

Prosciutto wrapped melon; Spring rolls; Ham; Duck liver pâté

CSPC:     530675
Price:

$19.99 (Minus Winesday 10% discount.)

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Next week we are off to South Africa.

Style: Strong Cask Ale
ABV: 12.2%
Presentation: Single 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Alley Kat Brewing Co. exclusive for Sherbrooke Liquor
Country: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

As something of a cousin to the Rye Dawn release of a couple years ago comes another foray into cask-aged beers from Sherbrooke with the release of Glenn Sherbrooke. For legal purposes we’ll assume that’s Glenn there posing on the label in his kilted glory (and be thankful, perhaps, that the wind isn’t gusting upwards from that vantage point).

The barrels used for this new series of cask-aged beers come straight from the Glenora Distillery in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia. These barrels formerly housed their signature Glen Breton Rare, which can be boasted as the only Canadian made Scottish-style single malt whiskey available. As you can imagine this indigenous distillery has had their fair share of run-ins with the Scotch Whisky Association, which were finally resolved in the middle of 2009 to the advantage of Glenora.

This brings us back to the extra “n” in Glenn Sherbrooke, which one can assume was placed there more on the side of caution rather than the sheer sake of resonance and aesthetics. However it still suits the chap in the kilt…..

This initial release of the new Glenn Sherbrooke line is comprised of Alley Kat’s Amber London-style Brown Ale that has been aged in 4 separate barrels that once contained the Glen Breton Rare, and then married together again in the same conditioning vessel before bottling. Some experimentation is anticipated with future editions by aging other styles to create a different final product each time.

However digressing back to this original batch I would recommend allowing the bottle to sit out for at least 20 minutes to half an hour in order to warm up before serving. A large brandy snifter would be one of the best ways to appreciate this high alcohol ale, helping to accentuate all the extra aromatics from the casks, along with the flavour.

Barrel #1 of Glenn Sherbrooke is dark hazy amber in appearance, although transforms to a bright rustic copper hue when held to light. Expect a few fingers width of creamy off-white head that will slowly settle. Mild nutty and toasted malt tones are apparent in the bouquet, however the major accent will be of residual whiskey from the barrels. The flavour is clean, revisiting the toasted and nutty malt from the aroma, while the casks contribute notes of wood, sweet whiskey and brown sugar. Finishing things off is a mild citrus and herbal character. Even though the alcohol is high, the mouthfeel is on the lighter side, with low carbonation, yet a slick texture that tends to get a bit sticky on the finish.

While many high alcohol beers are more difficult to pair with food, some strong, sharp cheese should be able to keep from being overwhelmed. Consider some Gorgonzola or Stilton, even some sharp aged cheddar. Earthy nuts such as walnuts and Brazil nuts are also a good option to serve along with the cheese, or on their own. For the more ambitious chefs in the crowd a beef bourguignon will stand in as a worthy main course to serve along with this current incarnation of Glenn Sherbrooke.

The next steps in the cooler:

Also From Sherbrooke:
Aaiieeeeeeeeee Caramba!
Van Helsing’s All Natural Mouthwash
Chocolate Cherry Ostiarius
Bad Hare Day
Sherbrooke Shamrock
Neopoleon
Ochsner’s 1905 Alberta Porter

Also From Alley Kat:
Alley Kat Amber
Alley Kat Aprikat
Full Moon Pale Ale
Charlie Flint’s Organic Lager
Olde Deuteronomy

Other Cask Ales:
Innis and Gunn Oak Aged Beer
Innis and Gunn Blonde
Ola Dubh Special Reserve 12
Ola Dubh Special Reserve 18

Lateral Steps:
Thomas Hardy’s Ale
Brooklyn Monster Ale
Fuller’s Vintage Ale

Style: Pumpkin Ale
ABV: 5.1%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 brown bottles
Brewery: Alley Kat Brewing
Country: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

What once seemed like an odd and curious concept when it first appeared several years ago has now become a local bastion of Autumn seasonal beers in Edmonton, and beyond. The original batch of Pumpkin Pi (the jack o’ lantern on the label had 3.14 carved in for the eyes) was the 2nd in-house limited edition beer to be offered by the Sherbrooke Liquor Store, and brewed under contract by the talented folks at the Alley Kat Brewery.

2007 was the year that Sherbrooke first introduced Pumpkin Pi for the local masses, and it was an immediate hit, selling out 135 flats in a mere 5 weeks. The 2nd release in 2008 was shared with Alley Kat for their own seasonal distribution and was so successful that 4 consecutive batches of it resulted in order to keep up with demand. As it proved to be the most successful seasonal beer Alley Kat had released in their now 15 year history, the exclusive province-wide distribution was wholly conceded back to Alley Kat by 2009 while Sherbrooke retained their reputation for carrying the largest stock of it. Now in 2010 Alley Kat has added an extra “e” to the name, and the label for Pumpkin Pie has a new look to match the new aesthetic of the brewery’s seasonal releases.

While it has managed to create a splash locally, Pumpkin Beers are nothing new. They had already made their debut by the time of the 2nd Thanksgiving dinner in 1623, along with pumpkin pie and pumpkin soup. Its inception came about through circumstances involving the mother of invention, utilizing the fermentable sugars within the pumpkin flesh as a substitute for traditional barley malt that was unavailable. When brewing malt became more accessible again in the “New World” this style fell out of vogue, although was still produced on occasion throughout the years and enjoyed intermittent spikes in popularity. Even affluent Yankees such as George Washington, Thomas Jefferson and Benjamin Franklin are historically known for brewing their own versions.

However contemporary success of the style is attributed to American craft brewer Bill Owens, who is said to have revived this historical beer in 1985 with his Buffalo Bill’s Pumpkin Ale. The trend soon caught on in the U.S. and it wasn’t long before every brewer worth their name was producing a version of Pumpkin Ale for the Autumn season, from the smallest microbrewer or brewpub operator, to the large commercial breweries. These days while travelling around the U.S. in the Fall you can’t turn around twice without coming across dozens of variations to sample. Sadly there are not as many Canadian producers, but the numbers seem to have increased over the past few years.

Now where things get a bit hazy is that there is no straightforward ingredients list or flavour profile for the Pumpkin Ale style. Some use just the pumpkin flesh (sometimes roasted first), some just use a medley of pumpkin spices, while others make use of both. The typical base style tends to be a neutral or malt forward amber ale, although some brewers have released porter and stout varieties, and there is even a mention or two of pumpkin lagers. The pumpkin itself doesn’t add much to the overall flavour, especially if it isn’t roasted, but provides a fuller body and mouthfeel. It’s the recognizable pumpkin spice that tends to do most of the legwork. Even then many brewers tend to come up with their own unique blend, potentially involving different combinations of cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, allspice, ginger, mace and caramelized sugar.

The Alley Kat brewery goes all out in the production of Pumpkin Pie, employing both the pumpkin meat and a special blend of pumpkin spices that is based on a personal pumpkin pie recipe of owner Neil Herbst. With the exception of small adjustments to help fine-tune and improve it, the recipe for Pumpkin Pie has remained consistent over the past 4 years since its inception. The only real ingredient substitution from the previous years is that the new 2010 release was brewed with Northern Brewer hops, which adds a little bit of earthiness in the background of the flavour.

Speaking of which, let’s check this stuff out now. Pumpkin beers in general are fairly versatile (think along the lines of Pale or Amber ales), so glassware comes down to personal preference, practically anything will serve well. In order to experience what the spices have to offer I’d allow a bottle of Pumpkin Pie to warm for about 10 minutes before opening.

A clear rustic copper coloured beer will pour into your chosen glass, which will have a creamy off-white head. The nose will discover a light sweet caramel at first, but the bouquet of pumpkin spices will soon take over. There’s more of a neutral malt presence in the flavour, hints of that caramel sweetness up front, but the earthy character of the pumpkin and the hops will replace it quickly, with the secret blend of pumpkin spices becoming most prominent from the middle to finish, and briefly in the aftertaste. The mouthfeel is medium-bodied, with a brisk splash of carbonation on the finish.

Of course the ideal pairing for this seasonal beer is Thanksgiving dinner, give yourself a gold star if you already came to that conclusion yourself. Since hunting season tends to fall around this time as well Pumpkin Pie will hold its own when matched with game meet as well.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Alley Kat Amber
Aprikat
Full Moon Pale Ale
Charlie Flint’s Organic Lager
Olde Deuteronomy

In-Style (seasonal):
St-Ambroise Citrouille
Howe Sound Pumpkineater Imperial Ale
Brooklyn Post Road

Lateral Steps:
Sherbrooke Aaiieeeeeeeeee Caramba!
Sherbrooke Van Helsing’s All Natural Mouthwash
Morimoto Black Obi Soba Ale
Rogue Juniper Ale
Dogfish Head Midas Touch
Amber’s Sap Vampire
Crabbie’s Ginger Beer
DDC Route Des Épices

Style: All-Malt Lager
ABV: 5%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Yukon Brewing Company
Country: Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Here’s the sole lager variety offered by a brewery that has carved a reputation out for their solid line up of ales. It then comes as no surprise that Chilkoot Lager manages to hold its own within the ranks of such a notable assemblage of suds to stand out based on its distinctive merits. Indeed, the brewers must be pretty proud of this beer to have given it the namesake of the brewery’s former moniker, back when Yukon was originally known as the Chilkoot Brewing Company.

However the origin of both names stems from the Chilkoot Trail, a route that runs through the Coast Mountains between Alaska and North Western Canada, with the highest point being the Chilkoot Pass. It was used frequently by the indigenous Tlingit people until it was overrun by prospectors during the Klondike Gold Rush. Both Canada and the U.S. have also deemed the trail a Historical Site on each respective side of the fence. Yukon Brewing may have only started producing Chilkoot Lager back in 2000, but by association it has a heck of a history linked with it.

The intention behind Chilkoot Lager was to provide locals with a mainstream lager alternative for those who were loyal followers of the hometown small craft business. Something a bit toned down from the ales, but more flavourful than other commercial lagers. Even in this act Yukon Brewing managed to produce something fairly unique for the style, or so I always thought. It stems from a special strain of brewer’s yeast that provides a subtle natural orchard fruit character. I tend to pick up apricot, while others even get nuances of peach, mango and even papaya. I’ll put out a disclaimer right here, this is not a fruit beer, and no fruit has been added. It’s the subtle manipulation of brewing yeast that adds this extra perk.

As with any lager you’re going to want to serve this one fairly chilled, just not iced cold. A tall lager or pilsner glass is the way to go, however your trusty pint glass will make a decent back-up.

This one tends to pour out with a bit of a chill haze, which means it’s not crystal clear, however it’s not turbid either. Pale golden in colour otherwise, with a short white head. Your nose will pick up some light bready malt, with hints of apricot or similar fruit, and light herbal hops. The malt remains light and in the background within the flavour, clean throughout, with mild notes of sweet fruit and leafy green hops on the finish. A light, crisp mouthfeel carries this all across your palate.

Speaking of palates, sweet salsa and mango chutney are the first food pairings that come to mind in relation to this lager. Most typically served with tortillas and pappadums respectively, but feel free to explore with other options. Soft cheese such as Brie or Camembert is another good choice, whether served with bread or crackers. For a fuller meal try a lightly spiced baked or roasted chicken, with a side of butter squash or sweet potato.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Yukon Red
Yukon Gold
Lead Dog Ale
Yukon Cranberry Wheat
Discovery Ale
Ice Fog IPA
Midnight Sun Espresso Stout

Other Craft Lagers:
Alley Kat Charlie Flint’s Original Lager
Mill Street Original Organic Lager
Coney Island Sword Swallower

Lateral Steps:
Boddingtons Pub Ale
St-Ambroise Pale Ale
Anchor Steam Ale
Edelweiss Snowfresh

For The Adventurous:
Duvel
Unibroue Don de Dieu
Delirium Tremens

Style: Robust Porter
ABV: 5.6%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Alley Kat Brewing Co. exclusive for Sherbrooke Liquor
Country: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

It’s that time again when Sherbrooke annually releases another recipe by the winner of the Homebrewer of the Year title from the Aurora Brewing Challenge, hosted by the Edmonton Homebrewers Guild. Commercially produced by the talented folks at the Alley Kat Brewery of course.

The winners this year were the local powerhouse homebrewing duo of Ray Duperron and Patrick Doyle, who also brought home the national award of Canadian Homebrewer of the Year, and apparently won by a pretty wide margin.

It will then come as no surprise that Ochsner’s 1905 Alberta Porter, based on one of their recipes, is a phenomenal beer; it’s honestly been a while since a beer has impressed me this much, let alone a Porter. This was brewed as a Robust Porter under the BJCP guidelines. The Beer Judge Certification Program is the governing institution that oversees homebrewing competitions such as the Aurora Brewing Challenge.

Just as a quick refresher, for the past 3 years now Sherbrooke has carried an exclusive batch of beer made by the local Alley Kat Brewery based on a recipe chosen by whoever ends up winning Edmonton’s Homebrewer of the Year award through the ABC competition. It’s a way of providing some recognition and support to amateur brewers, and frankly is a pretty darn good incentive to get homebrewers from across the country to enter this locally organized competition.

This year’s release was timed to coincide with and commemorate the province of Alberta’s 105th anniversary. The surname on the label of this beer is an homage to German immigrant Robert Ochsner and his wife Elizabeth, who opened what could be argued as the first brewery here in Edmonton back in 1894. Although not much is known about the Ochsners, it’s recorded that Robert took care of the business end of operations. It was Elizabeth who did all the brewing as head Brewmistress, the first female brewer in the province, and eventually earned some small local recognition with the designation of the Bohemian Maid. While the brewery changed hands and names over the years it did end up being called The Bohemian Maid in the late 1950’s. Elizabeth is credited with brewing 5 different styles of beer, including a Porter of some repute.

Which brings us back to our Porter in question. It’s my opinion that we don’t have a large enough selection of decent Porters here in Alberta, and as a result it’s an often confused and misunderstood style that tends to get overlooked. Hopefully this Porter will receive enough of a warm reception to be put into regular production after this inaugural batch.

Glassware is pretty much your choice on this one, it’s robust enough to be the one calling the shots regardless of shape or size. So grab your favourite glass. There’s also going to be a lot of flavour present even when it’s just been pulled out of the fridge, so once again I’ll leave the serving temperature up to your personal preference. Of course as it warms new facets within the aroma and flavour will be released. As this isn’t the type of style that you chug down in a few gulps, you’ll most likely get the chance to experience this.

Even though it’s not opaque (yet it certainly gives off that impression), this Porter is still a dense black, and will exhibit a brilliant ruby nimbus around the extremities if held up to direct light. Be prepared for a couple possible attempts to fill up your glass as well, as there is a massive frothy beige head from the pour. Lots of dark aromas will be received on the nose, layers of burnt malt, some toasted malt, wood, slight acidity, and when it warms up starts to reveal some espresso and cocoa. Things continue along these lines within the flavour, starting with some roasted malt with wood and earthy notes, some soft coffee and chocolate in the middle along with bittersweet acidity, then finishing with a sharp dry burnt malt character. As would be expected the mouthfeel is full, with a surprising amount of refined carbonation which scrubs the palate with each sip, keeping the more intense flavours in check between sips. A very well put together beer, credit must be given to Ray and Patrick for coming up with such a solid recipe, along with the crew at Alley Kat for replicating it to a commercial sized batch.

If exploring this Porter works up an appetite in you then grilled dishes would make a large varied option to serve alongside. Be it steak, pork or chicken, the smoke and char will match well. Another good option would be a plate of sausage and sauerkraut, as the acidity in the Porter and the sauerkraut will play off one another nicely. For something a little more exotic the complex flavours within a good mole sauce will accentuate the layers of dark flavour within this beer. And if you’re partial to more gamey meats they’ll be tamed by the robust characteristics that this Porter has to offer.

The next steps in the cooler:

Other Beers From Sherbrooke:
Sherbrooke Shamrock
Bad Hare Day
Aaiieeeeeeeeee Caramba!
Van Helsing’s All Natural Mouthwash
Chocolate Cherry Ostiarius
Neapolean

Other Beers From Alley Kat:
Alley Kat Amber
Alley Kat Aprikat
Full Moon Pale Ale
Charlie Flint’s Original Lager
Pumpkin Pi Spiced Ale
Olde Deuteronomy

In-Style:
Rogue Mocha Porter
Mill St. Coffee Porter
Fuller’s London Porter
Samuel Smith’s Old Taddy Porter
Paddock Wood London Porter

Lateral Steps:
Lost Coast Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout
Samuel Smith’s Imperial Stout
DDC Peche Mortel
St-Ambroise Oatmeal Stout
Half Pints Stir Stick Stout
Yukon Brewing Midnight Sun Espresso Stout
Paddock Wood Bête Noire