So there is this nice chap named Shaun Fraserborn in New Glasgow, Nova Scotia.  In Shaun’s early years, his dad’s railroad job transports the family from Nova Scotia to New Brunswick.  As he becomes a young man, Shaun decides that he wants to study to become a Geologist.  He packed his bags and headed to Halifax and after a number of years of hard work he graduated with his degree in Earth Sciences (Geology) from Dalhousie University.  That Geology graduate then went on to become a Firefighter, a brewery equipment salesman and then he started a brew pub and restaurant.  Over the years he has traveled hither and yon.  He travelled to places like Goobies (neat name heh!) and Swift Current in Newfoundland as a Geologist and then all the way around the world to Kazakhstan with his job in the brewery equipment business.  It was in Kazakhstan where he met his beautiful wife, Lilia.  He “somehow convinced her to marry (him) and move back to Canada”.  Shaun refers to himself as “the idea guy”.  He says “Lilia is the cross the T’s and dot the I’s person.”A perfect match.

The Brew Pub opened in 1999 and has been on a steady increase ever since.  The idea of a brewery grew from the popularity of the brew pub.  Then came the task of deciding which brews to bottle first.  They used the sales in the pub ‘to decide what to bottle’.  ‘Which one is the better entry one?’  Cadian came first.  With its easy drinking creamy texture, it was a winner.  The Blueberry Ale was second on the list.  Shaun said that they wanted to ‘make a European fruit beer, but in their style.’  And it worked.  So much so that the first two were followed by the Scotch Ale, the Red Ale and the SOB.

Pump House has a Flash Pasteurizer and a Tunnel Pasteurizer.  It is quite unusual to see a Micro-brewer with that type of equipment.  Among other things it helps with a long shelf life for the berws.  Usually it is the bigger guys using that equipment.

They carry the beer theme into the pub/restaurant too.  “Our chef is very inventive”.  They make many dishes using the beer/beer ingredients.  Like their every popular beer bread, beer sausages and beer-battered cheddar sticks.

In 2005 The Pump House made everyone sit of and take notice at the Canadian Brewing Awards.  In 6 different categories it received 9 medals (6 gold and 3 bronze).  As a result of that showing, The Pump House won the “Brewery of the Year” award.  These awards invite breweries of all sizes from all over this wonderful country of ours.  The breweries’ products compete against each over in blind tastings.

Pizza and beer make a great combination, so it is no wonder that the restaurant is so busy.  Shaun said that the restaurant sold about 55,000 thin crust personal-size pizzas last year.  A couple of years ago they were voted ‘Best Pizza in Moncton by Here Magazine’[1]

Shaun was just nominated for the Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year Award in Atlantic Canada.  That is quite an honour.

So what is in the future for Pump House?  ‘We are looking at canning.  Right now cans represent 40% of the market and is growing.’  Shaun noted that ‘half the weight of a 6 pack of beer is the weight of the bottles’.  That is significant.  By getting the weight down it opens up all avenues regarding shipping.

“Anything else in the future?”"Yah.I am retiring in 3 months” from the Fire Department.  Shaun is looking forward to a good night’s sleep and more time to work on the brewery/pub.

So let’s have a wee sip of this delish product…

Pump House Cadian

Producer: Pump House Brewery
Location: Moncton, New Brunswick, Canada
Tasting: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m

We live in an official bi-lingual country.  I live in a bi-lingual province and Moncton is the only official bi-lingual city in Canada.’  Shaun goes on to say that ‘the Acadians and the English get along great’.  The symbol of that is represented on the label of Cadian Cream Ale.  He used the Canadian flag and removed one red stripe and used the blue stripe and star of the Acadian flag.  A perfect representation of the two colours.

Ironically, keeping with the “2″ idea.  This cream ale is made up of 2 different beer yeast cultures… lager and ale.  “The mixing of the two different cultures brings out the best in each.”  “The metabolism of the lager is slow (55°F).  The ale has a higher metabolism (65°F).”  What you are left with is a nice creamy texture.

The brewery says this about their Cadian:  “Bright Golden color.  Aroma of honey and malt, over nutty and fruity (apricot) tones.  Sweet flavors from the malt, suggestive of toasted bread, with honey notes.  Slightly bitter with a bready aftertaste.

Our Cadian is very versatile.  It is well enjoyed as an aperitif, with most cheeses and all dishes showing light flavors.

Some nice pairings:

Any chicken and seafood dishes; cheeses such as Reblochon, FolEpi, Raclette, Gorgonzola, Manchego, Mimolette, Champs Doré, St-André, etc.”

CSPC:     734189
Price:

$14.99 (Minus Winesday 10% discount.)

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Pump House Blueberry

Producer: Pump House
Location: Moncton, New Brunswick, Canada
Tasting: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

Okay, first of all the beer is not blue.  It has a nice subtle flavour of blueberries without the colour.  Like the Cadian, the first time Richard and I had tried this was at SIP at Capital Ex in Edmonton this year.  I, for one, could not get over how this beer is so refreshing.  Just delicious.  We brought a number of people over to try it, because it was just so tasty.

How could you possibly turn this down the way they describe it:  “Pours golden-orange with a fine white head.  Aroma of fresh blueberries, blueberry bread (floury), crystallized sugars and pepper.  Sweet flavors dominated by mild blueberries with a malty background.  Sweet fruity aftertaste with hints of pepper.Light-medium body, creamy and refreshing.”

“Our Blueberry Ale is better enjoyed as an aperitif or with dessert. Keeping an open mind, it fits nicely with food plates which are slightly sweet in flavours (like some Cantonese dishes), or with any meat when served with a fruit based sauce (preferably blueberry, such as our Blueberry Ale Sweet and Mild BBQ sauce offered at our Barnyard BBQ) or with fruits in the stuffing.

Some nice pairings:

Cheese cake (with or without fruits), crème Brulée, Wensleydale cheese with Blueberries.”

We can tell you for sure that it will whet your whistle!!

CSPC:     727361
Price:

$14.99 (Minus Winesday 10% discount.)

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Chile will be our stop next week for some new wine that just arrived in the store.

Style: Black & Tan
ABV: 4.7%
Presentation: Single 473 ml cans
Brewery: Hockley Valley Brewing Co.
Country: Orangeville, Ontario, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

It’s a beer like this that helps to completely demolish my former bias towards canned beer, and the quality of their contents. As someone who holds a degree in Glassblowing I’m partial to glass bottles on several levels, although perhaps not all of them are for fully rational reasons. After all, it’s what sits inside them that matters the most, at least when it comes to beer.

To be honest cans are superior to bottles in many ways, with the exception of refermentation. There’s a good reason it’s referred to as “bottle conditioning”. With the development of new types of coating to line the insides there is no longer the concern for your beer getting that “tinny” flavour from sitting in a can for too long. Because cans are impermeable to light they completely prevent the goodness inside going bad from being light-struck, which stems from excessive exposure to light. They are also completely sealed, which makes the beer inside impervious to oxidization and any threat of bacterial infection from outside. Unfortunately bottle caps can loosen over time and allow oxygen to slowly leech in, sometimes with airborne bacteria hitching a ride with it.

The Black and Tan is also a bit of an odd style, one which is far from traditional. It’s claimed that the term Black and Tan was coined in the late 1800’s to describe a particular beer blend that was only served at the pub. This mixture tended to involve a Stout or a Porter as the “black”, which was poured carefully to rest upon a layer of Bitter or Lager, the “tan”. Not only was this a neat looking drink, but the 2 different beers would also blend of their own accord with each sip.

Of course it’s impossible to get these same results when sampling something like this from a bottle or a can, so the two different styles used need to be deftly blended ahead of time to even come close to getting the amicable mingling that one would with the pub version.

A tricky process indeed, and Hockley manages to pull it off impressively. For their rendition of a Black and Tan they use their own Stout mixed with a light ale they produce in-house that isn’t available otherwise outside of this blend.

This ale will be right at home in your pint glass or a wide-mouthed mug, and will be at an optimum serving temperature if allowed to sit out of the fridge for about 15 minutes.

Hockley’s Black and Tan is more of a dark brown in appearance, yet when held to light will turn a more translucent garnet cola hue. There’s also a creamy, spongy beige head that will drop rather quickly. While the aroma isn’t overly complex, it is however intense and enticing with a rich toasty and nutty chocolate character. The flavour doesn’t disappoint either, and is incredibly clean. I was able to pick out notes of toasted and mild roasty malt, some nuttiness, dry wafery cocoa along with a sweeter chocolate character, and some sweet coffee. Really, it’s almost everything you could hope for in a dark ale, all rolled into one. The mouthfeel is medium-bodied, possessing a slick texture with low carbonation, yet it develops a fullness when swallowed.

With a meal this beer can easily replace dessert itself with its rich dark flavour profile. It will also enhance a bowl of ice cream, chocolate cake or a fudge brownie. For a main course stick to grilled or roasted red meats. This Black and Tan will also help tame and balance out roasted game fowl as well, matching some of the earthiness of the meat, while also balancing it out with that extra chocolate and coffee sweetness it packs.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Hockley Dark

In-Style:
Mississippi Mud

Lateral Steps:
Samuel Smith’s Nut Brown Ale
Riggwelter Yorkshire Ale
Wellington County Ale
Alley Kat Amber
Mt. Begbie Tall Timber Ale
Jamaica Stout
Samuel Smith’s Oatmeal Stout
St-Ambroise Oatmeal Stout
Cannery Blackberry Porter

For The Adventurous:
Thomas Hardy’s Ale
Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout
Rogue XS Imperial Porter
Old Engine Oil
Celebrator Doppelbock

Style: Witbier
ABV: 5%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Alley Kat Brewing Co.
Country: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Before I go any further, I’d like to take a moment here to lament the disappearance of The Lingnan’s Pi Jiu beer (by the way, Pi Jiu is simply the Chinese name for beer). This was their first house brand that they produced with the Alley Kat Brewery for the airing of the t.v. show Family Restaurant on the Food Network. I enjoyed it the first time I tried it, there were aspects of it that I just couldn’t put my finger on, and it still remains one of the best herbed beers I have yet to try. What blew me away was when I later found out that they used a Pilsner for the base of it, and not an Amber Ale style which I had initially assumed. Let me tell you folks it takes a fair amount of skill to pull off that sort of flavour profile brewing with an herb when producing a Pale Lager style, as there is no room to hide any flaws whatsoever.

From what I heard it seems this beer just didn’t really catch on with the Lingnan’s clientele, possibly because it seemed a bit too exotic or strange at first. Regardless it’s a sad loss to the local beer drinking community here in Edmonton, I know that I miss it.

However on the bright side the new Lingnan house beer that is replacing it is equally as good in its own right. I suppose that sometimes you have to lose something good in order to get something good.

Chinese New Beer was released this year to coincide with the 15 days of celebration associated with Chinese New Year. The label itself even represents the ringing in of The Year of the Rabbit, and the booting out of The Year of the Tiger, quite literally! The style for this one is a Belgian Witbier that was chosen specifically to pair well with The Lingnan’s food menu, along with being a very approachable type of beer for the common palate. While it does have a prominent orange finish reminiscent of real mandarins there are none actually present within the beer itself, I was assured that it was all pulled off by the finesse of the brewers using the traditional coriander and orange peel utilized for this particular style.

If you’re curious to try this beer it’s available at the Lingnan Chinese Restaurant when dining in, and is also available for take home consumption in 6 packs here at the Sherbrooke Liquor Store.

The beauty of Witbiers is that they are quite versatile and you have several options with which to serve this one in question. Feel free to choose a pint glass, a Pilsner glass, or your favourite piece of stemware. Perhaps let it sit about 5 minutes out of the fridge to help take the initial chill off, and you’ll be set to go.

True to style Chinese New Beer pours out a cloudy light apricot colour, with a short creamy white head that slowly settles. It gives off the aroma of soft wheat, coriander, and traces of orange. The flavour offers some soft sweet wheat, the peachy and floral character of coriander, while finishing on a quenching orange citrus note with a clean aftertaste. This is delivered by a creamy smooth medium-bodied mouthfeel accompanied by some spritzy carbonation.

Since this is the house beer for a local restaurant here in Edmonton I thought it was fitting to offer some food pairings straight from their menu. Miles Quon from The Lingnan was kind enough to provide me a shortlist of dishes that stand out most for him with the Chinese New Beer. He should know after all, he was able to try everything on the menu along with their house beer, it was inevitable. It wasn’t all in one sitting though, that’s just crazy. For people who are only feeling a little peckish, Miles vouches for any of the Dry Ribs or Spring Rolls from the Appetizers section. When it comes to main courses his top picks are the Szechuan Shrimp, the Mandarin Beef, the Black Bean Chicken and the Dry Spicy Chicken.

The next steps in the cooler:

Also From Alley Kat:
Aprikat
Full Moon Pale Ale
Alley Kat Amber
Charlie Flint’s Original Lager
Olde Deuteronomy

In-Style:
Hoegaarden Original White Ale
Unibroue Blanche De Chambly
St. Bernardus Witbier
Wittekerke
Hitachino Nest White Ale
Lost Coast Great White
Mill Street Wit
DDC Rosée d’hibiscus

Lateral Steps:
Lost Coast Tangerine Wheat
Erdinger Weissbier
Edelweiss Snowfresh Weissbier
Duvel

For The Adventurous:
Delerium Tremens
Chimay White
Tripel Karmeliet
Gouden Carolus Tripel

Style: Fruit Ale
ABV: 5%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Yukon Brewing Company
Country: Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

While the name’s been changed and the packaging has gone through a pleasant face-lift, Yukon Brewing has been producing their Cranberry Wheat Ale full time since May of 2004, and as a Fall seasonal previous to that. Fortunately for us they have kept the recipe the same. Well, for the most part.

The original seasonal version of this beer first appeared in 2002 and was made only with local cranberries from within the Yukon. However as the demand for the beer rose, Yukon Brewing had to compromise and start bringing in the berries from outside of the province to brew with. I would still consider this the high road, as they didn’t succumb to switching to artificial flavouring instead.

The new name for this Cranberry Wheat Ale stems from a small local tributary in the south part of the Yukon that starts in the Big Salmon Range of the Pelly Mountains, and drains into Lake Teslin. It’s a clear water stream that houses many beavers and the occasional spawned salmon, while the most exciting part of it just happens to be its name. And you have to admit that Deadman Creek Cranberry Wheat rolls off the tongue quite well. Much more than, say, Brook’s Brook which lays a bit north of Deadman….

All that aside, let’s get back to the beer itself, which stands on its own regardless of fancier names and packaging. I know this has remained a favourite of mine among the fruit beers on the market, mainly because of its deft use of fruit which works with the overall character of the beer, rather than making it “fruity”. Many people make a bit of a bitter face when they try to fathom the taste of a cranberry beer, however after trying Deadman Creek they’re hard pressed to point out exactly where it is. That’s because it blends in so well with the beer and helps enhance it, rather than dominate it.

What happens is that the fruity tartness helps to balance out the tangy zip from the unfiltered yeast and adds an extra dimension to the soft subtle citrus character of the base wheat malt. The result has the cranberries taking the place of the bitterness that would normally stem from the hops.

The serving of this Cranberry Wheat Ale lies fairly open to personal preference, however I would suggest a Pilsner glass or a pint glass. While it will prove to be very refreshing when served fairly chilled, it will still quench as it slowly warms up. Perhaps let it sit out 5-10 minutes before pouring.

Since this is an unfiltered Wheat Ale, it appears as a hazy apricot colour with a spongy white head. A couple of inhalations will introduce some mild spicy, herbal notes, dry wheat and a hint of tartness from the cranberries. In the flavour is a balance between crisp wheat and some bready malt up front, finishing with some berry tartness and grassy hops. The mouthfeel lends a medium-bodied character, with a moderately spritzy carbonation.

While I consider this an ideal beer to help quench your thirst outdoors during the hotter months, there’s always the option to serve it along with food. Being both a wheat-based and a fruit beer your best bet is to stick to the book-ends of the meal: starters or appetizers, and desserts. Deadman Creek will do an excellent job matching a vinaigrette used on any salad, while it contains enough zip to cut through heavier, creamier dressings. On the flip side you’ll also find amply suitable pairing options with fruit based desserts, whether they are citrus or berry based. For a more substantial pairing option try some sole or halibut garnished with some lemon. Or a pork roast. There’s also a cheese omelette to keep in mind if you’re into having a beer with a late brunch.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Yukon Gold
Yukon Red
Midnight Sun Espresso Stout
Discovery Ale
Ice Fog IPA
Lead Dog Ale

In-Style:
Unibroue Éphémère
St-Ambroise Apricot Wheat Ale
Samuel Smith’s Organic Strawberry Fruit Beer
Liefmans Cuvee-Brut

Lateral Steps:
Wild Rose Velvet Fog
Edelweiss Snowfresh
Hoegaarden
Lost Coast Great White
Hitachino Nest White Ale

Back in May, Richard and I attended an industry product show.  I was on one side of the room and he was on the other.  Richard called out “Hey Smiley (that’s me in case you are wondering), just try this new cooler.”  I was a little hesitant, because although they are very popular, I would normally choose something else to sip on a hot day.  Not that I don’t like sweet, because I sure do.  Richard said ‘I bet you are going to like it.’  Well, that convinced me.  I am an easy sell, eh!  ‘Holy cow, Richard.  What the heck is this?  It is really delish.’  ‘Wait a second’ he said.  ‘Now try this one.’  These clear fizzy drinks were quite delicious and I had to find out what they were.  Bassano Hard Soda.  Well, we were all over it.  Good flavour and not too sweet.  That is a great combination.  We went over and spoke with the people who represent them, Authentic Wine and Spirits, and said that Richard and I would love to do them for a Winesday, and here we are.  These drinks are a product of Aquilini Brands.  If that name sounds familiar to you, you are probably a hockey fan.  The Aquilini family and company own the Roger’s Centre and the Vancouver Canucks.

Now these are called “Italian Hard Sodas”?  What is an Italian Soda?  Well, that seems to be a bit of a contentious issue.  We will try to straighten it out the best that we can based on what we have heard and read.  The term Soda has been around for more than a century.  There are Italian Sodas, French Sodas and American Sodas.  The name ‘soda’ brings a picture to one’s mind of photos of Soda Fountains in the 1950’s and 1960’s. Remember the show Happy Days?  Soda fountains were an “attempt to replicate mineral waters that bubbled up from the earth”[1] “One claimant to the introduction and increased popularity of Italian sodas is Torani: Rinaldo and Ezilda Torre brought recipes for flavored syrups from Lucca, Italy and in 1925 introduced what become known as an Italian soda to the North Beach neighborhood of San Francisco, California.”[2]

Some say that Italian sodas are American sodas made with Italian syrups.  No matter what the origin, they are great.  Whether made from Torani or Morin (French syrups) or any other flavourful base.  Let’s not argue about it.  Let’s just enjoy it.

Bassano Hard Soda - Lemon Sanguinelli

Producer: Aquilini Brands
Tasting: Wednesday, July 13, 2011 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m

In an interview with the Vancouver Sun, Barry Olivier, who is the President of Aquilini Brands, stated that the name is very loosely based on a Prohibition-era character name Sandro Bassano who is said to have mixed vodka with Italian sodas in speakeasies.

“Bassano Hard Soda combines premium vodka, sparkling spring water and natural flavours into one refreshing beverage.”

We all know what ‘lemon’ is, but Sanguinelli is another story.  It is a type of blood orange.  So you know right off the bat that the citrus flavours in this drink are going to be front and centre.  People are always surprised when they see not only this hard soda, but also its sister soda.  ‘There is no colour.’  Clean and crisp are the first words that come to our minds.  And that is exactly what you get with this ‘cooler’.

I have heard so many people say how ‘thirst-quenching’ this is.  There is a bit of sweetness, but it is neither syrupy nor overpowering.  The bubbles are there, but less than you would think.  You know we could write about it until the cows come home.  The best way to see what you think of it is to come by and try it.

CSPC:     742692
Price:

$11.50 (Minus Winesday 10% discount.)

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice.

Bassano Hard Soda - Raspberry Pomelo

Producer: Aquilini Brands
Tasting: Wednesday, July 13, 2011 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

These products are made at Brick Brewing Co. in Ontario.  The water is sourced from a ‘spring-fed aquifer in Formose, Ontario.  They were released in Ontario on March 1 and Alberta and British Columbia on April 1 and they have been going gangbusters ever since.

The Raspberry Pomelo is a wonderful surprise, just like the Lemon Sanguinelli.  Pomelo is also a citrus fruit.  It is thought to be an ancestor of Grapefruit, actually.  If you look at the inside flesh of the fruit (the ones that I have seen, anyway), it almost looks like a ruby grapefruit colour.  You won’t forget this once you try it.

Tip ‘er up an’ down she goes!

CSPC:     742690
Price:

$11.50 (Minus Winesday 10% discount.)

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice.

So next week we are doing another summertime drink from Spain and a wine from France… just to mix it up a little.

Style: Cajun Dunkelweizen
ABV: 6.5%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Alley Kat Brewing Co. exclusive for Sherbrooke Liquor
Country: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

“Yes, we have no bananas.”

Once again I must offer full disclosure that this beer was an original concept of mine and that I had played a part in its production, although not in the final production of it. It’s even foggy in my recollection what initially set things in motion for it to get to that point. In fact Mojo A’Peel was supposed to be something else completely in the beginning—in fact two something else’s if the truth be told—however this was agreed by all involved as the most feasible concept to pursue.

While we are very fortunate to have such a large selection of beer here in Alberta to choose from (over 900 different kinds as of this writing), there are some styles that are in rather short supply as far as options are concerned. In a “Eureka!” moment I had realized that in general Dunkelweizens were not represented on local shelves in large numbers, and that it could be somewhat tailored after Bananas Foster with a little tweaking and without the use of any expensive or exotic extra ingredients.

For those not in the know, Bananas Foster is a dessert that was invented in 1951 at Brennan’s Restaurant in New Orleans, and has been part of the Cajun culinary repertoire ever since. I once had a friend from New Orleans, an absolutely amazing cook in her own right, who had first introduced me to this decadent combination of Southern comfort. Quartered bananas are flambéd in a sauce comprised of butter, dark rum, banana liqueur, brown sugar and cinnamon, and then quickly served over vanilla ice cream. It may sound like kind of a crazy mixture at first, but trust me, it works!

Unlike with the Heartstopper Stout, I didn’t formulate a preliminary recipe. Instead I sat down with Neil Herbst of the Alley Kat Brewery one day and discussed what kind of flavour profile we were looking for, and from what ingredients we would expect to get them from. To his well-deserved credit Neil hit the ground running with this project, and it was the initial recipe he formulated for the brew that we ended up using for the final production of it. I was invited back to Alley Kat for the brewing of the test batch which was a great experience, however for the most part involved watching Neil do what he does best, and being subject to his gracious hospitality.

In straying away from the traditional version of a German Dunkelweizen we lightened the malt bill up a bit to help provide a more caramelized character and colour rather than the traditional dark bready malt that usually adds more chocolaty notes. Contributing to the beery translation of the flambé sauce was an addition of Demerara brown sugar to do some double duty: as not only is brown sugar one of the key ingredients of Bananas Foster, but typically brown sugar ferments out in darker beers to produce something of a rummy flavour too. Now since vanilla beans are pretty darn expensive, we opted for the second best option, that of bourbon vanilla extract, which was added right before bottling to cover the ice cream aspect of the dessert.

At this point you’re probably asking, “Yeah, yeah, but what about the bananas?” And there’s not much I can tell you about any actual bananas used to make this beer. You see, the major reason I chose the Dunkelweizen style to tailor was that the yeast itself is capable of providing all the banana flavour necessary. The technical term is “ester”, which applies to any fruit-like flavours found in a beer when no actual fruit has been added. Utilizing this particular strain of yeast and fermenting the Mojo A’Peel at a higher temperature Alley Kat was able to accentuate the expected banana character in the beer, and show of some technical finesse without having to add an extra ingredient.

So then, another behind the scenes look for you all to see the inner workings of how a somewhat far out beer concept becomes a working reality. I swear I just don’t come up with the craziest idea I can fathom in order to see if it’ll turn out or not, there is a great deal of method behind the madness before something like this gets the green light and the go ahead.

A quick word on the label. Personally I had nothing to do with the illustrator that was selected for this label, however it was Scott Shaw! Who was chosen to pinch hit when regular Sherbrooke label artist John Keane was unavailable at the time. And what an illustrator to choose, as Scott certainly lives up to the exclamation mark in his name! Some of the highlights from his lengthy resume are being involved in over 100 t.v. commercials for Post’s Cocoa and Fruity Pebbles, along with doing box artwork for the cereals as well; designing several lines of Simpson’s figures for McFarlane Toys; and winning 4 Emmy Awards for his work on Jim Henson’s Muppet Babies cartoon from back in the 80’s. So I am quite flattered for the association alone with my beer recipe idea.

On to the actual beer now. A pint glass or a mug is your best bet in a pinch, while a Weizen glass would be a first pick if you own one. You’ll want to sample this one chilled, although not ice cold, and different characteristics will come out as it warms.

It pours out a cloudy caramel colour, with a tall smooth spongy light beige head. With a regular Dunkelweizen you would still expect the cloudiness, however the colour would be a dark brown instead. In the aroma expects notes of bananas, a sweet caramel character, with some faint woody vanilla in the background. Thee flavour will also present some banana and caramel at first, with the banana becoming more pronounced in the middle along with some mild nuttiness, finishing with some mild sweet vanilla. Delivering this is a smooth mouthfeel with a medium body and moderate carbonation.

Mojo A’Peel is certainly quite a rich beer, and one at a time may be enough to get your fill of it. Of course on its own this will make an excellent dessert beer to help finish off a meal, the goal was Bananas Foster in a bottle. Ice cream would be my first pairing suggestion, vanilla being the most obvious, followed by a nut or maple flavour. There’s even a brand of ice cream that has two fellow’s names on it that produces a Bananas Foster flavour, if you’re in the mood to double down. Other desserts such as cakes, squares or tarts that feature nuts are also good options. Along those lines a nutty variety of cheese is a good choice for those feeling peckish but not in the mood for dessert. However for a full meal consider pairing mild to medium spiced curries, sausages or a charcuterie platter of spicy cured meats, or even a dish of smoked or maple glazed salmon.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Alley Kat Amber
Alley Kat Aprikat
Full Moon Pale Ale
Charlie Flint’s Organic Lager
Olde Deuteronomy

Also From Sherbrooke:
Sherbrooke Shamrock
Bad Hare Day
Chocolate Cherry Ostiarius
Aaiieeeeeeeeee Caramba!
Van Helsing’s All Natural Mouthwash
Heartstopper
Glenn Sherbrooke
Glenda Sherbrooke
Neapoleon

Dunkelweizens:
Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier Dunkel
Erdinger Weissbier Dunkel
Leavenworth Boulder Bend Dunkelweizen

Lateral Steps:
König Ludwig Weiss
Ayinger Celebrator Doppelbock
Samichlaus

Style: Baltic Porter
ABV: 9.2%
Presentation: Single 750 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Les Trois Mousquetaires
Country: Brossard, Quebec, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Les Trois Mousquetaires is a unique artisanal craft brewery in Quebec that for the most part tends to focus on beer styles that originated in the Bavarian and Bohemian regions of Europe. I would consider their rendition of the Baltic Porter variety as one of the flagship offerings that exhibits the skill they are capable of.

This style is a traditional one from the countries bordering the Baltic Sea, the traditional route that British merchants used to ship Russian Imperial Stout to the royal court in St. Petersburg. Although it was influenced by this bigger, bolder Stout, it was still derived from the English Porters that were still the rage at the time on the Continent. Hence the Baltic Porter is a bit of a hybrid style, no less from the fact that much of the time it was cold fermented with Lager yeast.

It must be noted that it was Napoleon’s conquest of Eastern Europe and his strategy to halt British imports to those markets (including the huge demand for Stouts and Porters) that forced the people of occupied nations to start producing their own renditions of these styles in the first place, specifically Porters. If only to keep up with the local thirst and demands for these beers, which would not be halted even by the invasion of a foreign megalomaniac and his armies.

In light of that Les Trois Mousquetaires manages to pull off a brilliant home turf version of a Baltic Porter, yet without the threat (knock on wood!) of foreign invasion and limitation of using whatever ingredients just happen to be lying around. In light of not being an authentic Continental European creation, LTM has pulled off probably one of the finest examples of the style you may ever get the chance to try. If you’re so inspired by the style I hope you get the chance to try them all, as it’ll just help to reiterate my point. This one is up there with the best of them.

If you only own basic glassware then a pint glass or a mug will serve just fine, although a large snifter or red wine glass will help accentuate the higher alcohol and layers of flavour even moreso. Since this is a malty high alcohol beer you’ll do well to let it sit 20-30 minutes to warm up before pouring. It’s a big bottle though, so if you’re working your way through it on your own chances are it’ll warm up over time regardless of how chilled it is when you start, and in the end give you the chance to see how it changes with temperature. Ideally I’d still let it warm up a fair bit all the same.

This is an intense dense opaque pitch black beer, with a fairly quick receding spongy tan head. Rich roasted malt and coffee are primary on the nose, followed by alcohol, licorice, blackstrap molasses, and hints of cocoa nibs. The flavour is rich and reveals itself in layers and waves of espresso, black licorice, blackstrap molasses, dry roasted barley, black cherry and figs, with an alcoholic and vinous finish. There’s a delivery of a smooth, almost slick mouthfeel, medium-full body, which gets sticky on the finish.

Being a rich dark ale, shellfish like oysters and mussels are a traditional pairing option that will never miss. If you’re looking for a Fatherland dish to pair with this Porter of Continental origin consider some bratwurst of wiener schnitzel, or even some wild boar if you’re into more eccentric game meat. Actually this is a bold ale that will help tame most game served on the dinner table if you’re lucky enough to serve it. For the rest of us folks consider a domestic barbecue with some ribs or grilled meat. Smoked meats go great as well. And if this beer lasts until dessert, or you go out of your way to save it for that, sip it along with some bitter chocolate for an excellent match.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Doppelbock Grande Cuvée Printemps
Impériale Weizen Grande Cuvée
Série Signature Kellerbier
Série Signature Oktoberfest
Série Signature Rauchbier
Série Signature Sticke Alt

In-Style:
Half Pints Pot Hole Porter
Okanagan Springs Old English Porter

Other Porters:
Harviestoun Old Engine Oil
Anchor Porter
Fuller’s London Porter

Lateral Steps:
Péché Mortel
Mikkeller Beer Geek Breakfast
Raasted Imperial Stout

Style: Belgian Strong Pale Ale
ABV: 10%
Presentation: Single 750 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Le Trou Du Diable
Country: Shawinigan, Quebec, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

When it comes to Canadian produced beers from the past year or so, none has managed to surprise and delight me more than this special edition released by a small but growing craft brewpub/brewery from a small city nestled between both Montreal and Quebec City. What adds a bit more street cred to that statement is that fact that I don’t necessarily gravitate towards this type of beer as my initial instinct, especially when there is so much else available that I’ve yet to sample.

It seems to me that the talented folks at Le Trou Du Diable took on a potentially volatile endeavour, and with a healthy combination of craftsmanship and luck, managed to pull off what seems like a perfect storm of a final product. They utilize 3 different yeast strains with their original Tripel Abbey ale, named after a local historical member of the clergy, and age it for 4 months in American oak barrels. These aren’t just any old barrels though; they once housed artisanal apple brandy cider from the Michel Jodoin cider mill, made from the fruit of the neighbouring Rougemont orchards.

The individual that the original and this special edition ale are brewed in honour of is the Jesuit missionary Father Jacques Buteux. He first landed in Quebec City in 1634 as the first evangelical missionary for the area, and was soon sent on to the Trois-Pistoles region. However in 1652 he met a grisly demise at the hands of an Iroquois ambush, and his body was cast into what became known as “The Devil’s Hole”, which is also what this brewery borrows its name from.

Le Trou du Diable was what the local inhabitants called a large watery vortex at the foot of Shawinigan Falls, which is said to be bottomless and impossible to fish anyone out who is unfortunate enough to fall in. The indigenous natives considered it an abode of evil spirits, and the folklore of the subsequent Catholic settlers came to consider it as something of a vacation spot for the devil to hide and get away from the world at times. Before he arrived in the New World Father Buteux had learned the art of brewing from spending time with some Trappiste monks, and because his body was never recovered it is thought that he spends eternity now making beer in order to help keep the devil sedate and distracted.

This is a beer that will demand the proper glassware in order to get the most out of it. A tulip glass if you have one, a large snifter otherwise or a large red wine glass as a last resort. Some chill on it will help you enjoy it as well, so give it about a 10 minute head start out of the fridge to pop open the bottle.

The appearance is a bit rustic, with an amber body and a nearly opaque haze to it; expect a spongy white head that will rapidly recede. Then there’s an aroma reminiscent of a farmhouse ale, presenting a sharp acidity along with notes of wood and cidery apples. However things balance out greatly in the flavour. There’s mild caramel malt with some toasted character up front, bittersweet spicy acidity from the yeast, finishing with wood and a hint of apples. The aftertaste is surprisingly clean. Medium-full mouthfeel, smooth yet well-carbonated, providing a mild alcohol warmth.

Duck, pheasant, and other game fowl are the first types of dishes that come to mind when attempting to pair this unique beer with some food. Other types of game meat would also be good considerations. Smoked fish and meats as well. For something on the lighter side try a salad of baby mixed greens and earthy mushrooms tossed in a balsamic red wine vinaigrette.

The next steps in the cooler:

In-Style:
Hitachino Nest red Rice Ale
Mikkeller USAlive!
Lagunitas A Little Sumpin’ Wild

Lateral Steps:
Dominus Vobiscum Lupulus
Unibroue La Fin Du Monde
Corsendonk Abbey Pale Ale

For The Adventurous:
Cantillon Iris
Duchesse De Bourgogne
Petrus Aged Pale

Nk’Mip Cellars (Pronounced in-ka-meep) is North America’s first Aboriginal owned and operated winery.  (On the map to the left it is number 64 at the bottom centre).  It is located at the most southerly point of the Okanagan Valley. It overlooks Osoyoos Lake.  We have spoken to many people who have visited the winery and they have told us that it has some of the most incredible scenery in that whole region.  On one side you have a natural desert and then to contrast you have the lush green vineyards.  The land in that region of the Okanagan that is owned by the Osoyoos Band and it spans 32,000 acres.  1,155 acres of that is planted under vine.  Some is managed directly by Nk’ Mip and some is leased.  The plan is to have another 100 - 200 acres planted over the next 12 months.

The 18,000 square foot winery was designed by Robert Mackenzie, an architect from Penticton.  Mr. Mackenzie has also designed four other wineries in the region.  Nk’ Mip Cellars has the capacity to produce 18,000 cases of wine per year.  With 60% being red and 40% being white.  Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Riesling are the varieties planted at the Nk’ Mip Vineyard and the vineyard adjacent to the winery.  They not only produce single varietal wines, but also a Meritage and a special Riesling Icewine.  They are dedicated to making premium VQA wines.

Nk’Mip Cellars is part of the Osoyoos Indian Bands long-term plan. The winery was the second phase of a $25 million Nk’Mip project that includes:

• The Patio at Nk’Mip, a seasonal outdoor restaurant located in the winery. The Patio is open from May through October offering Aboriginal-inspired cuisine
• The Nk’Mip Campground and RV Park, which was the first phase, and is now, an all-season facility
• Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre,
• Sonora Dunes, an executive nine-hole golf course, and
• Spirit Ridge Vineyard Resort & Spa, which includes 226 luxurious suites and villas, Sonora Desert Spa, conference facilities, outdoor pool, hot tub & fitness facilities, and a gourmet restaurant - Passatempo, The Market.

The team of winemakers made up of Randy Picton, Justin Hall and Aaron Crey are very dedicated to their craft.  Make sure you check out their bios.

Winery: Nk’ Mip Cellars
Location: Osoyoos, British Columbia
Blend: Chardonnay
Tasting: Wednesday, April 6, 2011 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m

This wine was fermented in stainless steel tanks and although it has oak aging, only 40% was aged in French oak barrels for 10 months with the balance being aged in stainless steel.   This means that the wine was able to “retain a crisp, fruit forward flavour with a smooth finish.”

This wine has received a few accolades along the way:

• Silver - All Canadian Wine Championship - 2010
• Silver - SanFrancisco Wine Competition - 2010

BCLCB says:  “Driven by fruit, the peach, apple and pear flavours combine with winemaking dexterity to build a powerful wine with great length.  Notes of honeycomb, butter and mineral…”

Food Pairing:

Crab Cakes; Provolone Cheese; Pork Tenderloin in Cream Sauce

CSPC:     626408
Price:

$20.99 (Minus Winesday 10% discount.)

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Winery: Nk’ Mip Cellars
Location: Osoyoos, British Columbia
Blend: Merlot
Tasting: Wednesday, April 6, 2011 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

I think Merlot is given a bad rap.  People say things like…’ well it isn’t big like a Cab’.  You know what?  That’s right.  It isn’t a Cabernet Sauvignon and although it goes with nice red meat dishes like Cabernet it is totally and completely different.  I think the big bold Cabernets and wonderful, don’t get me wrong.  The beautiful fruit and the velvet finish that you can get on Merlot can be just heavenly too.  The word velvet is key.  I say quite often that for me, when you are sipping a nice Merlot it should give you the same sense as the touch of soft velvet on your fingertips.  Now that’s just me, of course.

This is what the winemakers have to say about this lovely wine:  “This wine was aged for 18 months in a combination of French and American oak. It weaves intricate flavours of plum, cassis, and fresh tobacco that layer harmoniously with subtle clove and cocoa leading into a concentrated toasty finish.”

Food Pairing:

Bison Ribs with Merlot BBQ Sauce; Shepherd’s Pie; Cantalet Cheese or Dorset Cheese

CSPC:     626416
Price:

$23.99 (Minus Winesday 10% discount.)

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Spain… ah lovely Spain.  We can’t wait for you to meet Maria!

Style: Aztec Stout
ABV: 7.5%
Presentation: Single 355 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Paddock Wood Brewing exclusive for Sherbrooke Liquor
Country: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

“I left my heart in Tenochtitlan!”

First off I must offer full disclosure here, I played a part in the production off this beer. The immodest version would be to proclaim that it was all my idea, yet the truth be told it was all one big fantastic collaboration, most of which I can’t in good conscience take credit for.

Back in 2009 I was struck with the inspiration to try combining a stout with the key ingredients that make up the old Aztec version of hot chocolate—it actually came to me in a dream, no fooling. Not wanting to miss out on all the interesting beers the store was marketing for itself, I pitched the idea to Sherbrooke Liquor. It took Sherbrooke’s brainchild Jim Pettinger less than a day to not only come up with the name for this Aztec Stout, but what would end up as the final label design as well.

The next step was to pass the idea by Stephen Cavan, the owner and head brewer of Saskatoon’s Paddock Wood Brewery, while he was visiting Edmonton in mid-January of 2010. In light of the success he had with his own Xocoatl Porter a few years ago we were well aware that Steve knew his way around brewing with cocoa, and from the moment I spoke to him he was interested in this new challenge.

What followed was for me to develop an original recipe from the ground up that could be easily transferred to a much larger commercial-sized volume. This included the brewing of two separate small test batches that I was able to produce with fellow Edmonton Homebrewers Guild member Dave Perry. Dave deserves equal recognition for his help formulating and fine-tuning this recipe, as well as for the use of his formidable homebrewing equipment.

This was the stage that took the longest of the whole process, but once we were content with the possibilities of our test batches the recipe data and samples of each trial were finally passed along to Paddock Wood in order to give them as good an idea as possible of what we were aiming for. The true finesse fell on Steve and his crew at the brewery to fine tune everything for a commercial-sized batch, while maintaining the balance of such an unconventional flavour profile.

Since my hands never touched the production of the final results, I think I can comment in a fairly unbiased manner by stating that even I was pretty floored and impressed with the finished product. So I must profess my own humble acknowledgments and appreciation to Paddock Wood for turning a whim into a reality. While I’m at it, a round of applause to John Keane for taking a hilariously gory concept and turning it into such an eye-catching label. And of course a deep bow to Jim at Sherbrooke for making it all happen in the first place.

With the anatomy of actually creating the beer out of the way, it’s time for a refresher course in the concept behind this exotic stout in the first place.

Archaeologists now have evidence dating back to the Olmec civilization of over 3000 years ago showing that a fermented cocoa beverage was being produced in the Mezo-American region. By 1400 A.D. a cocoa based drink was an essential part of the Aztec Empire’s culture. It was called Xocoatl, which means “bitter water”; a suitable label as it was described as a bitter, spicy, frothy drink. Xocoatl was considered a nourishing and fortifying health elixir, believed to prevent fatigue and to act as a potent aphrodisiac. Montezuma II was quoted describing it as: “The divine drink, which builds up resistance and fights fatigue. A cup of this precious drink permits a man to walk for a whole day without food.”

The original version was said to be made from water, roasted and ground cocoa seeds, corn meal, vanilla bean, achiote seeds and hot peppers. This was whipped up into a froth, and royalty would drink it from golden goblets. Eye-witness accounts claim that Emperor Montezuma would drink up to 50 cups of this a day, and after finishing each one would throw the empty gold vessel into the lake that surrounded his elevated palace. So much for recycling…..

The goal with Heartstopper was not to make an exact re-creation of this, but to take the three main flavour components of cocoa, vanilla and chilies, and marry them with a suitable stout base. We decided on the Foreign Stout sub-style, which was initially produced in the British Isles for export to hotter climates prior to refrigerated transport, and became a favoured style to brew in the Caribbean Islands in time. As a result this is a higher alcohol stout, sitting someplace between a regular English session stout and the bolder Russian Imperial Stouts, yet typically sweeter than both. An ideal backdrop to embrace and highlight the extra ingredients.

If you’re still with me after all that background story, it’s now time to check out the actual beer itself. I’ll let you know in advance that depending on what you’d prefer to accentuate most from this stout will directly affect the serving temperature you choose to start out with. Chilled straight out of the fridge and the following 20 minutes will offer a more crisp bitter cocoa character and will mute much of the heat from the pepper. The warmer it gets, and especially at room temperature, the heat from the pepper is far more pronounced. Then again, if you sip at it slowly, you’ll get the chance to experience it all as it changes with the temperature shift.

Your selection of glassware is fairly broad when it comes to this Aztec Stout. For the traditionalists it will sit right at home within a mug or a pint glass. However as a result of the higher alcohol content and the robust flavour profile some stemware such as a large brandy snifter or oversized red wine glass will offer a bit more of a swanky presentation. And for the beer geeks in the crowd with a collection of Belgian glassware, this would be a great time to pull out one of your tulip glasses.

Once this Stout has been transferred to your glass of preference, you’ll encounter a dark dense brown body, not quite black, and it will exhibit bright garnet highlights when the glass is held to direct light. A loose creamy mocha head will crown it as it slowly settles. Some spicy heat is present in the aroma, balanced with some rich dark cocoa, mild toasted and roasted malts, with hints of vanilla and milky sweetness. Dry cocoa and sweet chocolate blend in the flavour, with some heat rising up in the middle coupled with some mild earthy vanilla. The finish peaks with bittersweet cocoa, along with the spicy heat of the pepper present in lieu of what you would normally expect from hops otherwise for balance. It’s a medium-full mouthfeel with a smooth soft texture and low carbonation that transports this all across your palate.

There should be no surprise at all when my initial suggestions for food pairings with Heartstopper Stout turn out to be Mexican cuisine. From traditional dishes like chicken or turkey with mole sauce, savoury pork carnitas, or tamales; to more Tex-Mex variations of enchiladas, spicy beef burritos, or even a simple serving of corn tortilla chips with your favourite zesty salsa. Cajun cooking is another recommendation along those lines, such a pan blackened chicken or fish, jambalaya, or a bowl of dirty rice with slices of chorizo. For those who genuinely enjoy their spice and heat, this is a beer to pair with a serious madras curry—oh, it won’t help counteract any heat at all, but is bold enough to keep up to the intensity of that dish. Lamb and game meat would also pair very well without managing to overwhelm this Aztec Stout. And if there’s still room for dessert (or you were saving yourself for it!), then bring on the cheesecake! Here’s a stout that will not only compliment, but also not back down from the richness of a chocolate or blueberry cheesecake, leaving you with the delicious quandary of which is more flavoursome.

The next steps in the cooler:

Also From Sherbrooke:
Sherbrooke Shamrock
Bad Hare Day
Chocolate Cherry Ostiarius
Neapolean Neapolitan Stout
Aaiieeeeeeeeee Caramba!
Van Helsing’s All Natural Mouthwash
Glen Sherbrooke
Ochsner’s 1905 Alberta Porter

Also from Paddock Wood:
606 IPA
Bête Noire
Czech Mate
Black Cat Lager
London Porter

Some Mexican Beers:
Corona Extra
Dos Equis Special Lager
Dos Equis XX
Pacifico Clara
Sol Lager
Negra Modelo

Other Stouts:
Jamaica Stout
DDC Aphrodisiaque
DDC Péché Mortel
Half Pints Stir Stick Stout
St-Ambroise Oatmeal Stout
Yukon Midnight Sun Espresso Stout
Old Rasputin Imperial Russian Stout
Rogue Chocolate Stout
Young’s Double Chocolate Stout
Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout
Amber’s Kenmount Road Chocolate Stout