“Old World inspired. Artisan winemaking. Handcrafted with a minimalist philosophy. Township 7 is British Columbia’s only urban and rural winery - with locations in the picturesque Fraser and Okanagan Valleys.  Our sustainably farmed, classic French vinifera vineyards are low yield and reflect the terroir in which they are grown. Our wines are meant to be enjoyed with friends and family.”[1] That kind of says it all.  With the production of some wines being as little as 55 cases (Seven Stars Sparkling) and as many as 1639 cases (Merlot), this truly is a small handcrafted producer.  You don’t have to be big to make great wine.   This is proven time and time again.

Famed Master of Wine and world-renowned wine writer and reviewer, Jancis Robinson, said this about Township 7:  “Certainly the wines show quite extraordinary directness of fruit; they almost punch you between the eyes with their frankness. And, like the wines of the deserts of eastern Washington to the south, they all have good natural acidity thanks to the Okanagan’s routinely cool desert nights.”[2]

Mike Raffan is the man at the helm.  Mike had a successful career in the restaurant business for about 30 years prior to pursuing his passion for wine and purchasing Township 7 almost 6 years ago.  (The winery itself was opened 12 years ago by Corey and Gwen Coleman.)  Bradley Cooper, Township 7’s winemaker, joined the winery the year prior to Mike.

Bradley started his career in the Okanagan at Hawthorne Mountain Winery.  From there he went to New Zealand and back up to Washington State before joining Township 7 in 2005.  The 2011 season was not the best year.  We spoke with an Okanagan winemaker this morning who said that they thought 2010 was not the best and then 2011 came around.  So what happens to fruit that doesn’t quite cut it for wine.  In a conversation with ‘Cuisine & Company’ in October of 2011, Bradley said that the grapes that were unsuitable for making wine were donated to Critter Care Wildlife Society and were gladly consumed by injured/orphaned bears and other wildlife.

Township 7 Winery is also involved with the arts community in a very special project.  Mike Raffan partnered with Robb Dunfield who is a Cloverdale, B.C. artist. Robb’s painting “Visions of Possibilities” was the artwork used on the label of the Dunfield Collection wine (a Meritage made with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc).  Robb is a ventilator-dependent quadriplegic.  He mouth-painted Visions in a labour intensive, three-year process! There were only 200 cases of this special wine released and we are sad to say that none of it was available in Alberta.  However, we are happy to tell you that ‘partial proceeds from the wine will be donated to the Rick Hansen Foundation, in support of spinal cord research.’

We think it is about time that we try these wines.

Township 7 - 7 Blanc

Location: Okanagan, British Columbia, Canada
Blend: Gewurztraminer 45%, Pinot Gris 41%, Muscat Ottonel 14%
Tasting: Wednesday, January 25, 2012 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m

With Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat Ottonel in the mix, you know that this is going to be a flavourful wine.  It is a touch off dry, but it has some nice acidity to go along with it.

Township 7 Tasting Notes:

“Off dry and exotic with tangerine citrus notes, pear and lychee in the nose. The taste is of pears, peach, mandarin orange, hints of walnut and some tropical spice. The finish lingers with yellow raisin and fig.”

Food Pairing:

Tuna Maki; Barbeque Pork on Rice (Kow Moo Dang)

CSPC:                   114553
Winesday Price:

$19.13 (Includes Winesday 10% discount)

Regular Price:

$21.25

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Township 7 Merlot

Location: Okanagan, British Columbia, Canada
Blend: Merlot 88%, Cabernet Sauvignon 9%, Cabernet Franc 3%
Tasting: Wednesday, January 25, 2012 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

This Merlot was recently given a Bronze Medal and was named one of the best merlots at the Wine Access 2011 Canadian Wine Awards.  No small feat with over 70 entries and only 38 medals.

The winery says:

“Rich plum, chocolate shavings and spiced berry in the nose. Dried cherry, cola and leather in the palate. Superb finish with hints of exotic spice.  Great early structure.”

Now that we have some relatively mild weather, it is time to barbeque, my friends.  Well… not barbeque my friends… oh you know what we mean.

Food Pairing:

  Grilled Beef & Mushroom Burger;  Slow-Cooker Hearty Beef Stew

CSPC:                   735474
Winesday Price:

$21.60 (Includes Winesday 10% discount)

Regular Price:

$24.00

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Next week it is:  Aussie Aussie Aussie… Oi! Oi! Oi!

[2] www.township7.com

What says celebration like bubbles?  Well, aside from bubbles with chocolate and strawberries… nothing!

We are doing strawberries, chocolate and and bubbles this week, but with a twist!  We are tasting Früli Strawberry beer and Amber’s Brewing Kenmount Road Chocolate Stout.  So I guess you could call this “Beers-day”.  No matter what you have heard, us winos like a brewsky too!

Producer: Brouwerij Huyghe
Location: Ghent, Belgium
Tasting: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

Früli is a Strawberry beer.  Yup.  You read it correctly.  If you have never tried this wonderful brew, hopefully this article will bring your attention to it and you will buy a bottle or ten.  Now, there are those who would say that this is a lady’s beer.  Mind you those people are missing a few of their front chompers these days!  What the heck does that mean, anyway… lady’s beer.   Richard and I were doing an Oktoberfest event a while back and we had this as one of the brews.  Well, it was a real hit.  Now there were some women who enjoyed it, but a good number of the imbibers were, in fact, gentlemen.

This scrumptious beer is Belgian in ancestry.  It is a Strawberry White (Wheat) Beer that has been fermented with 30% pure Strawberries.  Long before the discovery of hops, the Belgians were brewing their libations with fruit.  Früli is made with water, hops, malt, yeast and Strawberries.  The alcohol is very reasonable coming in at 4.1%.  There are no additives or preservatives either.

Here is the trick to enjoying this beer once you get it home from the store.  If you look at the bottom of the bottle, you will notice sediment.  It is the wonderful strawberry bits that you are seeing.  Hold the bottle in both of your hands and gently roll it around and back and forth so that the strawberry mixture is blended back into the brew.  Don’t shake it… or you will be left with a not so wonderful surprise when you open it.  Yes this would go great with desert, but we would be surprised if you didn’t enjoy it all on its own.

CSPC:                   714841
Winesday Price:

$3.15 (Includes Winesday 10% discount)

Regular Price:

$3.50

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Kenmount Road Chocolate Stout

Producer: Amber’s Brewing
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Tasting: Wednesday, January 4, 2011 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

“Amber’s Brewing Company is about the creative use of natural flavours in our beers and craft coolers, while being socially and environmentally conscious.  Amber’s is about family, friends, locally made products and brewing the best beer and craft coolers possible.  Amber’s is about being unique and proud of it.  Amber’s is about a lot of things but mostly we are about brewing incredibly hand-crafted beverages.”[1]

Richard and I first met Jim Gibbon of Amber’s Brewing at SIP at Capital Ex a few or more years ago.  We were both taken with the passion that this gent has for what he does.  It just completely oozed out of him.  So many times we had planned to go to the brewery, which is located on the southside of Edmonton off 99^th Street.  Well this was the week to make the visit.  Richard was unfortunately not able to make this trip with me.  I had the opportunity of tasting some chocolate barley and I have to say it was mighty fine stuff.  You can positively get the chocolate taste from it as well as some coffee ground undertones.  It was pretty good to munch on, I must say.

Kenmount Road Chocolate Stout poured its first drops in the fall of 2008.  Before we go any further, I have to be honest here.  The name is what caught me on this Chocolate Stout.  Although the name is what drew me in, the taste is what made me want more.  Oh my… the chocolate.  It is true that I am a wee bit of a stout fan, but I am also from St. John’s Newfoundland and Labrador.  Kenmount Road is a main drag in St. John’s that leads to the outskirts of the city, mainly the communities of Paradise and Mount Pearl and beyond.  The first brew-master at Amber’s Brewing was also a Newfoundlander and he was from Mount Pearl.  I like the name.  It has a bit of a ring to it.

This is how Amber’s describes this beer:  “This luscious stout pours with a velvety chocolate colour and finishes with a medium density foamy brown head.  The complex brew begins with a sweet taste which gives way to a subtle bitterness as it dissolves into malty, molasses elements before finally fading into a lingering chocolate tones.”

CSPC:                   736230
Winesday Price: 

$12.59/6 pk
(Includes Winesday 10% discount)

Regular Price:

$13.99/6 pk

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

We are back enjoying wine again next week.  We hope you enjoyed our version of Strawberries and Chocolate!

Style: Baltic Porter
ABV: 9.5%
Presentation: Single 355 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Paddock Wood Brewing Co. exclusive for Sherbrooke Liquor
Country: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Before I go any further we’ll start off with a little bit of a phonetics lesson. The proper way to pronounce the goddess that this beer is named after is Rah-Goo-TEE-Nay. Sound it out, even say it out loud a few times to get familiar with it, as that’s the sound I’d like you to associate with every time I mention Ragutiene. It takes a bit of practice, as it even did for me in the beginning, for the spelling of this name seems a bit counter-intuitive to its actual pronunciation.

So then, Ragutiene is the first release of a 12 beer series dedicated to the memory of beer gods from around the world, stemming from the beginning of recorded history and onwards. There are more than 12 deities of malted merriment that have been worshipped at one time or another, and many more whose name has been forgotten under the dust and debris of the past. However these 12 were chosen as being the most diverse selection to represent such a group, some were also the most interesting from cultures that had more than one god affiliated with beer, and certainly were selected for having the most information available about them.

Well, with the exception of Ragutiene when it comes to that last point. She was worshipped by the Slavic and Baltic cultures of Eastern Europe as their own personal goddess of beer. Her husband Ragupatis was known as the god of fermentation, the process essential for the production of beer. Between the two of them they represented the beginning and the end of the brewing process. Sadly this is all that’s really remembered or mentioned about them anymore, and we’re fortunate to even have these basics available today, thanks to small groups of Lithuanian neo-pagans.

Much of this absence has to do with the fact that these old Eastern European cultures passed down oral traditions from generation to generation, with no written language to provide a back-up to the unavailability of these living libraries. With the development and spreading of monotheism throughout this part of the world much information of former traditions and details about these old gods started to disappear through both attrition and focused assimilation. Due to this it’s a wonder we have any information left at all, let alone names and what these deities represented and lorded over.

The brewing of all 12 beers for this unique series has singularly been taken up by the Paddock Wood Brewery of Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. These wouldn’t be the first brews they have produced for Sherbrooke, the first being the Heartstopper Aztec Stout, however it certainly marks the first of such a large and ongoing collaboration. For Ragutiene a Baltic Porter was developed to represent this goddess, with an addition of black currants and some sour cherries. Take note that this beer is not being brewed strictly to style by any means, but is a chance to experiment and create a unique modern homage to what is one of the far more obscure of the ancient beer gods.

Glassware selection for this intense beer offers a few selections. While the traditional pint glass or mug will do just fine, due to the higher alcohol content and robust flavour profile an oversized red wine glass or large snifter will help accentuate the nuances. A tulip glass would be an excellent choice as well if you own some dedicated beer glassware. Cellar temperature is the ideal way to serve Ragutiene, or allow it to warm 20 minutes to half an hour after removing from the fridge.

You’ll be presented with a very deep opaque dark brown porter, which can easily be mistaken for black due to its density. The retention is also steady, with a tall spongy tan head. Expect to find a sharp espresso character prominent on the nose, along with dry cocoa, sweet mocha, and some tart black berries. The warming alcohol content is present throughout in the flavour. Dry burnt malt starts off the flavour providing notes of espresso and charcoal, there’s some dark chocolate present, along with mild earthy, leafy hops that can easily be missed due to the bitterness of the dark roasted malt. The finish contains a quick spike of tart and mildly sweet earthy berries that make a short yet valiant attempt at balancing the intense malt. While the level of carbonation is low the mouthfeel is medium-bodied with a slick, silky texture.

Since Baltic Porters in general are rather complex and intense, food pairings tend to require some extra forethought. Smoked or grilled meats are a good start, as is game meat or goose. For a side to any of them consider some roasted sweet potatoes to match the intensity and counterbalance the roasty bitterness of the Porter. If comfort food is your racket serve up some hearty stew or braised ribs. An earthy cheese option of Camembert or Fontain will do for a light nibble. It’s also fine to skip forward to dessert as well,

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
606 IPA
Bête Noire
Black Cat Lager
Bramling Cross Bitter
Czech Mate
London Porter

From Sherbrooke:
Heatseeker
KGB
Heartstopper
Bad Hare Day
Chocolate Cherry Ostiarius
Neapoleon Stout
Van Helsings All Natural Mouthwash
Sherbrooke Shamrock
Ochsner’s 1905 Alberta Porter
Sherbrooke Aaiieeeeeeeeee Caramba!

In-Style:
LTM Porter Baltique
Baird Kurofune Porter
Garrison Grand Baltic Porter
Okanagan Old English Porter
Half Pints Pothole Porter

Lateral Steps:
Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout
DDC Péché Mortel
Hitachino Nest Espresso Stout
Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout
Black Albert
Mikkeller George

Wha-cha at by’?  Newfoundland and Labrador… otherwise known as my home sweet home.  Richard is an honourary NL’er, because he married me.  No, there was no kissin’ a cod or a puffin’s arse involved (Okay by’s.  No bloody jokes here, okay?) I guess there has to be an upside when you marry someone a little off the wall.  I have lived in Alberta for some 25 years now, but as anyone will tell you, when you are ‘from’ somewhere else, ‘home is always home’.   My home town is St. John’s (click play)

Okay, so let’s get one thing straight ‘the rock’, as it is affectionately called, is not all rock.  Although, ‘tis true that there are miles and miles of rocky shorelines, we also have sandy beaches, scads of freshwater lakes (good for troutin’ and havin’ a wee dip), codfish (although not too much lately), wild berries galore like blueberries, partridgeberries (a.k.a. lingonberries) bakeapples (a.k.a cloudberries) and tons more (we make wine out of those berries).  We have smiles and laughs galore along with a wicked sense of humour.  Scenery… the most amazing scenery.  Did I mention moose?  Holy cow have we got moose.  If my memory serves me correctly I believe there is just shy of 510,000 people and 100,000 moose.  Now I could be off a smidge or two.  Oh Rex Murphy!  Did you know this beguiling brilliant whit is a native of NL? Allan Hawco.  Do you know who Allan is?  Allan is the co-creator of The Republic of Doyle on CBC.  (Season 3 is coming up in January 2012)  It is a great show and shoudn’t be missed.       Like all who are proud of their homes, I could go on and on and for those of you who know me really well, you know I am not kidding.  As I say quite often, ‘I could talk the paint off the wall’.  Richard is always wondering if there is an ‘off’ button… just kidding.

Now I am going to bring up cod (known in Newfoundland simply as ‘fish’).  What in heaven’s name does cod have to do with rum?  Quite a lot, actually.  If it wasn’t for the abundance of cod way back when, there wouldn’t have been any trading done for the ol’ black rum.  Let’s get on with it.

WHAT IS RUM, ANYWAY?

It all starts with sugar cane, which itself has a storied history.   Sugar cane is often associated with Brazil, Barbados, Jamaica, Demerara Guyana, Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, India, Asia and many other beautiful places.   It has been said that Christopher Columbus brought sugar cane to the Caribbean islands during his second visit to the Americas.  It became a very important part of the economy for the islands, and for many it still is today.  Sugar was so important in Europe centuries ago, that at one time almost one-third of the economy was based on the product.  Who says that sugar is not addictive!!!

Sugar cane is actually a type of perennial grass.  It needs a temperate or tropical type of climate to thrive.  Once the sugar cane reaches 10 - 12 feet in height, it is cut (manually or by machine) and then crushed to obtain the sugar cane juice.

Once the juice has been captured, it is fermented to make a sugar cane wine that is called ‘vesou’.  When the fermentation is completed, the ‘vesou’ is distilled.  Although most do not use this method, it is one of the practices in the French West Indies.  The rum made from this process is called ‘Rhum Agricole’.

The second manner of production is to cook the juice and reduce it down to syrup.  This syrup is also a sweetener, but may be fermented and distilled to produce rum.  The advantage to a distiller to use the syrup is that it gives the producer a number of the characteristics of the sugar cane juice, but the syrup may be used at different times of the year, not just at harvest time.

The final way is to turn the juice into sugar and molasses (molasses is a by-product of the sugar making process).    The sugar is sold as a sweetener and the molasses is used for making the rum.  Making rum from molasses is by far the most common method.

There are a lot of different types of rum are available.  There are:  Light (White), Amber (Gold), Dark, Aged, Spiced, Overproof and Flavoured.

Now you would think that with rum being such a popular spirit, it would probably have some kind of definition and regulations.  Unlike Scotch Whisky and Cognac, rum is as free as the wind and has no regulations stating what one can do or not do.

HOW RUM GOT ITS NAME

“One theory is that when cane juice is boiled under vacuum, sugar crystals are formed and separated from the residual molasses. This sucrose-rich brown syrup mixed with water eventually ferments and becomes diluted alcohol. The raw fiery alcohol, was said to ‘light a blaze’ and provoke unruly rumbustious behavior.”

“Another popular theory is that “rum” came from the genus name for sugar cane, Saccharum, a member of the Plume Grass family. However, various romantics propose that the name ‘rum’ is derived from the rumbullion, rumpus and rumbustion that were essential parts of the drinking experience. Either way, experts fail to agree on the origin of the word.”[1]

SCREECH

Producer: Newfoundland & Labrador Liquor Corp.
Location: St. John’s, Newfoundland & Labrador
Alcohol: 40%
Tasting: Wednesday, November 2, 2011 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

Where did Screech come from?  Back in the 1700’s a few of da by’s sailed off to the Caribbean/West Indies with a boat load of salt cod which they would use to trade.  Amazingly, on their way back to Newfoundland they just happened to have numerous barrels of rum in their ballasts.  Strictly to offset weight issues on the boat I am sure.  No drinking was done (nudge nudge).   Back in those days, the rum was not the mild 40% that it is today.  The vapours coming out of the bottle were significantly higher than 80 proof and they stayed that way for many a year until the government got involved.   As they say on the Screech website until government took control of the liquor trade in the early 20^th century “the Jamaican rum that was eventually to be known as Screech was a mainstay of the traditional Newfoundland diet.”  Yes ‘diet’.  You read it right.  After all, what beverage goes hand in hand with Newfoundland better than rum?  Nothing.

Oh there is a lot to say about this rum.   The folklore about the name, for one.  It gets a bad rap, for two.  And… it is not swish, for three.  Let’s tackle this one by one.

The name:

Now if you know any Newfoundlanders you will know that they can tell a story or two … or three (or in my case ten).  Aside from our sense of humour, we are surely known for spinnin’ a yarn (Newfanese for ‘telling a story’).  The story about how Screech got its name goes something like this:  Screech may have continued indefinitely as a nameless rum except for the influx of American servicemen to Newfoundland during World War II.

As the story goes, the commanding officer of the first detachment was taking advantage of Newfoundland hospitality for the first time and was offered a drop of rum as an after dinner drink.”  Well after smacking back a bit of the rum this unholy scream came out of his body.  Many heard from miles around, so the legend goes.  An American Sargeant came to the door and wanted to know what the “ungodly screech” was.[2] Hence… well you can see where it is going from here.

I am not sure where the bad rap started, but I can tell you that Screech is a delicious rum.  Sure you can drink it straight, but it also makes a great rum for mixing and, of course, celebrating.  Don’t believe what you hear.  Come and try it for yourself.  You will see why it won a gold medal at the International Rum Festival in 2003 for ‘taste’.  You will be pleasantly surprised.

I cannot tell you how many times have I heard “no I don’t want to drink that swish.”  Well, it is not ‘swish’.  Now I am acquainted with swish, so I know the difference.  Swish is made from old rum (or other liquor) barrels.  There is always a wee bit of rum left over in the barrels and then you add hot water and let the barrel sit for a bit and then you bottle the liquor.  That is swish.  Screech is far from that, let me tell you.   Come down an’ ‘av a drop of da stuff, me son.  We’ll toast to your health and the health of everyone you know.

CSPC:     4622
Price:

$ 27.99 (Minus 10% Winesday discount)

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice.

Old Sam Demerara Rum

Producer: Newfoundland & Labrador Liquor Corp.
(for Edward Young & Co. of London & Liverpool, England)
Location: St. John’s, Newfoundland & Labrador
Alcohol: 40%
Tasting: Wednesday, November 2, 2011 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

Old Sam.  Boy this rum brings back many a good memory for me.  When I first moved to Alberta I was not able to buy Old Sam.  I would get some from home, but when I would run out, I had a hard time finding a substitute.  My sister and I have a difference of opinion on which regular demerara rum is our favourite.  Mine is Old Sam and Mary Ellen’s is another one, which shall remain nameless.  Sorry sis.

Demerara rum is known for having a lot of flavour and that wonderful sweetness that sets it apart from others.  It is named after Demerara County and Demerara River in Guyana.  Have you ever seen Demerara Sugar or Demerara Style Sugar on the store shelves?  They are known for producing a high quality and high flavour sugar.  This rum is made from molasses, which is the byproduct of sugar.  And when you have molasses made from Demerara sugar, well, you know you have a winner.

This rum is made from a blend of rums where the youngest is quite young, but the oldest is as old as 25 years.  Old Sam has a very distinctive taste and flavour.  Oh, the froth.  We can’t forget about the signature Old Sam froth.  Someone said to me once that when this rum mixes with cola, it gets a head on it like Guinness.  Well, I wouldn’t say that, but it does pour with a good head.  It is said to be the “magical reaction between Old Sam’s secret recipe and the carbonation in the soda”.  Man, just describing it I can taste it.

CSPC:     50336
Price:

$ 27.99 (Minus 10% Winesday discount)

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice.

Newfoundlanders’ White Demerara Rum

Producer: Newfoundland & Labrador Liquor Corp.
Location: St. John’s, Newfoundland & Labrador
Alcohol: 40%
Tasting: Wednesday, November 2, 2011 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

There are those who say that white rum isn’t really rum.  Well, I am a rum drinker and although I do not drink white rum as much as dark rum, this white Newfoundlander’s Rum took me by surprise.  In a good way.  I found it had some body and richness to it that I was not expecting.  It has an overtone of sweetness to it as well.  I know many people use white rum as a mixer, but I found this one to be pleasant enough to just sip.  It is a blend of Carribbean rums and is sure to be enjoyed by many… not just Newfoundlanders.

The artwork on the label is a collection of artwork by David Lloyd Blackwood C.M., who is a fellow Newfoundlander and worldwide acclaimed artist.  Aside from the rum inside, what is really spiffy about the packaging of this rum is the labeling.  There are numerous labels featuring Mr. Blackwood’s art.  When you check out the Newfoundlander’s Rum website, you will see the various  labels used.  We have just two of them shown here on the blog.  There may be other products that have this unique way of marketing, but I cannot think of one at the moment.

CSPC:     738625
Price:

$30.99 (Minus 10% Winesday discount)

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice.

Next week Richard and I are heading off to Argentina.

[2] www.screechrum.com

Style: : Belgian Strong Dark Ale
ABV: 9%
Presentation: Single 750 ml brown caged and corked bottle / 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Unibroue
Country: Chambly, Quebec, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Here is the dark beauty from Unibroue’s regular line up of beers. I think I fell in love with Trois Pistoles the first time I tried if, and even if that’s not the case (it was quite some time ago!) I was still seduced by it fairly quickly. Trois Pistoles has been in production since 1997 after all.

This self-proclaimed Abbey Style Strong Ale is named after a small Quebecois village that has been sitting on the south shore of the St. Lawrence River for over 300 years. Trois Pistoles translates into “Three Coins”, which as legend has it is a name derived from the exclamation of a sailor who accidently dropped his silver goblet overboard into the river. He was pretty choked that he lost his 3 pistoles (a common form of Spanish currency of the time) that he had paid for the drinking vessel.

As with all Unibroue offerings there is a story behind the image on the label. This one in particular is a famous one from the village of Trois Pistoles. Regarding the church in question on the label it was said that the villagers of the time could not agree on the right spot to start building it. One hot summer day in August they woke up to find a perfectly square block of snow sitting on a particular site in the middle of town. Taking this as a divinely ordained decision they decided to start construction at that location.

To maintain the supernatural tone of the church’s origin one of the local bishops summoned the devil himself in the form of a large black stallion, in order to assist in hauling the large stone bricks that were chosen to assemble the church from. A holy blessed bridle was used to keep this momentarily benevolent devil steed in check and complacent for the industrious task at hand. Day after day this supernatural black horse toiled, delivering each one of the formidable building blocks that went into this structure of worship. However before this beast could deliver the final stone someone accidently removed the holy bridle, and it bolted off immediately, never to be seen again. No one was strong enough to move that final brick, and to this day the church in Trois Pistoles stands there missing that last brick in its structure.

When executed properly this style, the Strong Belgian Dark Ale, can possess as much complexity of flavour as the finest of red wines. Even surpass them. As such an easily accessible example of this style, let alone a Canadian produced one, Trois Pistoles delivers the goods. Yet unlike a devil horse, it follows through to the end.

Stemware is the glass of choice to enjoy this dark ale from. A snifter, chalice or an oversized wine glass is what you’re aiming for, or a tulip glass if you own one. Slightly chilled will be the optimum temperature range for serving Trois Pistoles, in order to discover all it has to offer. Allow it to warm maybe 20-30 minutes, although if you can’t wait that long the flavours will still open up in time. This is a pretty big, bold beer that you’ll be sipping on rather than chugging, so there will be time enough one way or another.

While not quite as dark as the horse of legend or the one on the label, this offering from Unibroue pours out a deep cloudy walnut brown, and will show garnet highlights when held to direct light. Expect a frothy beige head. Some time spent focusing on the aroma will offer up rewards of cherry and Concord grape, dates, apple skins, caramel, dark bready malt, hints of chocolate, dark spice, and mild grassy, floral hops. After enticing you in, the flavour then serves a combination of caramel and bready malt, chocolate, dark spice, cherry and dark fruit, brown sugar, mild grassy hops, and a dry sherry-like alcohol warmth. There’s a medium-bodied mouthfeel to it, smooth yet dry, with a healthy level of carbonation.

While perfectly satisfying on its own, here is an ale that works overtime when served with food. Think big and bold, like hearty roasts and stews full of herbs and earthy flavours. Game meats as well. Caramelized grilled meat is also high on the list. Then there are strong and rich cheese varieties to keep in mind, the carbonation level of this beer will do a beautiful job scrubbing your tongue and palate while the flavour rises up to match the intensity. If dessert is in order then try this with some dark chocolate, rich chocolate cake, or a spice cake.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Blanche de Chambly
Chambly Noire
Don de Dieu
Éphémère
La Fin du Monde
La Terrible
Maudite

In-Style:
Chimay Blue
Trappistes Rochefort 8
Gulden Draak
Nostradamus
Brooklyn Local 2
Gouden Carolus Classic

Lateral Steps:
St. Bernardus Abt 12
Trappistes Rochefort 10
La Trappe Quadrupel
DDC Rigor Mortis Abt
Pannepot Grand Reserva
Ayinger Celebrator
DDC Péché Mortel
Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout
Rogue Imperial Stout
Black Albert
Mikkeller Black Hole

Style: English IPA
ABV: 6%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Yukon Brewing Company
Country: Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Some may remember the initial incarnation of this beer as the Snow Blind IPA for Sherbrooke Liquor that allowed Yukon Brewing to test the Alberta market for its reception of an India Pale Ale of their devising. It was an instance where all signs pointed to yes.

It didn’t take long for the locals to get restless either. The talented folks at Yukon Brewing had made some modifications to the Snow Blind recipe and were offering it directly from the brewery in growlers under the new name Ice Fog. For those reading who are unfamiliar with that term, a growler is a 1.9L glass jug (visualize a “moonshine” jug and you’re pretty close) that a customer can get draught beer filled with to take home, either from a brewery or a brewpub that offers the service.

While it’s great to be able to get fresh draught beer to take home straight from a brewery, there is however one stipulation: you need to have regular access to the source in question. So when the fans of Ice Fog in the Yukon managed to convince Yukon Brewing to finally bottle their favourite IPA for greater access and distribution, Alberta shared in this boon shortly after.

What makes this particular IPA stand out from most of the other North American-made hop bombs is its possession of balance. In that sense it immediately enters the realm of an English-style India Pale Ale, providing a solid malt backbone that waltzes pleasantly with the hop content, rather than being over-run and terrorized by those green cones of goodness. The result provides a great option for the uninitiated and the wary to get familiar with the India Pale Ale style without being completely overwhelmed by the inherent hops at first.

If you don’t wish to put much thought into glassware, then you’re in luck as your trusty pint glass has already saved the day in this case. Let it sit out about 10 minutes to allow the malt to open up a bit, although the hop content is ready to go no matter how chilled it is.

What you’ll encounter is a clear bright gold IPA with a short creamy off-white head. The aroma releases fruit esters from the yeast, floral, citrus and herbal notes from the hops, and toasted biscuity malt. This leads to the flavour delivering notes of sweet orange, mild toasty and caramel malt, with a blend of grassy, citrus and herbal hops—all well balanced. The mouthfeel is medium-bodied and quite smooth, finishing with a kick of carbonation.

The balance within this Yukon Ice Fog IPA opens up more food pairing options than you would normally have with lopsided hop-bomb. When it comes to pub style food you can close your eyes and point to practically anything on the menu. From burgers and sandwiches, salty and/or deep fried finger food (nachos, fries, spare ribs, even calamari), and of course the token platter of fish and chips. For cooking styles this beer will help you enjoyably explore the savoury and spicy dishes from Cajun, Indian, Thai, and Tex-Mex. Beyond that the malt will meld beautifully with grilled or roasted meats while the hops provide equally welcome herbal contrast.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Yukon Gold
Yukon Red
Midnight Sun Espresso Stout
Deadman Creek Cranberry Wheat
Discovery Honey IPA
Lead Dog Ale

In-Style:
Brooklyn East India Pale Ale
Samuel Smith’s India Ale
Belhaven Twisted Thistle IPA
Harviestoun Bitter & Twisted
Marston Old Empire

Lateral Steps:
Fuller’s ESB
Duchy Originals Organic English Ale
Propeller Extra Special Bitter
Wild Rose SOB
La Vache Folle ESB
Red Racer ESB

For The Adventurous:
Red Racer IPA
Lagunitas Hop Stoopid
Anchor Liberty Ale
Rogue XS Imperial Red
Lost Coast Indica IPA

Style: Extra Special Bitter
ABV: 5%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Yukon Brewing Company
Country: Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

The Yukon is a region with a history of rough and tumble pioneering trailblazers, and this is a beer that can rest easy in that sort of company. While it’s recently received a name change and a bit of a facelift, Yukon Brewing’s Discovery Honey E.S.B. hasn’t lost it approachability nor its edge as a result.

Formerly known as Discovery Fireweed Honey Ale, this was the first beer to be released by the brewery back in 1997 when it was originally known as the Chilkoot Brewing Company. That’s a pretty impressive pedigree, until you take into account that Discovery was the first beer commercially produced in the Yukon Territory since the end of Prohibition. It sort of puts things into a much grander perspective.

Discovery was re-brewed in 2007 to commemorate the 10th anniversary of Yukon Brewing, and they’ve kept it in their regular line-up since. It was in 2010 that they decided to rename it Discovery Honey E.S.B.

What makes this English Bitter so unique is the use of locally produced Fireweed honey, which is added with the hops during the boil in the production of this beer. Fireweed is a hardy plant with bright magenta blossoms that grows practically everywhere in the Yukon. No small surprise that such a ubiquitous plant is the official Territorial flower of the Yukon Territory. Fireweed honey is the clearest of the monofloral varietals, and is highly prized as a premium level product. It helps to add sweet, tangy, and bitter characteristics to Yukon’s E.S.B. from its own unique natural composition.

This style is one that is traditionally served in pint glasses or mugs, so let that knowledge set you free from having to dig around for other glassware. Allowing it to sit out for 10 or 15 minutes will allow the malt to open up a bit more, however as long as it’s not ice cold you’ll still experience most of the goodness it has to offer.

Discovery Honey E.S.B. greets you with a slightly hazed translucent amber hue, capped by a short creamy white head. The nose exhibits a medley of caramel and biscuit malt, some herbal honey and grassy hops. This is practically mirrored within the flavour profile, along with the addition of bready and toasted malt notes, and some herbal spiciness provided by a combination of the honey and the hops. Expect this all delivered by a medium-bodied mouthfeel with a slick texture and brisk carbonation.

With traditional English flair Yukon Brewing suggests a pairing of their E.S.B. with curried dishes. They go on to recommend salmon or poultry, along with cheeses such as Camembert, Feta, and Fontina. I would add to this list pasta dishes with a pesto base, plus Thai and Cajun cuisine. For more casual options the hops and carbonation will balance out salty pub food selections, living up to its tradition as a classic English pub style ale, yet with a Yukon twist.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Yukon Gold
Yukon Red
Midnight Sun Espresso Stout
Deadman Creek Cranberry Wheat
Ice Fog IPA
Lead Dog Ale

In-Style:
Fuller’s ESB
Duchy Originals Organic English Ale
Propeller Extra Special Bitter
Wild Rose SOB
La Vache Folle ESB
Red Racer ESB

Lateral Steps:
Fuller’s London Pride
Marston’s Pedigree
Amber’s Lunch Pail Ale
Alley Kat Full Moon Pale Ale
St-Ambroise Pale Ale
Lagunitas Censored

For The Adventurous:
Red Racer IPA
Lagunitas Hop Stoopid
Anchor Liberty Ale
Rogue XS Imperial Red
Lost Coast Indica IPA
He’Brew Bittersweet Lenny’s R.I.P.A.

Style: Fruit Ale
ABV: 5%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Alley Kat Brewing
Country: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

I admit that over the years I haven’t given Alley Kat’s Aprikat the credit it deserves. Originally marketed as a “beer cooler”, I deemed myself as not within its target demographic back when I started my journey into craft beer. Which was very close to when this fruit beer first hit the market. Oh sure, I never turned down a cold bottle of it when offered one, although it seems I never really went out of my way to seek it out. Some sort of “image” issue I suppose….

The thing is that I must be in the minority, as Aprikat is one of the top sellers for the Alley Kat Brewery, and has been for almost 15 years now. While not one of the original first 2 beers Alley Kat released back during their inception, Aprikat still made the scene within that first year.

The inspiration for Aprikat was actually Pyramid Brewery’s Apricot Ale, which Alley Kat owners Neil and Lavonne Herbst first tried at a pub down in Sandpoint, Idaho. It took them 6 months’ worth of sample batches and experiments to reach the version they were aiming for, which is very similar to the way it is to this day. Time grants the privilege of fine-tuning after all. Aprikat was the first seasonal release for Alley Kat, sold in 650 ml bottles, and received such a popular response that it soon entered the brewery’s regular line up in 6 packs.

An American Pale Wheat Ale style is used for the base of this fruit beer, made with the Alley Kat house ale yeast. This provides a light, sweet, crisp canvas that allows the apricot addition room to shine. Forget about artificial flavours or extracts, Alley Kat uses only apricot concentrate straight from the Okanagan.

This is a decent summer quencher, and can be served in any glassware of your choosing, from a pint glass to a white wine glass. Chilled is the way to go for a serving temperature, not iced cold, but certainly chilled. The fruit character is evident, and will get more intense as it slowly warms.

True to its name Alley Kat’s Aprikat presents itself as a hazed golden apricot hue, with a short lasting white head. There is an inviting aroma of apricot that is the dominant character, however you can also pick out some mild sweet wheat and bready malt as it warms. Okay, it’s not that complex, but the sweet fruity apricot steals the show in the flavour as well, although there is also some clean wheat and mild bready malt in the background, and light traces of floral hops on the finish. The mouthfeel is light with a good presence of carbonation to help quench.

Although the apricot character is most prominent, this is still a fairly light beer, which must be kept in mind while pairing with food. The book-end approach is a good one to keep in mind, sticking to the appetizers and desserts on both ends of a meal. Salad topped with crumbled mozzarella rather than dressing is a great place to start. Of course fruit-based desserts can’t be beat either, yet anything with a rich chocolate base may be too intense.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Alley Kat Amber
Charlie Flint’s Organic Lager
Full Moon Pale Ale
Olde Deuteronomy

Apricot Beers:
St-Ambroise Apricot Wheat Ale
Pyramid Apricot Ale
Cannery Apricot Wheat Ale
Chapeau Apricot Lambic

Other Fruit Beers:
Cannery Blackberry Porter
Unibroue Éphémère
Samuel Smith’s Organic Strawberry Fruit Beer
Lindemans Peche Lambic
Liefmans Cuvee-Brut
Wild Rose Wraspberry
Yukon Deadman Creek Cranberry Wheat
Pump House Blueberry Ale

Style: English Brown Ale
ABV: 5%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Alley Kat Brewing
Country: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

The Alley Kat Brewery is the oldest operating microbrewery here in Edmonton, clocking in at 16 years already at the writing of this, and the Alley Kat Amber Ale has been there from the very beginning. This beer was initially intended to be California Common style ale, however it didn’t seem to jive, so with a wise change of yeast strains the AK Amber was developed instead.

Probably the most confusing thing about this beer is the name. Although it’s called Amber (not “an” Amber), it’s actually modelled after the South English London-style of traditional Brown Ales. Not, in fact, an Amber style ale. It’s a common misconception, although it certainly doesn’t hamper this beer’s popularity. I once overheard brewery owner Neil Herbst comment that’s the problem when you name a beer after someone, especially when their name resembles an unrelated beer style. I never did find out who the eponymous Amber was though….

Back to the start of it all, this brown ale was one of the first 2 beers released by Alley Kat during its inception, and came in a 650 ml bottle before the brewery switched to 6 packs. The other founding beer that didn’t make the cut over the years was an unfiltered Wheat Ale. Perhaps Amber’s longevity stems from brown ales being such an approachable beer style, especially for people trying craft beer for the first time, or dabbling with ales after drinking nothing but cheaply made fizzy yellow lagers.

This particular style of Brown Ale is said to have originated in or around London, where the mineral-rich waters of the Thames River helped to accentuate the dark, toasty malts, yet kept the hops in check. The result exhibits a sweet malty beer with little to no bitterness. A mug or a pint glass will be perfect to sample this style in, and allowing it to warm 10-15 minutes or so will help draw out all the malty goodness.

If one were into forensics they could easily discern that this beer may have derived its name from its appearance alone. Alley Kat Amber indeed does present itself in a glass as a ruddy light brown, or more appropriately a deep amber hue. True to form the aroma offers sweet malt, caramel notes, some mild roast along with mild floral hops. What follows with the first sip is a warm embrace of rich sweet malt, notes of caramel, toast, and roast, and a mild yet balancing finish of floral, earthy hops. As moderation is the key to this style, even the mouthfeel stays at mid-range as medium-bodied with a moderate zip of carbonation.

Alley Kat Amber Ale is perfect local choice to match up with roast chicken or a beef pot roast with all the veggies, and pretty much whatever you choose to pull off the grill. Especially if you choose to pull off the grill some succulent ribs slathered in BBQ sauce. The folks at the brewery recommend a savoury antipasti platter, or pork chops sided with apples, onions and sweet potato.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Aprikat
Charlie Flint’s Organic Lager
Full Moon Pale Ale
Olde Deuteronomy

In-Style:
Wild Rose Brown
Samuel Smith’s Nut Brown Ale
Hockley Dark
Wellington County Ale
Garrison Nut Brown Ale
Mt. Begbie Tall Timber Ale

Lateral Steps:
Samuel Smith’s Famous Taddy Porter
Fuller’s London Porter
Paddock Wood London Porter
Hockley Black & Tan
Rogue Mocha Porter
Raasted Vinter
St-Ambroise Oatmeal Stout
Warsteiner Dunkel
Lobkowicz Baron

For The Adventurous:
DDC Péché Mortel
Unibroue Trois Pistoles
Brooklyn Monster Ale
St. Bernardus Abt 12
Half Pints Burly Wine

Style: Strong Barrel-Aged Ale
ABV: 18.5%
Presentation: Single 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Alley Kat Brewing Co. exclusive for Sherbrooke Liquor
Country: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Perhaps the only thing not twisted about this beer is the beer itself!

Glenda Sherbrooke is the result of aging the Alley Kat Brewery’s Olde Deuteronomy Barleywine in barrels that once held Glen Breton Rare Whisky from the Glenora Distillery. It turns out that the folks at Alley Kat were so impressed with the final result, that they opted to start releasing their own version of it next after this special Sherbrooke edition.

This left a little creative license open for Sherbrooke’s own maestro of mirth Jim Pettinger when it came to the label, as this would now only be a one-off release for the store. It’s questionable if it could be called a moment of clarity, however in the flash of an Ed Wood minute it was decided to turn Glenn on the label of Glenn Sherbrooke into Glenda. Perhaps it’s more of a convenient coincidence than a true homage to Ed Wood’s seminal classic Glen Or Glenda?, but one way or another it was decided to let Glenn’s freak flag fly.

To my knowledge, and after several search attempts, this is also the first beer label ever to sport a crossdresser on it. I’ll warn you in advance that a Google search to verify such a thing is not for the squeamish, and tends to get off-topic rather quickly. But never let it be said that I don’t put a thorough effort into tracking down as concise information as possible for you fine readers of KANPAI!

On the topic of trailblazing, Glenda Sherbrooke doesn’t stop there. It’s also a record-breaker by being the strongest beer to be bottled in Canada at this point in time. Even globally there isn’t a large amount of beer that clocks in at 18.5%, and amongst that crowd there aren’t many that are as easily approachable as this Whisky-barrel aged Barleywine. I have to admit that this is the smoothest beer of this alcohol strength that I have yet to try, it’s very deceptive what hides beneath that skirt, er, I mean behind that label, er, well, you know what I mean….

While smooth and approachable, it certainly doesn’t detract in matters of complexity either. Far from bonking you over the head with intensity, Glenda Sherbrooke reveals itself in symphonic waves and layers that force you to pay close attention to each sniff, and each sip. Don’t let the purse and the beard on the label fool you, there is a high degree of sophistication being offered in this beer.

So without any further ado it’s time to explore what this ground-breaking beer is all about. I would highly, highly recommend serving this extra strength Barleywine in a snifter type glass, or even a tulip glass if you own one. A pint glass if you absolutely must, or don’t own anything better to serve this in. For sure let it warm up before serving as well, cellar temperature will be optimum, so allow it to sit out between 20-40 minutes, depending on your level of patience.

Glenda Sherbrooke pours out a deep hazy brown colour, with a thin creamy brown head. In the aroma to discover are vinous and sherry-like notes, along with figs, dates, currants as well as some mild wood and pipe tobacco. You may encounter even more characteristics. With a complex beer such as this the experience is unique to each different person’s palate. Personally I picked up on flavours of wood, sweet liquor, tobacco, figs, cocoa nibs, carob nut, raisins, choke cherries, dry dark malt, hints of herbal hops and lingering traces of Whisky. Also a small amount of alcohol warmth to be noticed throughout. Expect a mouthfeel that is medium-bodied, with a chewy texture that finishes silky smooth, and low carbonation.

Certainly this big yet approachable beer is one that satisfies on its own merits. Formidable beers such as this are an experience unto themselves, and quite self-contained. However if you feel like nibbling on something while consuming a snifter of Glenda Sherbrooke I do have some suggestions for you. On their own or part of a platter, some bleu cheese (Stilton, Gorgonzola, Cabrales), earthy nuts (walnuts, pecans, Brazil nuts), or dark dried fruit (raisins, dates, figs, prunes) are your best options. You can even add some high quality dark chocolate to that list. If you need something more substantial, or your carnivore tooth is getting the best of you, keep in mind some grilled red or game meat to pair with.

The next steps in the cooler:

Also From Sherbrooke:
Aaiieeeeeeeeee Caramba!
Van Helsing’s All Natural Mouthwash
Chocolate Cherry Ostiarius
Bad Hare Day
Sherbrooke Shamrock
Neapoleon
Ochsner’s 1905 Alberta Porter
KGB Imperial Stout
Heartstopper
Mojo A’Peel

Also From Alley Kat:
Alley Kat Amber
Alley Kat Aprikat
Full Moon Pale Ale
Charlie Flint’s Organic Lager
Olde Deuteronomy

Other Barrel-aged Ales:
Innis and Gunn Oak Aged Beer
Innis and Gunn Canada Day Edition 2011
Ola Dubh Special Reserve 30

Lateral Steps:
Thomas Hardy’s Ale
Mill Street Barley Wine
Fuller’s Vintage Ale