Style: : Belgian Strong Dark Ale
ABV: 9%
Presentation: Single 750 ml brown caged and corked bottle / 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Unibroue
Country: Chambly, Quebec, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Here is the dark beauty from Unibroue’s regular line up of beers. I think I fell in love with Trois Pistoles the first time I tried if, and even if that’s not the case (it was quite some time ago!) I was still seduced by it fairly quickly. Trois Pistoles has been in production since 1997 after all.

This self-proclaimed Abbey Style Strong Ale is named after a small Quebecois village that has been sitting on the south shore of the St. Lawrence River for over 300 years. Trois Pistoles translates into “Three Coins”, which as legend has it is a name derived from the exclamation of a sailor who accidently dropped his silver goblet overboard into the river. He was pretty choked that he lost his 3 pistoles (a common form of Spanish currency of the time) that he had paid for the drinking vessel.

As with all Unibroue offerings there is a story behind the image on the label. This one in particular is a famous one from the village of Trois Pistoles. Regarding the church in question on the label it was said that the villagers of the time could not agree on the right spot to start building it. One hot summer day in August they woke up to find a perfectly square block of snow sitting on a particular site in the middle of town. Taking this as a divinely ordained decision they decided to start construction at that location.

To maintain the supernatural tone of the church’s origin one of the local bishops summoned the devil himself in the form of a large black stallion, in order to assist in hauling the large stone bricks that were chosen to assemble the church from. A holy blessed bridle was used to keep this momentarily benevolent devil steed in check and complacent for the industrious task at hand. Day after day this supernatural black horse toiled, delivering each one of the formidable building blocks that went into this structure of worship. However before this beast could deliver the final stone someone accidently removed the holy bridle, and it bolted off immediately, never to be seen again. No one was strong enough to move that final brick, and to this day the church in Trois Pistoles stands there missing that last brick in its structure.

When executed properly this style, the Strong Belgian Dark Ale, can possess as much complexity of flavour as the finest of red wines. Even surpass them. As such an easily accessible example of this style, let alone a Canadian produced one, Trois Pistoles delivers the goods. Yet unlike a devil horse, it follows through to the end.

Stemware is the glass of choice to enjoy this dark ale from. A snifter, chalice or an oversized wine glass is what you’re aiming for, or a tulip glass if you own one. Slightly chilled will be the optimum temperature range for serving Trois Pistoles, in order to discover all it has to offer. Allow it to warm maybe 20-30 minutes, although if you can’t wait that long the flavours will still open up in time. This is a pretty big, bold beer that you’ll be sipping on rather than chugging, so there will be time enough one way or another.

While not quite as dark as the horse of legend or the one on the label, this offering from Unibroue pours out a deep cloudy walnut brown, and will show garnet highlights when held to direct light. Expect a frothy beige head. Some time spent focusing on the aroma will offer up rewards of cherry and Concord grape, dates, apple skins, caramel, dark bready malt, hints of chocolate, dark spice, and mild grassy, floral hops. After enticing you in, the flavour then serves a combination of caramel and bready malt, chocolate, dark spice, cherry and dark fruit, brown sugar, mild grassy hops, and a dry sherry-like alcohol warmth. There’s a medium-bodied mouthfeel to it, smooth yet dry, with a healthy level of carbonation.

While perfectly satisfying on its own, here is an ale that works overtime when served with food. Think big and bold, like hearty roasts and stews full of herbs and earthy flavours. Game meats as well. Caramelized grilled meat is also high on the list. Then there are strong and rich cheese varieties to keep in mind, the carbonation level of this beer will do a beautiful job scrubbing your tongue and palate while the flavour rises up to match the intensity. If dessert is in order then try this with some dark chocolate, rich chocolate cake, or a spice cake.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Blanche de Chambly
Chambly Noire
Don de Dieu
Éphémère
La Fin du Monde
La Terrible
Maudite

In-Style:
Chimay Blue
Trappistes Rochefort 8
Gulden Draak
Nostradamus
Brooklyn Local 2
Gouden Carolus Classic

Lateral Steps:
St. Bernardus Abt 12
Trappistes Rochefort 10
La Trappe Quadrupel
DDC Rigor Mortis Abt
Pannepot Grand Reserva
Ayinger Celebrator
DDC Péché Mortel
Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout
Rogue Imperial Stout
Black Albert
Mikkeller Black Hole

Style: English Brown Ale
ABV: 5%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Alley Kat Brewing
Country: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

The Alley Kat Brewery is the oldest operating microbrewery here in Edmonton, clocking in at 16 years already at the writing of this, and the Alley Kat Amber Ale has been there from the very beginning. This beer was initially intended to be California Common style ale, however it didn’t seem to jive, so with a wise change of yeast strains the AK Amber was developed instead.

Probably the most confusing thing about this beer is the name. Although it’s called Amber (not “an” Amber), it’s actually modelled after the South English London-style of traditional Brown Ales. Not, in fact, an Amber style ale. It’s a common misconception, although it certainly doesn’t hamper this beer’s popularity. I once overheard brewery owner Neil Herbst comment that’s the problem when you name a beer after someone, especially when their name resembles an unrelated beer style. I never did find out who the eponymous Amber was though….

Back to the start of it all, this brown ale was one of the first 2 beers released by Alley Kat during its inception, and came in a 650 ml bottle before the brewery switched to 6 packs. The other founding beer that didn’t make the cut over the years was an unfiltered Wheat Ale. Perhaps Amber’s longevity stems from brown ales being such an approachable beer style, especially for people trying craft beer for the first time, or dabbling with ales after drinking nothing but cheaply made fizzy yellow lagers.

This particular style of Brown Ale is said to have originated in or around London, where the mineral-rich waters of the Thames River helped to accentuate the dark, toasty malts, yet kept the hops in check. The result exhibits a sweet malty beer with little to no bitterness. A mug or a pint glass will be perfect to sample this style in, and allowing it to warm 10-15 minutes or so will help draw out all the malty goodness.

If one were into forensics they could easily discern that this beer may have derived its name from its appearance alone. Alley Kat Amber indeed does present itself in a glass as a ruddy light brown, or more appropriately a deep amber hue. True to form the aroma offers sweet malt, caramel notes, some mild roast along with mild floral hops. What follows with the first sip is a warm embrace of rich sweet malt, notes of caramel, toast, and roast, and a mild yet balancing finish of floral, earthy hops. As moderation is the key to this style, even the mouthfeel stays at mid-range as medium-bodied with a moderate zip of carbonation.

Alley Kat Amber Ale is perfect local choice to match up with roast chicken or a beef pot roast with all the veggies, and pretty much whatever you choose to pull off the grill. Especially if you choose to pull off the grill some succulent ribs slathered in BBQ sauce. The folks at the brewery recommend a savoury antipasti platter, or pork chops sided with apples, onions and sweet potato.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Aprikat
Charlie Flint’s Organic Lager
Full Moon Pale Ale
Olde Deuteronomy

In-Style:
Wild Rose Brown
Samuel Smith’s Nut Brown Ale
Hockley Dark
Wellington County Ale
Garrison Nut Brown Ale
Mt. Begbie Tall Timber Ale

Lateral Steps:
Samuel Smith’s Famous Taddy Porter
Fuller’s London Porter
Paddock Wood London Porter
Hockley Black & Tan
Rogue Mocha Porter
Raasted Vinter
St-Ambroise Oatmeal Stout
Warsteiner Dunkel
Lobkowicz Baron

For The Adventurous:
DDC Péché Mortel
Unibroue Trois Pistoles
Brooklyn Monster Ale
St. Bernardus Abt 12
Half Pints Burly Wine

Style: Strong Barrel-Aged Ale
ABV: 18.5%
Presentation: Single 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Alley Kat Brewing Co. exclusive for Sherbrooke Liquor
Country: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Perhaps the only thing not twisted about this beer is the beer itself!

Glenda Sherbrooke is the result of aging the Alley Kat Brewery’s Olde Deuteronomy Barleywine in barrels that once held Glen Breton Rare Whisky from the Glenora Distillery. It turns out that the folks at Alley Kat were so impressed with the final result, that they opted to start releasing their own version of it next after this special Sherbrooke edition.

This left a little creative license open for Sherbrooke’s own maestro of mirth Jim Pettinger when it came to the label, as this would now only be a one-off release for the store. It’s questionable if it could be called a moment of clarity, however in the flash of an Ed Wood minute it was decided to turn Glenn on the label of Glenn Sherbrooke into Glenda. Perhaps it’s more of a convenient coincidence than a true homage to Ed Wood’s seminal classic Glen Or Glenda?, but one way or another it was decided to let Glenn’s freak flag fly.

To my knowledge, and after several search attempts, this is also the first beer label ever to sport a crossdresser on it. I’ll warn you in advance that a Google search to verify such a thing is not for the squeamish, and tends to get off-topic rather quickly. But never let it be said that I don’t put a thorough effort into tracking down as concise information as possible for you fine readers of KANPAI!

On the topic of trailblazing, Glenda Sherbrooke doesn’t stop there. It’s also a record-breaker by being the strongest beer to be bottled in Canada at this point in time. Even globally there isn’t a large amount of beer that clocks in at 18.5%, and amongst that crowd there aren’t many that are as easily approachable as this Whisky-barrel aged Barleywine. I have to admit that this is the smoothest beer of this alcohol strength that I have yet to try, it’s very deceptive what hides beneath that skirt, er, I mean behind that label, er, well, you know what I mean….

While smooth and approachable, it certainly doesn’t detract in matters of complexity either. Far from bonking you over the head with intensity, Glenda Sherbrooke reveals itself in symphonic waves and layers that force you to pay close attention to each sniff, and each sip. Don’t let the purse and the beard on the label fool you, there is a high degree of sophistication being offered in this beer.

So without any further ado it’s time to explore what this ground-breaking beer is all about. I would highly, highly recommend serving this extra strength Barleywine in a snifter type glass, or even a tulip glass if you own one. A pint glass if you absolutely must, or don’t own anything better to serve this in. For sure let it warm up before serving as well, cellar temperature will be optimum, so allow it to sit out between 20-40 minutes, depending on your level of patience.

Glenda Sherbrooke pours out a deep hazy brown colour, with a thin creamy brown head. In the aroma to discover are vinous and sherry-like notes, along with figs, dates, currants as well as some mild wood and pipe tobacco. You may encounter even more characteristics. With a complex beer such as this the experience is unique to each different person’s palate. Personally I picked up on flavours of wood, sweet liquor, tobacco, figs, cocoa nibs, carob nut, raisins, choke cherries, dry dark malt, hints of herbal hops and lingering traces of Whisky. Also a small amount of alcohol warmth to be noticed throughout. Expect a mouthfeel that is medium-bodied, with a chewy texture that finishes silky smooth, and low carbonation.

Certainly this big yet approachable beer is one that satisfies on its own merits. Formidable beers such as this are an experience unto themselves, and quite self-contained. However if you feel like nibbling on something while consuming a snifter of Glenda Sherbrooke I do have some suggestions for you. On their own or part of a platter, some bleu cheese (Stilton, Gorgonzola, Cabrales), earthy nuts (walnuts, pecans, Brazil nuts), or dark dried fruit (raisins, dates, figs, prunes) are your best options. You can even add some high quality dark chocolate to that list. If you need something more substantial, or your carnivore tooth is getting the best of you, keep in mind some grilled red or game meat to pair with.

The next steps in the cooler:

Also From Sherbrooke:
Aaiieeeeeeeeee Caramba!
Van Helsing’s All Natural Mouthwash
Chocolate Cherry Ostiarius
Bad Hare Day
Sherbrooke Shamrock
Neapoleon
Ochsner’s 1905 Alberta Porter
KGB Imperial Stout
Heartstopper
Mojo A’Peel

Also From Alley Kat:
Alley Kat Amber
Alley Kat Aprikat
Full Moon Pale Ale
Charlie Flint’s Organic Lager
Olde Deuteronomy

Other Barrel-aged Ales:
Innis and Gunn Oak Aged Beer
Innis and Gunn Canada Day Edition 2011
Ola Dubh Special Reserve 30

Lateral Steps:
Thomas Hardy’s Ale
Mill Street Barley Wine
Fuller’s Vintage Ale

Style: Pumpkin Ale
ABV: 5.7%
Presentation: 633 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Baird Brewing Company
Country: Numazu, Japan

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Pumpkin Ales are an American style of beer that date back to the 1600’s. While the gourd-like vegetable benefits a beer several ways with its fermentable sugars, it’s typically the spice mixture used to bake with pumpkin that adds the tell-tale signature flavour to this particular style.

Leave it to a brewery in Japan to take this style and tip it on its ear. Okay, perhaps nothing that drastic, but they do take it and put a localized stamp on it. The Baird Brewing Company has been around since March of 2000, and is run by a husband and wife team who over the past decade have carved out a unique niche within the Japanese craft beer market. A Japanese version of Pumpkin Ale is far from being the odd duck within this brewery’s solid line up, yet it certainly stood out for me.

Some purists may push to categorize this as a more generic style Vegetable Beer, but to me the shoe fits nearly well enough otherwise. The kabocha within the name of this beer is the eponymous vegetable in question. It’s a Japanese variety of winter squash that resembles a green-skinned pumpkin, yet the flesh is sweeter than even butternut squash. Most circles refer to it as a Japanese pumpkin. Heck, in some Asian cultures it’s even considered an aphrodisiac! The kabocha used in this particular beer comes straight from the local garden of a friend of the brewers, adding an extra personal element to the final product.

While Country Girl Kabocha Ale is not listed as one of the Baird Brewery’s regular seasonal beers, they have been producing it every Fall for the past 9 years now. It gains its complexity from the use of 5 different types of malt, 3 separate hop varieties, as well as several additions of the kabocha throughout the brewing process itself: once during the mashing of the malts, then again during the actual kettle boil, along with a small amount at priming to referment once in the bottle.

For such a wonderful and unique beer this is one that tends to be a bit of a wallflower up on the shelves, and can unfortunately be easily overlooked. Although it comes in a big brown bottle, the actual label for it is just a generic Baird Brewery logo, with no mention of what this beer actually is, until you flip the bottle around and read the small English print on the back label. In fact when I first bought this beer I had absolutely no idea what it really was or what to expect, it really was one of those random stabs in the dark that us beer aficionados tend to take from time to time. Or at least those of us who like to live dangerously… That fact that this Japanese Pumpkin Ale caught me by surprise and I enjoyed it so much as a result is one of the major motives for me sharing all this information with you as well, this is one diamond in the rough worth seeking out!

When the search is over and it comes down to finally serving this unique beer, your best bet is you’re trusty pint glass, or a mug if extra gripping options are to your liking. Somewhat chilled is the temperature zone to aim for, so consider letting the bottle sit out around 15-20 minutes before you pop the top and pour.

That pour will reveal a hazy deep amber body, topped with a tall creamy beige head. There is some sweet bready and caramel malt on the nose, accompanied with an equally sweet squash-like character, with mild earthy spices in the background most likely from the hops. The flavour tends to match up fairly closely. To start is a sweet cake-like malt, followed with sweet squash notes in the middle, and balanced out by a spicy, earthy bitterness on the finish. Rounding everything out is a mouthfeel that is on the full side, with a creamy thick texture and moderate carbonation.

For a food pairing perhaps consider a well-herbed pot roast with a side of sweet potato or butternut squash. The sweetness of the malt will be able to match the intensity of medium heat dishes from the Cajun, Tex-Mex, Indian, Thai and Vietnamese styles. If you have something even more exotic in mind the malt of Country Girl Kabocha will hold its own with the earthy nature of game birds, while the earthy sweetness of the kabocha compliments it. However if dessert is the course you’re saving yourself for go with your favourite spice cake, or even a rich carrot cake.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Angry Boy Brown Ale
Dark Sky Imperial Stout
Jubilation Ale
Kurofune Porter
Numazu Lager
Red Rose Amber Ale
Rising Sun Pale Ale
Shimaguni Stout
Shizuoka Summer Mikan Ale
Suruga Bay Imperial IPA
Teikoku IPA
Temple Garden Yuzu Ale
West Coast Wheat Wine
Yabai Yabai Strong Scotch Ale

In-Style (seasonal):
Dogfish Head Punkin Ale
Brooklyn Post Road Pumpkin Ale
Alley Kat Pumpkin Pie
St-Ambroise Citrouille
Red Racer Pumpkin Ale

Style: English Strong Ale
ABV: 8.3%
Presentation: Single 330 ml clear bottle, in a special edition box
Brewery: Innis & Gunn
Country: Scotland, UK

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

The good folks at the Scottish brewery of Innis & Gunn have spoiled us Canadians over the past few years, however in the proper context it’s been well deserved. Canada is the largest global export market for their fine products, and in our own way Canadian beer drinkers have helped to make Innis & Gunn what it is today.

2009 saw the first release of a Canadian Cask edition, which saw the addition of some rye malt, and was aged in Canadian Rye Whiskey barrels. The following Canada Day celebrations in 2010 saw a second release of this ale. While I enjoyed them, I admit that they personally didn’t wow me like the original Innis & Gunn Oak Aged Beer, or their Rum Cask Edition. My theory is that Rye Whiskey just doesn’t have the fullness and complexity of character that other varieties of Whiskies exhibit. As a result there wasn’t as much character from the barrels to be passed along to the beer maturing inside them.

However this new edition for 2011 is a brand new incarnation. Gone is the plain red cardboard box the former 2 editions came in, and the replacement exhibits artwork by Canadian artist Deborah Colvin. Over 50 different entries were juried by the brewery, which were submitted by members of the Society of Canadian Artists to earn this place of honour.

It seems to me that the recipe itself has also received a bit of an overhaul. A very successful and delicious overhaul. The addition of Munich malt provides it a pronounced toffee-like flavour, while the presence of earthy Fuggles hops is apparent on the finish, and offers a wonderful balance to the overall profile. Marrying this all together is maturation back into Bourbon oak barrels, rather than the Rye Whiskey of the previous two editions.

The final result is easily my favourite of the Innis & Gunn special editions—well, save for their exceptional Highland Cask special edition, but that’s a whole other story.

A snifter will help highlight more of the nuances found in this patriotic special edition, yet you’re still okay with your trusty pint glass. I would suggest letting this sit out perhaps 10 minutes at least to help remove some of the chill.

This Canada Day 2011 Edition pours out a clear rich rustic amber hue, with a tall creamy off-white head that slowly settles. On the nose are rich caramel and oak notes, joined by some spicy, earthy hops. Now the flavour is quite an experience. I was able to pick out rich caramel and toffee up front, some brown sugar, a rum and raisin character in the middle, while vanilla starts to rise near the finish. The finish itself exhibits some dates and leafy herbal hops. Vanilla coats the lips after a while. The mouthfeel is medium-light with a slick silky texture, and low carbonation.

Your options are quite varied when choosing food to pair with this ale. Be it pork, beef, chicken or lamb, a succulent roast is a primo option. Some grilled red meat is by no means a far second place choice either. Nutty and soft cheese will offer you an excellent pairing if you’re looking more for a finger food option. Or if you plan on serving this on Canada Day itself, you can’t get more patriotic than grilled salmon with a maple glaze.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Innis & Gunn Oak Aged Beer
Blonde Lightly Oaked Beer
Rum Cask Oak Aged Beer

In-Style:
Ola Dubh Special Reserve 12
Ola Dubh Special Reserve 16
Ola Dubh Special Reserve 30

Lateral Steps:
Lagunitas Brown Shugga’
Wellington Iron Duke
Yukon Lead Dog Ale

For The Adventurous:
Fuller’s Vintage
Chimay Blue
DDC Péché Mortel
BrewDog Paradox

Style: Belgian Pale Ale
ABV: 6.2%
Presentation: Single 330 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Brasserie d’Orval S.A..
Country: Villers-devant-Orval, Belgium

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Orval is undoubtedly the most unique of the Trappiste Ales traditionally being produced today, and I would dare say that title would encompass the secular Abbey Ales as well. From the unique bowling pin shaped bottle to the contents found inside, this is a Belgian Ale that sets its own precedent, and it is truly one of a kind.

Speaking of which, of all the producers of Trappiste Ales, Orval stands out by only producing one type of beer, and one beer only. It also carries the significance of being the oldest of the brewing monasteries, although the present modern brewery was set up in 1931.

Just as unique as the ale in the spotlight is the legendary story behind the creation of the monastery itself. As it goes an 11th century noblewoman and widow, the Duchess Mathilda of Tuscany, accidently dropped the wedding ring of her lost beloved down a well. Distraught at the loss and not knowing what else to do, she began to pray. To back up her sincerity she vowed to build a monastery on that site if only she could retrieve her lost treasured possession. At that moment a trout broke the surface of the water with the golden ring in its mouth and offered it back to the Duchess. She exclaimed, “Truly this place is a Val d’Or!” (which means Valley of Gold), and followed through with her divine promise of gratitude.

This is how Orval acquired not only its name, but also the logo of a fish with a ring in its mouth. The monastery itself has gone through its fair share of issues and adversity in its lengthy tenure spanning a millennium, however besides the production of beer this monastery carries a healthy reputation for producing artisanal cheese that is even exported to surrounding countries. In keeping with the practice of being a good member of the community, all the profits Orval makes from its beer sales are donated to charities or towards local community development projects.

For those who are into collecting glassware or gift packs, Orval has its own special chalice that is available from time to time. I strongly suggest serving this in some form of stemware, like a snifter or large red wine glass if you don’t own any Belgian chalices or tulip glasses. About 15 minutes is a magic number to allow it to warm before serving; a happy medium between retaining some chill and releasing the earthy and spicy notes.

A tall fluffy white meringue head will crown a cloudy light-amber body once you transfer this to a glass. While subtle and complex at the same time, some character you should be able to detect in the aroma will be a tart sharpness, some herbal and citrus notes, along with an earthy bit of funk. Extended focus will reveal even more hidden in there waiting to be discovered. The dry earthiness and sharp tartness also extend over into the flavour, along with spicy notes, finishing with a tangerine and lemon citrus character. Once again, this is just scratching the surface, but at least you know what you’re getting yourself into at this point. Things are round out by a light, dry, mildly carbonated mouthfeel.

Orval pairs very well with fish that has been prepared with some sort of citrus marinade or sauce. This is equally applied to salads tossed in a zesty vinaigrette. It also tends to have all the bases covered when served with the complex flavours found in Thai cuisine. Personally I would go along the lines of pan-seared scallops served over wild rice with a drizzle of lemon, or lobster ravioli garnished with parmesan. Aged sharp Cheddar will make a decent lone cheese pairing to nibble on.

The next steps in the cooler:

Other Trappiste Ales:
Chimay Blue
Chimay Red
Chimay White
Koningshoeven Tripel Ale
Koningshoeven Quad Ale
Westmalle Dubbel
Westmalle Tripel
Achel Blonde
Achel Bruin
Rochefort 6
Rochefort 8
Rochefort 10

In-Style:
Leffe Blonde
De Koninck
DDC Dernière Volonté

Lateral Steps:
Cantillon Iris
Lindemans Faro Lambic
Duchesse De Bourgogne
Mikkeller It’s Alive
Lagunitas A Little Sumpin’ Wild

For The Adventurous:
Thomas Hardy’s Ale
Mikkeller Beer Geek Brunch (Weasel)
Lagunitas Hop Stoopid

Style: Old Ale
ABV: 8%
Presentation: Single 330 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Harviestoun Brewery Ltd.
Country: Alva, Scotland, U.K.

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

When most people think about Scotland the usual things that first come to mind tend to be along the lines of whisky, claymores and kilts. Perhaps craggy green pastures and challenging indigenous cuisine if you press them. Many people are unaware that Scotland is capable of producing some pretty remarkable beers in their own right, many of which that sadly don’t reach our shores and shelves.

This revelation shouldn’t come as too much of a surprise when you find out that the Scots have been brewing beer for thousands of years, some variations that can be quite unique within their borders. In relation to this, the palate for and production of whisky on the same soil only stems back a couple of hundred years in comparison.

However the Ola Dubh series from the Harviestoun brewery goes and combines some of the best craftsmanship of these two grain-based beverages. Pronounced “Olah-Doov”, this is a name that means “black oil” in Scots Gaelic. Fitting since the base used for all of the Ola Dubh editions is Harviestoun’s own notable Old Engine Oil Porter, which is an impeccable specimen in its own right.

This fine Porter then goes on to be aged in Scotch whisky casks that are from the Highland Park Distillery of Orkney. While I’m specifically focusing on the 18 year old cask edition, the others that have also been released so far are a 12, 16, 30 and 40 year old cask version. They’re all fine specimens in their own right, yet the Special Reserve 18 stood out for me the most of the lot on its own unique merits.

Perhaps the American beverage guru F. Paul Pacult can back this assessment up even more in his own way. According to his list of the top 110 best spirits in the world, the Highland Park 18 Year Old Scotch Whisky soundly rounds out the number one spot. So basically when you take an excellent beer and age it in a barrel that housed an excellent whisky, the results are amazing, and the remainder is delicious. That is some math that I can definitely get behind!

The overall impression it gives me personally is that of something you’d be sipping out of a snifter while sitting in a large winged leather chair at the foot of a roaring fire in the hunting lodge of Allan Quatermain. For those who have fallen behind in their book clubs, he was a character in many novels written by H. Rider Haggard over a century ago, and one of the many inspirations that formed the mosaic of the Indiana Jones persona. The things that a well crafted beer conjures up….

Maintaining the above sentiment I would highly recommend serving this Special Reserve 18 version of Ola Dubh in a large brandy snifter, and the same would go for any of the other editions. If you wish to be very fancy and have one handy then feel free to use a tulip glass. 20 minutes to half an hour would be sufficient time to allow it warm up if pulled from the fridge, in a sense to allow it to wake up. The reverse is equally true if you manage to purchase a room temperature bottle: let it sit in the fridge for 20 minutes to half an hour to put a slight chill on it.

The body of this ale seems more of a dense opaque brown than black (although it could be a trick of the eyes), while a tight spongy beige head maintains itself with stoic retention. Raisins, wood and whisky are most prominent on the nose, however in a wonderfully weaved pattern. Sweet raisin up front in the flavour, it rolls into a rich dark malt that unveils a plush carpet of rounded chocolate, then wood, then bittersweet alcohol from the whisky. Rounded alcohol warmth on the finish and aftertaste. This all delivered by a medium-light mouthfeel of smooth texture and minimal carbonation.
I’m not a smoker, and nor do I condone it, but for those who do partake, this barrel-aged ale would be an ideal mate to a quality cigar or a well-packed pipe. The blended aromas alone could be satiating. While I would be content enough to sip this on its own, or as a digestif, I know there are some people out there who prefer to enjoy their beer with complimentary cuisine. If this is the case then consider a well-prepared dish of game, lamb, or smoked meats. Or perhaps a risotto of earthy mushrooms, okra and nuts garnished with a drizzle of truffle oil. A platter of aged and smoked Gouda will also provide an agreeable pairing.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Ola Dubh Special Reserve 12
Ola Dubh Special Reserve 16
Ola Dubh Special Reserve 30
Ola Dubh Special Reserve 40
Bitter & Twisted IPA
Old Engine Oil Porter

Scotch Ales:
Traquair House Ale
Traquair Jacobite
McEwan’s Scotch Ale
DDC Équinoxe Du Printemps

Old/Strong Ales:
Fuller’s Vintage Ale
Paddock Wood Double Double
Glenn Sherbrooke Barrel #1

Lateral Steps:
Ayinger Celebrator Doppelbock
Chimay Red
Gulden Draak
Pannepot Old Fisherman’s Ale

Style: Belgian Strong Pale Ale
ABV: 10%
Presentation: Single 750 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Le Trou Du Diable
Country: Shawinigan, Quebec, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

When it comes to Canadian produced beers from the past year or so, none has managed to surprise and delight me more than this special edition released by a small but growing craft brewpub/brewery from a small city nestled between both Montreal and Quebec City. What adds a bit more street cred to that statement is that fact that I don’t necessarily gravitate towards this type of beer as my initial instinct, especially when there is so much else available that I’ve yet to sample.

It seems to me that the talented folks at Le Trou Du Diable took on a potentially volatile endeavour, and with a healthy combination of craftsmanship and luck, managed to pull off what seems like a perfect storm of a final product. They utilize 3 different yeast strains with their original Tripel Abbey ale, named after a local historical member of the clergy, and age it for 4 months in American oak barrels. These aren’t just any old barrels though; they once housed artisanal apple brandy cider from the Michel Jodoin cider mill, made from the fruit of the neighbouring Rougemont orchards.

The individual that the original and this special edition ale are brewed in honour of is the Jesuit missionary Father Jacques Buteux. He first landed in Quebec City in 1634 as the first evangelical missionary for the area, and was soon sent on to the Trois-Pistoles region. However in 1652 he met a grisly demise at the hands of an Iroquois ambush, and his body was cast into what became known as “The Devil’s Hole”, which is also what this brewery borrows its name from.

Le Trou du Diable was what the local inhabitants called a large watery vortex at the foot of Shawinigan Falls, which is said to be bottomless and impossible to fish anyone out who is unfortunate enough to fall in. The indigenous natives considered it an abode of evil spirits, and the folklore of the subsequent Catholic settlers came to consider it as something of a vacation spot for the devil to hide and get away from the world at times. Before he arrived in the New World Father Buteux had learned the art of brewing from spending time with some Trappiste monks, and because his body was never recovered it is thought that he spends eternity now making beer in order to help keep the devil sedate and distracted.

This is a beer that will demand the proper glassware in order to get the most out of it. A tulip glass if you have one, a large snifter otherwise or a large red wine glass as a last resort. Some chill on it will help you enjoy it as well, so give it about a 10 minute head start out of the fridge to pop open the bottle.

The appearance is a bit rustic, with an amber body and a nearly opaque haze to it; expect a spongy white head that will rapidly recede. Then there’s an aroma reminiscent of a farmhouse ale, presenting a sharp acidity along with notes of wood and cidery apples. However things balance out greatly in the flavour. There’s mild caramel malt with some toasted character up front, bittersweet spicy acidity from the yeast, finishing with wood and a hint of apples. The aftertaste is surprisingly clean. Medium-full mouthfeel, smooth yet well-carbonated, providing a mild alcohol warmth.

Duck, pheasant, and other game fowl are the first types of dishes that come to mind when attempting to pair this unique beer with some food. Other types of game meat would also be good considerations. Smoked fish and meats as well. For something on the lighter side try a salad of baby mixed greens and earthy mushrooms tossed in a balsamic red wine vinaigrette.

The next steps in the cooler:

In-Style:
Hitachino Nest red Rice Ale
Mikkeller USAlive!
Lagunitas A Little Sumpin’ Wild

Lateral Steps:
Dominus Vobiscum Lupulus
Unibroue La Fin Du Monde
Corsendonk Abbey Pale Ale

For The Adventurous:
Cantillon Iris
Duchesse De Bourgogne
Petrus Aged Pale

Style: Belgian Style Brown Ale
ABV: 8.5%
Presentation: Single 330 ml brown bottle; Single 720 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Kiuchi Brewery
Country: Ibaraki, Japan

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

The Kiuchi Brewery has been producing sake on its premises since 1823, but it was only in 1996 when Japanese brewing laws had changed two years previous that they finally started making their own craft beers under the Hitachino Nest label. Their XH Ale is something of a melding between the past and the present, a craft beer homage to their roots.

“Hitachino” stems from the original name of the region the brewery sits in, translating to English as the “plains of Ibaraki”. Kounosu, which means “Nest” in Japanese, was the name of the town that the founder of the Kiuchi Brewery was the headman of. At the time Kiuchi Gihei and his family had been employed to collect rice from the surrounding farmers as a land tax for the governing Mito Tokugawa regime. He utilized the remaining rice left over in the storage warehouse that he oversaw to start producing sake as a personal venture, and thus the Kiuchi Brewery came into being in the year 1823.

The Hitachino Nest XH is probably the most unique ale that the Kiuchi Brewery releases. It’s a self-styled Strong Belgian Dark Ale that also shares a small similarity to a Lambic at the same time. What makes it even more distinct is that this beer is aged in oak barrels for 3 months that once housed shochu.

Shochu is a distilled type of liquor native to Japan, and every region seems to have developed their own distinct variety based on easily accessible ingredients. Similar to vodka, it can be produced from a range of grains or vegetables, however keeping with the background of this particular brewery, it is distilled from the lees left over from sake production. There really wouldn’t be a reason for a sake brewery to use anything else. Kiuchi started their distillation of shochu in 2003.

As a result of all of this I can honestly say that I have never tasted a beer quite like the Hitachino Nest XH Ale, it is unlike anything else out there and practically in a style of its own for the most part. It took me a while to wrap my taste buds around it and decipher what was going on, but by the end of my first bottle I was convinced.

Because of the higher alcohol, sharper flavour and lingering character from the spirits barrel, your best choice of glassware would have to be a large brandy snifter. Something else can substitute if absolutely necessary, although I honestly think it will detract from experiencing all the little quirks found in this special little beer. Perhaps this is the first time in writing this column I’m insisting one particular type of glass, excuse the beer snob/diva moment, however in the end it really will be to your own benefit. Yet with all quirks aside, I’ve found that the best serving temperature is while it is still somewhat chilled, so allow it to sit out of the fridge maybe 10 minutes max before drinking.

It will pour into the glass with a tall tight spongy beige head, and a body that is a deep opaque amber. Tart acidity and dry, woody and musty notes dominate the aroma, living up to its former comparison akin to a Lambic. The flavour unravels with a bit of complexity that requires a fair amount of concentration since for most people this will seem like new ground. There’s a musty character and some earthy bittersweet raisin at first, then light caramel malts pop up in the middle, followed by a dry sherry-like finish and some wood lingering well into the aftertaste. An astringent leafy hop presence can also be detected fluctuating on and off the radar throughout. Medium-bodied mouthfeel that comes across as smooth, effervescent and dry.

Given the distinctly unique character to this particular ale, and the curious Japanese/Belgian hybrid of it, basic food pairings become something of a challenge to take into consideration. Gyoza pops into mind first, along with a healthy bowl of Udon Soup. Taking a more Continental approach some smoked salmon, spicy crab cakes, or even a well-executed platter of mussels will provide enough character to keep up to the XH. Chinese crispy duck with green onion cakes would also offer a more expansive culinary experience. If you’re not into all that meat, a nice mushroom risotto is an excellent option.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
White Ale
Red Rice Ale
Espresso Stout
Japanese Classic Ale
Celebration Ale
Weizen
Sweet Stout

Lateral Steps:
Cantillon Iris
Lindemans Faro Lambic
Orval
Mikkeller USAlive!

For the Adventurous:
Red Racer IPA
Rogue XS Imperial IPA
Thomas Hardy’s Ale
Mikkeller Big Worst

Style: American Brown Ale
ABV: 6.2%
Presentation: Single 650 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Rogue Ales Brewery
Country: Newport, Oregon, U.S.A.

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Rogue is a craft brewery that has never been shy about experimenting, or utilizing seemingly exotic ingredients in their beers. Hailing from the heart of the American Pacific North West, they are also not shy about their heavy use of hops either, which tends to dominate the majority of their regular line up.

This is actually one of the major complaints I hear from people getting started in discovering the world of craft beer, and one of the major factors of why they tend to shy away from Rogue. From personal experience I can confess it took me years to develop a palate that relished in the wonderful realm of hops, and remember how intimidating they can be to the uninitiated.

Something people tend to overlook when it comes to this craft brewery from Oregon is that they still produce some sweeter, malt focused styles that also don’t shy away from Rogue’s reputation for creativity, or intensity of flavour. In fact back in the day Rogue’s Hazelnut Brown Nectar used to be one of my favourites, and to this day remains one of my admitted guilty pleasures.

This particular brown ale is a testament of the perks behind knowing a professional brewer. The story has it that this beer was inspired by a similar homebrew designed by a fellow named Chris Studach, who just so happened to be good friends with Rogue’s Brewmaster John Maier. Studach’s vision was to take a traditional English Brown Ale, and put a PNW stamp on it by adding hazelnuts to it, a nut that grows abundant in that part of North America. Maier took things a step further and turned it into a commercial version.

As the house Brown ale for Rogue, this beer has even inspired offshoots as well. Of the three different rums that the Rogue Distillery produces, by far the most unique is the Hazelnut Spice Rum, easily inspired by the success and flavour profile of their Brown Nectar Ale. Also currently available is the one of several collaborations between in-house Brewmaster and Distiller, in the form of John John Hazelnut, which is the Hazelnut Brown Nectar aged in barrels that once housed the Hazelnut Spice Rum. So if you find you enjoy the regular version of this ale, there are certainly extra options left open for you to explore.

Speaking of which, let’s check the beer out now. A pint glass will serve just fine for this endeavour, while a mug is just as fine if you have one you’re more partial to. I find most brown ales taste best once the chill starts to fall from them, and this one is no exception, so consider allowing the bottle to sit around 10-15 minutes before opening and serving.

Sweet malt and some nut will greet the nose the moment you open the bottle. Toasted malts, sweet nuts, and mild chocolate are what you’ll discover in the aroma once in the glass. Holding up that glass you’ll notice a dark ruby chestnut body to the brown ale, with a lingering creamy off-white head. There’s a silky smooth texture from a medium-light mouthfeel which helps to deliver a chocolaty malt flavour, along with toasted nuts and a mild hop finish. Slight mocha coffee notes round out the finish as it warms and melds into the aftertaste.

For the cheese crowd out there this particular brown ale gives you some interesting options. You could sip and nibble along with your favourite nutty, sharp or soft cheese, the latter of which will give you the effect of a liquid gourmet grilled cheese sandwich across your palate in unison with the ale. The finger food crowd would have already concluded that an assortment of fresh or roasted nuts will do nothing but play off of and accentuate the sweet toasty nuttiness of this beer. Brown ales also go great with grilled meat, from burgers to ribs. And let’s not forget dessert. From banana bread to carrot cake, coffee sponge cake to a chocolate chip zucchini loaf, Hazelnut Brown Nectar will partner up well with any of them, and most choices in between. Or consider your favourite artisanal chocolate, and call it a well-deserved indulgence.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
American Amber
Kell’s Irish Lager
Brutal Bitter
Captain Sig’s Northwestern Ale
Chipotle Ale
Chocolate Stout
Chatoe Rogue Dirtoir Black lager
Dead Guy Ale
Double Dead Guy Ale
Half-E-Weizen
John John Hazelnut
John John Juniper Ale
Juniper Pale Ale
Maierfest Lager
Mocha Porter
Mogul Madness
Morimoto Black Soba Ale
Shakespeare Stout
Somer Orange Honey Ale
Yellow Snow IPA
Santa’s Private Reserve
Younger’s Special Bitter
XS Imperial Porter
XS Imperial IPA
XS Imperial Red
XS Imperial Stout
XS Old Crustacean Barleywine
XS Younger’s Special Bitter

In-Style:
Alley Kat Amber Ale
Brooklyn Brown Ale
Half Pints Sweet Nikki Brown
Lost Coast Downtown Brown
Mt. Begbie Tall Timber Ale

Lateral Steps:
Pump House Fire Chief’s Red Ale
Fish Tale Organic Amber Ale
Hockley Dark Ale
Okanagan Springs Dark Lager

For The Adventurous:
Fullers London Porter
Yukon Midnight Sun Espresso Stout
Samuel Smith’s Oatmeal Stout
Traquair House Jacobite Ale