KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

The Yukon Brewing Company is known for many of their regular line up of beers. There is Yukon Gold, their flagship offering available since the start-up of the brewery, which outsells the products of large national mass-produced companies up in the Yukon Territory. Then there’s Yukon Red which was crowned the 2009 Canadian Beer of the Year. Or the robust Lead Dog Ale which in 2009 also garnered the brewery international acclaim at the annual Real Ale Festival in the UK. Yet speaking of robust, none comes across as enigmatic as their Midnight Sun Espresso Stout.

What helps to cement that claim is that it involves a collaboration with another iconic Whitehorse establishment: the eponymous Midnight Sun Coffee Roasters. The initial concept is credited to former Midnight Sun owner Zola Dore, who produced a coffee beer with her own fresh roasted product at a local U-Brew facility. This resident “Bean Queen” then approached Yukon Brewing in the Fall of 2003 about fine tuning that idea and releasing it in larger commercially available batches.

The talented folks at the Yukon Brewing Company were up to the task, figuring out a way to prevent the oils from the coffee beans from adversely affecting the finished product. Through a strict regime of timing and temperature they came up with a successful way of adding freshly roasted and ground espresso directly into the mash. A mash that also contains 8 different types of malts, plus the addition of oats.

All that effort is worth it though, the final result speaks for itself. Midnight Sun Espresso Stout was a success from the start, at first available in 1 litre flip-top bottles, and now a mainstay on local shelves in the more customary 6 pack.

Solid with its delivery on its own merits, grab yourself a pint glass or a mug to serve this Stout in, however some type of stemware is fine if you prefer to experience your beers that way by now. The aromas are also pretty straight forward, so allowing this to warm a bit before consuming won’t necessarily reveal more nuance but will certainly uncover more depth to those inherent traits.

A characteristic opaque pitch black colour will dominate the glass until you get around the emptying it, capped momentarily by a tight creamy mocha-hued head. As you are correct to assume from the appearance there is an aroma of roasted malt, intense sharp coffee, and dry dark chocolate. The flavour keeps things consistent and delivers with mild roasted malt, fresh espresso grounds, some dry cocoa, along with mild dry earthy hops. It’s the mouthfeel that actually offers a bit of a surprise, medium-bodied and not as thick as one would expect, yet still creamy and smooth thanks to the extra addition of oats, with a mild level of carbonation.

Before I go into any food pairings I will first add that this is an excellent beer to use while cooking a beef or lamb roast in lieu of broth, it adds a noticeable property to the cooked meat, although not as intense as you might think. As for pairings, the coffee element combined with the roast malt is raring to go along with any grilled or smoked meat you have a hankering to prepare. It’s one of those beers that can help tame a serving of game meat as well. If you’d rather go the route of seafood, consider shellfish, especially mussels or raw oysters. Swiss, Camembert, Fontina or Havarti are cheeses that will find an enjoyable match up with it. To finish things off, chocolate based desserts are an easy winner. Or for starting off the day Yukon Brewing even suggests serving it along with breakfast if that’s your thing, you can skip that morning cuppa joe!

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Yukon Gold
Yukon Red
Discovery Honey ESB
Deadman Creek Cranberry Wheat
Ice Fog IPA
Lead Dog Ale

Other Coffee Beers:
DDC Péché Mortel
Lagunitas Cappuccino Stout
Mikkeller Beer Geek Breakfast
Hitachino Nest Espresso Stout
Half Pints Stir Stick Stout
Rogue Mocha Porter
Mill Street Coffee Porter

Other Stouts:
St-Amboise Oatmeal Stout
DDC Aphrodisiaque
Samuel Smith’s Oatmeal Stout
Rogue Chocolate Stout
Amber’s Kenmount Road Chocolate Stout
Sherbrooke Heartstopper
Old Rasputin Imperial Russian Stout
La Vache Folle Milk Stout
Old Yale Sasquatch Stout

The RedRum bottle is the first thing that you notice on the shelf.  I cannot think of another vibrant coloured bottle of rum on the market.  You know just from that that this is going to be something fun to enjoy.

We were first introduced to this rum 10 years ago.  As soon as we tried it, we knew we liked it.  The flavours are all natural, so you get a good clean taste.  Natural mango, pineapple, coconut, and cherry flavours are infused into the rum so with that combo you can see that the drinks/cocktails have endless possibilities.  Take a look at a couple of them below.  Then log onto the website to see so many more.  Try your hand at coming up with a drink or two.  I did.  You will see the recipes later in the blog.

REDRUM DAIQUIRI

• 2 oz. RedRum
• 2 oz. sweet and sour mix (or to taste)
• Add strawberries, bananas, or another favorite fruit.

• Blend all ingredients with ice and serve in a hurricane glass.

REDRUM BREEZE

• 2 oz. RedRum
• 4 oz. cranberry juice
• 1/2 oz. grapefruit juice

• Mix ingredients in a tall glass with ice and garnish with a lime wedge.

CSPC:                        514067
Winesday Price: 

$  26.09   (Includes Winesday 10% discount)

Regular Price:

$  28.99*

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Location: U.S.A.
Tasting: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

Some people refer to our next to drinks as ‘liqueurs’.  While they certainly can be called that, we think they better fit the ‘ready to drink’ category.  You can enjoy this ‘I’m Bananas Over You’ chilled straight out of the bottle or blend it with ice and you have a great smoothie/slushy.  It is quite delicious.  Or try your hand at mixing it.  It is made with Rum, Dairy Cream and natural flavours.  So it is not some chemical concoction that tastes like bananas, it is natural banana flavour.  You really can’t get any better than that.

Here is a funny story for you:  About a decade ago I was doing a sampling with the I’m Bananas Over You and the RedRum at a north-side liquor store.  A bunch of young chaps came in and when I offered to make them a sample drink, this is what came back at me:  ‘Naw… that creamy stuff if for girls.’  Never to turn down a challenge I asked the guys if they would do me a favour and try this drink I came up with (see recipe below).  I lined them up and gave them a small sample and told them they all had to drink it at the same time and then tell me what they thought.  Down it went and the looks on their faces told the story.  They didn’t even have to say anything.  They loved it.  The one chap sheepishly said ‘that’s pretty good’.  I said ‘sorry what was that?  I couldn’t quite hear you.’ (oh I am baaaaaad).  He just looked at me and laughed and said ‘yah yah.  Okay this stuff is pretty good.’  If you haven’t guess it already, Richard and I love what we do.  Especially when there is a little fun involved… which is all the time.

This is what I came up with 10 years ago.  Just to let you know, I did not name it.  So don’t laugh.  One of the liquor reps came up with the name.

ROSANNA BANANA

• 1 oz. RedRum
• 3 oz. (or 4 oz. if you like) I’m Bananas Over You
• Add ice and enjoy

• OR you may blend all ingredients with ice

CSPC:                        737329
Winesday Price:

$ 16.19  (Includes Winesday 10% discount)

Regular Price:

$ 17.99*

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Awesome Orange Cream

Location: U.S.A.
Tasting: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

Info from Original Bartenders Cocktails:  “It starts with Real Dairy Cream…  This is probably the biggest difference because the Real Dairy Cream allows the Bartenders to absorb the full rich flavor that goes into every bottle.  Bartenders Cocktails use actual spirits whether it is Vodka or Rum and blends these spirits with (other flavours).”  In this case, the Awesome Orange Cream is made with Vodka.

Try the ‘Rosanna Banana’ recipe above, except replace the I’m Bananas Over You with the Awesome Orange Cream.  Also quite yummy.  I haven’t come up with a name for that one yet!!

CSPC:                        737376
Winesday Price:

$ 16.19  (Includes Winesday 10% discount)

Regular Price:

$ 17.99*

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

We are back to the wine next week. In the meantime have a safe May long weekend.

Check out more of Jason Foster’s beer news and views at onbeer.org

Last month I started discussing the much ignored beer styles that could be grouped as “small beer”, beer that are lower in alcohol but remain flavourful and well-crafted. Small beer have a long history, going back to the origins of brewing when brewers, eager to get every last gram of sugar out of their mash, would do a final running of a low-alcohol beer meant either for blending or casual consumption in mornings and other occasions.

Small beer died out in part due to advances in brewing techniques. Mashes became more efficient, and brewers were able to extract a higher percentage of sugars from their first running, thus eliminating the need for multiple batches from one grain bill. However, the tradition of small beer is still found today in a handful of styles that remain both enjoyable and only mildly intoxicating.

The masters at small beer are likely the English, who seem to have hung onto old methods longer than many. They also have the widest range of small beer, reflecting their tradition of brewing a wide range of ales. There are three basic English small ales: Ordinary Bitter (and Best Bitter depending on how you define small), Mild and Southern English Brown. Some of these styles are even available in Alberta.

These days, Mild is seen as a small brown ale, but as a style mild is much older than current demarcations. Originally (and by that I mean the 1700s) it was a general term for any young beer meant to be drank fresh, in contrast to “stock” ales which were for aging. The “mild” did not refer to its alcoholic strength, but to its smoother flavour – due to a lack of lactic fermentation and oxidation found in stock ales. In the 1930s it has been recorded that mild accounted for ¾ of all beer sold in England. Take that porter!

These days, when you can actually find one, mild is a flavourful light alcohol beer reminiscent of a brown ale. Caramel, toffee and fruity sweetness and only a mild hop character are features of this beer. The challenge is to make it light (about 3% alcohol) but not watery. A couple years ago Alley Kat did a seasonal that nailed the style. I remember doubting the label as I sipped it. Currently available in Alberta is another excellent example of this rare style: Fyne Ales Vital Spark (which is actually a Scottish brewery). This reddish-brown beer has a toasty aroma and offers a musty toffee sweetness. It has a pleasant moderately dry finish. It provides a substantial body for its slender 4.4% frame.

Southern English Brown ales are even rarer than milds – almost theoretical around these parts – so I won’t spend a lot of time on them. Basically take an English Brown Ale (which is normally considered a “Northern Brown”), cut the alcohol to under 4%, make it darker, sweeter with dark-caramel sugars and you have a southern brown. The residual sweetness makes them seem fuller-bodied, when they are not really. Some of the sweeter browns around, such as Alley Kat Amber and Half Pint’s Sweet Nikki Brown, have some characteristics of the style, but I would be hard pressed to say I ever tasted a commercial example that matches it. Still, wouldn’t it be a lovely quaff?

I leave for last what may be my personal favourite small beer: ordinary bitter. This may be the quintessential English session beer. It has all you want in a beer without the loopiness. A bitter has light malt sweetness, some distinct fruity esters and a moderate hop flavour and a noticeable bitterness. It has a refreshing dryness in the finish, but not at the expense of some upfront body. While it is a hop-accented beer, balance should be foremost in the brewer’s mind.

If we were sticklers for historical accuracy, I would inform you that bitter is only supposed to be served as real ale draught, as that is what the term originally meant. However, today we have a number of bottled versions, so I will sidestep the historical argument and offer a suggestion or two anyway. Of course, like most things in the beer world, not every beer calling itself “bitter” really is. Most are actually Special Bitter or Extra Special Bitter – which are sister styles, but bigger, thus taking them out of the small beer category. However, one beer I tried recently I believe fits the bill. Moor Revival has a wonderfully floral hop and crisp malt aroma. The flavour is akin to a blonde ale, but with a sharper hop character. Soft, floral and earthy (added to by the bottle conditioning), it is easy to drink, yet bitter enough to prevent ennui.

I admit that small beer are not easy to find. In this standardized beer world, it can be hard to find a market for a flavourful 3% beer. I find that a shame, because quite frankly I don’t always want a 8% hop-bomb. Sometimes I just want a beer that will quench my thirst while I do something else and not jeopardize my ability to drive.

But the lack of availability shouldn’t deter us from appreciating the value of small. Maybe if more people know about it, more people will call for craft brewers to try their hand at it.

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Raftman from Unibroue has always held a special place in the beer fridge of my heart, from the first sip many, many (okay, many) years ago. Sure it’s only been brewed since 1995, however when it comes to this stuff I count it off in dog years. On top of that there have been several instances when this distinctive ale hasn’t been available in Alberta, in some sort of frustrating distribution mood swing of on again off again, then on again off again once more, now on our shelves again once more and hopefully to stay for good.

Even within the fearless and esoteric realm of Belgian style beers Raftman stands out as something rare on its own merits, although remains much more approachable than many of its funkier extended family. The main difference is that Raftman is brewed with peat-smoked Whisky malt, providing it with an unexpected extra layer of depth. Forget all those beers on the market these days aged in Whisky barrels, Raftman saves the extra step and comes straight from the source. In fact it’s something of a hybrid beer, being part Belgian ale and part smoked ale, along with something you’d expect out of the Scottish Highlands rather than the heart of Quebec.

However it’s the heart of Quebec’s history that plays a key role with inspiring the concept behind this beer. It’s a tribute to the lumberjacks and log drivers of bygone centuries who worked out in logging camps for months at a time, and fueled a thriving economy. At the end of a hard day some of the few things they had to look forward to was a sip of whiskey or a swig of ale, perhaps both if they were lucky. Raftman combines the two in a rewarding fashion that you luckily don’t have to work too hard for.

As a Belgian style ale Raftman leans more towards stemware like a snifter or a tulip glass to properly serve it in, however the base of smoky Whisky malt leaves it with enough of a solid foundation to sip from a regular pint glass and not lose out on any attributes it has to offer. Also keep in mind that this is still a sipper rather than a quaffer, so feel free to serve it fairly chilled and you’re likely to experience the depth of the malt as it warms before you finish the glass. Apart from that this is an ale you can certainly serve at your own preferred drinking temperature and not miss out on anything.

Raftman will settle into the glass with a cloudy deep marmalade appearance, adorned by a tall creamy off-white head that settles slowly. Notes of bready sweet malt, faint woody smoke, spicy yeast, along with mild apricot and more zesty citrus rind will light up your olfactory senses. Once you introduce this ale to your palate you can expect some bready sweet and somewhat smoky malt up front, with a mild spicy character from the yeast in the middle, and a refreshing citrusy zip rounding out the finish. It has a medium-bodied mouthfeel that leans towards the fuller side, with a moderate level of carbonation that finishes a little brisk.

Unibroue conveniently provides a food pairing section for each of their products on their website, of which for Raftman includes suggestions such as grilled meat, smoked fish, and soft rind cheese. On top of that some nice aged cheddar also makes an amazing companion. Some Bavarian pretzels dipped in mustard also make an ideal pairing. Along the lines of German cuisine smoky, spicy brats should be taken into consideration. As are any mildly spiced dishes of your personal preference. However my favorite match with Raftman so far has been minced lamb stuffed peppers seasoned with cumin, smoked paprika and finely chopped fresh mint leaves.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Blanche De Chambly
Chambly Noire
Maudite
Ephemere
La Fin Du Monde
Trois Pistoles

Lateral Steps:
Rogue Voodoo Doughnut Maple Bacon Ale
HaandBryggeriet Norwegian Wood
HaandBryggeriet Hesjeøl
Orval
Aventinus
Ommegang Rare Vos
De Koninck Amber Ale
Hitachino Nipponia
Innis and Gunn Oak Aged Beer
Unibroue Maudite
Mikkeller It’s Alive!

Location: Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina
Blend: 50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir
Tasting: Wednesday, May 9, 2012 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m

In June of last year we were very fortunate to have Eduardo Swinnen from Norton Winery visit us on our June 1^st Winesday to sample some of his wines.  We didn’t have the Cosecha Especial at that point, but it is good timing that we sample it for Mother’s Day Winesday.

Who doesn’t like bubbles?  Sparkling wines and Champagnes are some of our favourite things to enjoy.  Don’t save them for a special occasion, because every day should be a special occasion.  This is such a food friendly wine.  It can go with potato chips (yes you read that correctly), salads, fish, chicken and so much more.

Norton Tasting Notes:

“Prominent strawberry and cranberry aromas. Fresh on the palate, young and persistent. Elegant and bubbly finish..”

CSPC:                        744729
Winesday Price: 

                $  17.99   (Includes Winesday 10% discount)

Regular Price: 

            $  19.99*

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Osborne Pedro Ximénez Sherry
‘Dark & Sweet’

Location: Jerez, Spain
Blend: Pedro Ximenez
Tasting: Wednesday, May 9, 2012 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

First of all, let’s make one thing perfectly clear.  This is not your grandmothers Sherry.  Believe me is it something else.  Every time we do a tasting with this Sherry and its sister ‘Fresh & Dry’ Sherry, they both have a shocking effect, in a good way, on customers.  Osborne is making this nice and easy for us consumers.  They have labeled this Sherry ‘Dark and Sweet’ and that is exactly what it is in a nutshell.  The Pedro Ximénez (a.k.a PX) grape is quite often referred to as the other grape from the Jerez region.  It isn’t grown in this region much anymore, but you will find it more-so in the Montilla-Moriles area.  Usually the grapes are picked and then they are left to dry.  This is done to concentrate the sweetness.  Put it this way… imagine eating a grape and then eating a raisin.  Same fruit, but totally different taste.

From Osborne:

‘Selected Pedro Ximénez grapes are laid out over traditional grass mats in the sun.  As they lose their water content the sugars become more concentrated.  The grapes are gently pressed and juice is fermented at strictly controlled temperature of 24c.  When the grape must reaches a certain sugar level a pure wine alcohol is added.  The wine is then aged in a Solera system in American Oak barrels.’  Basically, a Solera system is a type of fractional blending.

Colour:  Dark mahogany with gold and reddish highlights.  It is slightly viscous.

Bouquet:  Sweet aromas or raisins, roasted coffee, spices and oak.

Taste:  Sweet and velvety, bitter chocolate and dried plum notes.  Long and pleasant aftertaste.

It comes down to this… PX Sherries are delicious and quite addictive.  If you have never had one before, this is a great introduction for you.  To add a little more interest, you should come by and see what we are serving it with.  All we can say is ‘yummy’.  It is a classic pairing with PX Sherry.

CSPC:                        745188
Winesday Price:

$ 12.15  (Includes Winesday 10% discount)

Regular Price:

$ 13.50*

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Next Winesday is just before, as some would say, the first long weekend of the summer.  Even though it is not officially summer yet.  As a celebration, we are sampling some fun drinks.  Yes drinks.  Not wine next week.  You could say that we will be ‘Bananas Over You’.

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.” -Marcel Proust (from the beer label)

The Saison style is not quite a household name, and up until the last couple of decades it was a traditional farmhouse style of ale that was waning into the realms of extinct obscurity. Its resurgence contributes to several factors which include a greater interest in Belgian style beers, greater domestic imports of those beers, and the North American craft beer movement eager to emulate such styles in their own way.

One of the oldest mainstays for a North American rendition of Saison, and the first of this style that I ever sampled, Hennepin from Ommegang is a fantastic introduction for folks who have never tried this style, and possibly find it somewhat intimidating. Sure it may not possess some of the intricate nuances of the traditional Belgian versions currently being produced, however that does nothing to detract from its merit.

The word Saison is simply French for “season”, since this style originates in the traditionally French-speaking Southern Belgian region of Wallonia, bordering with France. Saisons were initially low alcohol pale ales brewed by farmhouses in the winter or early spring, and left to bottle-condition in order to slake the thirsts of labourers during the sweltering harvest season. Each farmhouse would produce their own particular variation, some using additives such as ginger or coriander, with the use of their own house yeast. Even in individual brewhouses the beer would change from year to year depending on what ingredients were available at the time of brewing.

As there are no clear definitive guidelines to absolutely classify traditional Saisons, contemporary ones tend to exhibit broad parameters in their own right. In general they tend to be fairly dry, perhaps with a bit of malt sweetness. Both some fruit notes and some mild spice can be expected, as is some degree of tartness and bitterness. Let’s put it this way for a starting point, imagine a well-crafted English Bitter that’s been brewed with Belgian yeast.

The namesake for this Saison from Ommegang originates from a Belgian priest and missionary who was born in Ath, situated in the Spanish Netherlands. Father Louis Hennepin of the Franciscan Recollect Order was sent to the New World on orders of the church in the 17th century. He made a name for himself as an explorer, credited as the first European to explore Niagara Falls, and exploring many areas including the Great Lakes region, right down to the Gulf Coast. Between those regions are many buildings, roads and landmarks named after the man, he really got around!

Saisons are best served with some chill still on them, so letting a bottle sit out from the fridge for about 5-10 minutes will be adequate. Stemware such a large snifter or tulip glass would be preferred, even a large red wine glass, however a pint glass will still serve the purpose adequately, or even a proper Hefe glass if you own one

The glass of your choice will fill with a hazed yet bright honey hue, capped with a tall spongy white head that will retain for quite some time. Some careful inhalations will deliver notes of soft wheat and biscuity malt, mild peppery spice, citrus rind, grassy hops, and some crisp tangy yeast. As for the flavour, expect some dry grainy malt, mild citrus and peppery spice in the middle, finishing with some orange sweetness, then settling into an earthy dry spice aftertaste. A medium-bodied mouthfeel delivers the goods, possessing a creamy smooth texture that adds an extra fullness to the overall character, and a quenching moderate pin-prickly carbonation.

When it comes to pairing food with a Saison, especially Hennepin, it would almost be easier to list off the types of food that wouldn’t go very well with it, such as mild foods that would get overwhelmed by all but the lightest of pale lagers. The Saison is incredibly versatile when matched up to different styles of food. For anything not overly spicy you have Cajun, Thai, and Indian styles for consideration. Shellfish is also perfect to serve alongside some Hennepin, from raw oysters to succulent lobster with melted butter. Keeping seafood in mind, this is also a great ale to sip alongside your sushi or sashimi. Savoury roasted birds such a chicken or duck will be enhanced, as will almost any serious barbecuing you can conjure up. More along the lines of finger food consider laying out a cheese and charcuterie platter to find your personal favourite matches. Hennepin will also have your pizza covered on all counts if you want to keep things low brow.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Three Philosophers
Belgian Pale Ale
Witte
Rare Vos
Abbey Ale

In-Style:
Saison Dupont
Brooklyn Sorachi Ace
New Morning

Lateral Steps:
Duvel
Houblon Chouffe Dobbelen IPA Tripel
DeuS
Tripel Karmeliet
La Trappe Tripel
Unibroue Blanche de Chambly

For The Adventurous:
Brasserie Cantillon Gueuze
Duchesse De Bourgogne
Verhaeghe Echte Kriek
Lindemans Faro Lambic

The history of this amazing winery dates back to the Repeal of Prohibition, which took place in 1933.  It had gone through a few name changes, but in 1976 when the ‘Chateau’ was built, the name of the winery changed to Chateau Ste. Michelle.

Through the years, the acclaim and awards have been racking up and are in such great quantity that it would be too much to put into this article.  However, click here and you can take a look at what some of the people in the know have been saying about this historic winery.

There are only a few premium wineries in the world that have two state-of-the-art wineries.  One that is for just white wines and the other winery is only used for red wines.  The white wines are made in Woodinville, near Seattle and the red wines are made at the Canoe Ridge Estate winery in Eastern Washington.  It sounds a little unusual, for sure, but having two dedicated wineries allows Bob Bertheau, Head Winemaker, to “build programs to the unique specifications of red and white wines.”

In the fall of 2009, both Cold Creek and Canoe Ridge Estate vineyards earned third party sustainable certification for LIVE and Salmon Safe.  It never hurts to take good care of Mother Nature and obviously Chateau Ste. Michelle believes in that too.[1]

People quite often ask us about how long to age a wine.  Well the Chateau Ste. Michelle website has a great plan to follow that won’t do you wrong.

Stats from Chateau Ste. Michelle:

• Columbia Valley vineyards lie in the rain shadow of the Cascade Mountains and receive just 6-8 inches of rainfall annually.
• Warm, sunny days and cool evening temperatures create ideal conditions for intense aroma and flavor development in the ripening grapes.
• Sandy soils with low fertility and low water-holding capacity enable precise control of vine growth.
• A northerly latitude gives the Columbia Valley roughly two more hours of sunlight daily during the peak-growing season than California, increasing the region’s ability to ripen fruit.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling 2010

Location: Columbia Valley, Washington, U.S.A.
Blend: 100% Riesling
Tasting: Wednesday, May 2, 2012 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m

This winery had taken the reigns when it comes to Riesling.  They are truly passionate about it and show their passion in the form of producing 10 Rieslings.  A number of years ago they partnered with the world renowned Ernst Loosen (Germany) who is famous for his Riesling.  Having them together, creates an incredible powerhouse when it comes to Riesling.

Bob Bertheau, Head Winemaker, says:

“Our Columbia Valley Riesling is a blend of Riesling from throughout Washington’s Columbia Valley. We craft it to be a refreshing, off-dry Riesling vintage after vintage. The wine delivers flavors of ripe peach and juicy pear with subtle mineral notes. This is our “every day Riesling” that is easy to match with a variety of foods.”

CSPC:                        232512
Winesday Price:

$  15.29   (Includes Winesday 10% discount)

Regular Price:

$  16.99*

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Chateau Ste. Michelle Gewürztraminer 2010

Location: Columbia Valley, Washington, U.S.A.
Blend: 94% Gewürztraminer, 4% Muscat Canelli, 2% Riesling
Tasting: Wednesday, May 2, 2012 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

If there is a grape that is known for its perfume, it would be Gewürztraminer.  Imagine the scents of:  rose petals, lychee Nivea Cream (yes you read that correctly), cinnamon, lilac and orange blossoms, citrus peel, tea, bergamot and honeysuckle.[2] That is what can be found in Gewürztraminer.  Amazing, isn’t it, how one can get all that out of a glass of wine!

Bob Bertheau, Head Winemaker at Chateau Ste Michelle, describes this wine:

“A fan favorite, this Gewürztraminer is an enjoyable wine with exuberant fruit and clove spice. This is a lush style of Gewürztraminer with a lot of floral character, yet it still maintains the grape’s natural crisp character. Try this with Thai food or any cuisine with a little “bite” to it.”

CSPC:                        746021
Winesday Price:

$ 15.29  (Includes Winesday 10% discount)

Regular Price:

$ 16.99*

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

It truly is hard to believe it is almost Mother’s Day.  In celebration of moms we have a special treat.  Two of them actually.

[2] Grapes & Wines by Oz Clarke and Margaret Rand

At Quinta do Ameal their vineyards are comprised of Loureiro (90%) and Arinto (10%) - for a total of 12 hectares - and they produce a range of four wines.  We are lucky to have one of the four wines available to us in Alberta.

The wine we are sampling this week is made from 100% Loureiro.  Not a grape that we hear a lot about on this side of the ocean.  The “Loureiro grape variety is at its most aromatic and tasty in this region of Vinho Verde. The wine is characterized by its freshness and youth, possessing a floral and fruity aroma.”[1] It is known as a higher yielding grape variety (15+ tons/hectare), but Pedro has cut the production down to 5 tons/hectare to keep the quality high.

“Although now widely disseminated throughout the Vinho Verde region, it seemed that the Loureiro grape originated in the valley of the River Lima, towards the north of the VR Minho/DOC Vinho Verde region.  ”Loureiro” means “laurel” or “bay” and the aroma of Loureiro wines is said to resemble that of laurel flowers, also orange blossom, acacia and lime blossom, overlaying appley, peachy fruit.  Loureiro wines usually have refreshing, well-balanced acidity. Loureiro is much in evidence nowadays bottled as a single variety, but traditionally it was more often blended with Arinto (Pedernã) and Alvarinho, or with Trajadura.  It is a very vigorous, high-yielding variety that has only recently been recognized as “noble”. The bunches are elongated and relatively compact, bearing medium-sized, yellowish-greenish grapes.”[2]

Quinto do Ameal
Vinho Verde 2010

Location: Ponte de Lima, Vinho Verde, Portugal
Blend: 100% Loureiro
Tasting: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m

Earth Day was on April 22, so as in years gone by, we like to feature organic wines during this time.  Quinto do Ameal has been farming organically for many years, and in 2009 they received the certification from Ecocert.  Richard and I sampled this wine just a few weeks ago and I have to say it is a lovely and refreshing wine.  We hope you enjoy it too!

Tasting Notes from the winery:

A delicate and fresh wine, with a great emphasis on its fruity and floral nose. Clear and light coloured. The wine possesses a good combination and balance of floral and fruity aromas, typical of well-ripened grapes from the Loureiro variety. It has an excellent body, a smooth, yet slightly crisp taste, a fruity palate and a persistent length.

CSPC:                        713559
Winesday Price:

$ 15.98   (Includes Winesday 10% discount)

Regular Price:

$ 17.75*

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Bodegas Los Frailes has belonged to the family Velazquez since 1771.  The Jesuit Friars originally owned the property prior to them being expelled from Spain in the confiscation of 1767 by King Carlos III of Spain.  “Four years later a written manuscript reveals that our ancestors acquired in public auction the house, lands and cellar known as “Casa Los Frailes”- Friar house.”

In 1999 Bodegas Los Frailes started ‘an ambitious project’ that included ‘reorganization of the vineyards’ and “returning to the traditional agriculture” by reconverting to organic farming.

The vineyards are located within ‘Casa Los Frailes’ domain, which is southwest of the Valence province, and just 80 Km from the Mediterranean.  “This land forms part of a marvelous spot called ‘Els Alforins’ (means ‘barn’ from Arabic roots) which has been always distinguished by its organic wine-growing heritage.”[3]

Trilogia 2007

Location: Casa Los Frailes - Fontanars Els Alforins, Valencia, Spain
Blend: Monastrell 70%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20% & Tempranillo 10%
Tasting: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

Monastrell is the Spanish name for Mourvèdre (possibly deriving its name from the town of Murviedro in Spain).  Although the grape originated in Spain, it is known more by its French name.[4] In the new world it is known as Mataro (the name of a town near Barcelona), and Esparte.  There are a few other synonyms, but this is enough to get us started.  The berries are small but thick-skinned, which can produce wines with a good bit of tannin and can be a bit heigher in alcohol.  It blends well with Grenache and Syrah (GSM), as well as, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo, as in our wine this week.

Winemaker’s Notes:

Intensive dark black cherry color.  Powerful and elegant on nose with aromas of black and red fruits, dark chocolate enriched by toasty and spicy notes. Full, powerful attack, refined tannins. In the mouth, fresh herbs and ripen fruits, coffee and well-structured with refined notes of liquorice and spicy flavours. Very persistent.

CSPC:                        733127
Winesday Price:

$21.15   (Includes Winesday 10% discount)

Regular Price:

$23.50*

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Next week we are visiting Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington.

[2] Wines of Portugal

[3] Bodegas Los Frailes

[4] Grapes & Wines

We had the pleasure of writing about the Nugan family in January 2011.  They have a diverse selection of wines ranging in price from the low teens to the high 20’s.  The ‘Vision’ wines are their next step from their single vineyard wines (Durif, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay)

Nugan Estate
Vision
Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Location: King Valley, Victoria, Australia
Blend: Sauvignon Blanc
Tasting: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m

King Valley is located in Victoria.  This is the same area where their lovely single vineyard Chardonnay comes from.

“There is a good reason Daren Owers is seen as one of Australia’s up and coming young winemakers. His wines are good, very good.  Since becoming Chief Winemaker, Daren has collected numerous Trophies from around the world. He was also the 2004 Wine Society’s Young Wine Maker of the Year (Member Choice).”

“Many are shocked to know Daren was only 26 when he was first appointed Nugan Estate’s Chief Winemaker. But those who know Daren, are aware he is a talented man, mature beyond his years, who has been mentored by Nugan Estate’s Managing Director, Michelle Nugan, since joining the business at the age of 19.”

“Now responsible for all Nugan Estate’s labels, Daren’s vision is to continue producing quality wines utilising premium fruit from the family’s vineyards in McLaren Vale, King Valley and Riverina and sourced from Coonawarra.”[1]

Nugan describes their Sauvignon Blanc:

Pale straw with a youthful green hue. Fresh, lifted aromas of lime and gooseberry fruit flavours. A medium bodied style displaying lime, grapefruit and tropical fruit flavours with citrusy fruit acids and a zesty finish.

Food Pairing:

Roasted Asparagus with Lemon and Goat Cheese; Lime and Cilantro Halibut

CSPC:                        736557
Winesday Price:

$ 17.09   (Includes Winesday 10% discount)

Regular Price:

$ 18.99*

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Nugan Estate
Vision
Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Location: Riverina, New South Wales, Australia
Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon
Tasting: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

Nugan Estate’s notes on the Cabernet Sauvignon:

Sourced from the family’s vineyards in the Riverina, New South Wales, this wine displays all the characteristics of good Australian Cabernet Sauvignon.  Appealing aromas of dark berries layered with earth, spice and vanillin oak.  On the palate, this medium-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon has rich, concentrated flavors of cassis, plum and mint with velvety tannins and a long, smooth finish

Food Pairing:

Peppercorn-Crusted Steak; Roomano Cheese (I bet you think that is a typo, but it isn’t.  Take a look at the link)

CSPC:                        736093
Winesday Price:

$17.09   (Includes Winesday 10% discount)

Regular Price:

$18.99*

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Next week we are off to the Iberian Peninsula.

Check out more of Jason Foster’s beer news and views at onbeer.org

In this space I have written of big beer, Belgian beer, experimental beer, hoppy beer, malty beer and generally the whole world of flavourful beer. Such as it should be. Particularly these days there is no shortage of opportunities to try something new and challenging, giving a guy like me a lot to talk about.

But a subject much neglected in the beer world these days is “small beer”. Everyone raves or rages against the newest Imperial IPA or Quadrupel, but rarely do we discuss the merits of a delicate beer designed for subtler moments.

Small beer is a beer designed to be lighter in alcohol (usually 3-4.5%), quieter in flavour and aiming towards easy-to-drink. Now, don’t get me wrong, I am not being a Coors Light commercial. By quieter in flavour, I mean full of flavour but just not as assertive – a beer that finds a quiet confidence. It might be hard to believe that a low alcohol beer can be infused with real beer taste, given the waterfall of Coors Light and Bud Light we must endure.

I believe there are two reasons we don’t talk about small beer. First, they aren’t as sexy. The latest single-hopped, barrel-aged, rare coffee bean-infused, sour ale jumps out at us, daring us to try them. Some well-made small beer, on the other hand, can miss our attention. Especially those of us enamoured by everything big and bold. It is like missing that smart, engaging, quietly attractive woman next door because of the bikini model across the street.

Second, there are simply fewer decent versions of them around. One part of the beer continuum that craft brewers have not been in a hurry to fill is the light lager, light ale category. We find very few examples of a well-made, attentive small beer, especially in Alberta. So it is harder to find them as well.

Which is a shame, for I can tell you that it is brutally hard to make a light alcohol beer that is still packed with flavour. Which seems like it should be perfect fodder for craft brewers. Alas, I suspect they would tell you that is a piece of the market hard for them to crack. Fair enough.

So let’s talk a bit about small beer. There are not tons of versions, but there clearly are a few. The small beer most Canadians are familiar with is the “light beer” – the lower alcohol pale lager that is a brewery’s pale lager with added water (they have admitted as much to me).Most are, surprise surprise, watery and boring, and most beer fans won’t touch them. However, there are a couple examples available in Alberta that offer the potential of what a light lager could be. Mill Street Organic Lager, while not my cup of tea, is a good example of a decent light lager.

But small beer existed long before the accountant-led North American breweries. Small beer was often the last runnings of the mash, and so an attempt to squeeze every last bit of sugary goodness out of the malt. Needless to say, the brewers of Great Britain mastered the technique early. I want to reserve the English for next time, as they deserve a column for themselves. However, their northern neighbours also knew a thing or two about small beer.

What I like about the Scottish is that, traditionally, they really on brewed one recipe, altering the amount of water to reach desired strength for that particular batch (I oversimplify, of course, but you will see my point). Scottish Ales, to be distinguished from Scotch Ale their heavy duty brother, all possess the same profile. They are all malt-accented beer, with caramel and sweetness leading, hops fairly subdued and a dry, almost smoky finish. All that differentiates them is alcohol strength and a growth in the flavour profile. They are named around their old price point and reflect the alcohol strength – 60, 70, and 80 shilling. The 60/- can be as low as 2.5%, while the 80/- might reach 5%. All, in my mind, classify as small beer, and, yet, all have a strong malt flavour and potentially enough smoke of which to take notice.

The final small beer I want to discuss today may be the most challenging – and the most rare. Berliner Weisse is an old German wheat beer that is sour, tart beer often drank for breakfast in Berlin and often described as the most refreshing beer in the world. Commonly mixed with fruit syrup or woodruff, the beer screams tart and fresh. It is the kind of beer that simply doesn’t seem like beer, yet once you taste it, you realize how wonderfully refreshing it is. Very few breweries make Berliner Weisse these days, and none are available here. However, last year Dogfish Head had their Festina Peche available, which, while not a traditional version, is inspired by the style, and certainly has a puckering, refreshing tartness.

Small beer need not be boring. It can knock your socks off just as well as any big Imperial whatever. You just have to know what to look for. Next month: the English small beer.