Style: Saison
ABV: 7.6%
Presentation: Single 750 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Brooklyn Brewery
Country: Brooklyn, New York, U.S.A.

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Boy oh boy, the Brooklyn Brewery really went and did it this time. They went and made a special edition beer that not only caught me by surprise, but stole my heart as well. On that note I’ll try to be remotely objective with the information I share with you about their Sorachi Ace Ale, but I make no promises….

If you’ve never tried a Saison before, then consider this one on the milder end of the spectrum, although still crafted with remarkable finesse. In a blind tasting it would strike me more as a Tripel or a Belgian Strong Pale Ale, but the brewery’s description of it as an “unfiltered golden farmhouse ale” doesn’t stray too far from the mark.

While this magical beer was first only available on tap as part of the Brooklyn Brewery’s Brewmaster’s Reserve Series, it is fortunate for us that they decided to switch it over to a more accessible bottle-only availability in 2010. Adding an extra dimension to the overall quality of this version that we now have access to is the full refermentation that takes place in the bottle with the addition of Champagne yeast. Over time this helps to develop some sweet nuances, a dry finish, along with an effervescent mouthfeel.

However the true star of the show is no secret at all, but lies in the name of this beer itself. It’s the deft use of single varietal Sorachi Ace hops that lend their unique character to the overall flavour. This new hybrid style of hop was originally developed by Sapporo in Japan back in 1988, and is a cross between British Brewer’s Gold hops and Czech Saaz hops. The result is a hop that provides an aroma and flavour of lemon citrus. On top of that this hop is fairly rare these days, and the Brooklyn Brewery gets their entire supply from a lone hop farm in Oregon. Talk about exclusive!

Even better, let’s talk about what this delightful ale has in store for you. Before you pop the cork on this one it’s a good idea to pick out the proper glassware. Personally I would choose stemware for this one: a tulip glass if you have one, otherwise a snifter or an oversized wine glass. Chilled would also be the prime way to serve this Saison, just not iced cold.

What greets you in the glass is a cloudy yet bright yellow hue, crowned with a massive tight rocky white head with excellent retention. The aroma is surprisingly clean for the style, exhibiting notes of crisp lemon zest and tangerine, along with dry grains, and some dry spicy and grassy hops. That clean character carries over into the flavour, with crisp grainy wheat up front blended with lemon zest, light citrus fruits throughout the middle, with mild leafy and dry spicy hops on the finish. This is all delivered by a medium-bodied mouthfeel that starts off crisp and finishes dry, with mild effervescent carbonation throughout.

The Brooklyn Brewery suggests pairing their Sorachi Ace Ale with seafood or BBQ. I certainly agree with the seafood angle, here’s a beer that can complement some sole with lemon butter amazingly, as well as cut through the sauce at the same time. The same goes for a bowl of coconut curried prawns. This is a bottle also ideal to pair with an elegant dinner of crab or lobster. Not only can you serve it along with a platter of mussels, but this Saison can be used to steam them as well. If seafood isn’t your thing, then consider some spicy sausage, either German or Italian styles, plus don’t forget Spanish chorizo. Consider preparing the sausage along with pasta and an herbed tomato sauce. Or if you don’t feel like turning on the stove serve this Sorachi Ace ale with a variety of spicy cured meats on a charcuterie platter along with some Asiago, Parmesan, Colby and Gorgonzola cheeses.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Brooklyn Pennant Ale ‘55
Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout
Brooklyn Brown Ale
Brooklyn East India Pale Ale
Brooklyn Lager
Brooklyn Local 2
Brooklyn Monster Ale
Brooklyn Pilsner
Brooklyner Weiss

In-Style:
Saison Dupont
Le Merle

Lateral Steps:
Duvel
Chimay White
Tripel Karmeliet
Pauwel Kwak
Dominus Vobiscum Blanche
Unibroue Don de Dieu
Delirium Tremens

Style: Strong Barrel-Aged Ale
ABV: 18.5%
Presentation: Single 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Alley Kat Brewing Co. exclusive for Sherbrooke Liquor
Country: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Perhaps the only thing not twisted about this beer is the beer itself!

Glenda Sherbrooke is the result of aging the Alley Kat Brewery’s Olde Deuteronomy Barleywine in barrels that once held Glen Breton Rare Whisky from the Glenora Distillery. It turns out that the folks at Alley Kat were so impressed with the final result, that they opted to start releasing their own version of it next after this special Sherbrooke edition.

This left a little creative license open for Sherbrooke’s own maestro of mirth Jim Pettinger when it came to the label, as this would now only be a one-off release for the store. It’s questionable if it could be called a moment of clarity, however in the flash of an Ed Wood minute it was decided to turn Glenn on the label of Glenn Sherbrooke into Glenda. Perhaps it’s more of a convenient coincidence than a true homage to Ed Wood’s seminal classic Glen Or Glenda?, but one way or another it was decided to let Glenn’s freak flag fly.

To my knowledge, and after several search attempts, this is also the first beer label ever to sport a crossdresser on it. I’ll warn you in advance that a Google search to verify such a thing is not for the squeamish, and tends to get off-topic rather quickly. But never let it be said that I don’t put a thorough effort into tracking down as concise information as possible for you fine readers of KANPAI!

On the topic of trailblazing, Glenda Sherbrooke doesn’t stop there. It’s also a record-breaker by being the strongest beer to be bottled in Canada at this point in time. Even globally there isn’t a large amount of beer that clocks in at 18.5%, and amongst that crowd there aren’t many that are as easily approachable as this Whisky-barrel aged Barleywine. I have to admit that this is the smoothest beer of this alcohol strength that I have yet to try, it’s very deceptive what hides beneath that skirt, er, I mean behind that label, er, well, you know what I mean….

While smooth and approachable, it certainly doesn’t detract in matters of complexity either. Far from bonking you over the head with intensity, Glenda Sherbrooke reveals itself in symphonic waves and layers that force you to pay close attention to each sniff, and each sip. Don’t let the purse and the beard on the label fool you, there is a high degree of sophistication being offered in this beer.

So without any further ado it’s time to explore what this ground-breaking beer is all about. I would highly, highly recommend serving this extra strength Barleywine in a snifter type glass, or even a tulip glass if you own one. A pint glass if you absolutely must, or don’t own anything better to serve this in. For sure let it warm up before serving as well, cellar temperature will be optimum, so allow it to sit out between 20-40 minutes, depending on your level of patience.

Glenda Sherbrooke pours out a deep hazy brown colour, with a thin creamy brown head. In the aroma to discover are vinous and sherry-like notes, along with figs, dates, currants as well as some mild wood and pipe tobacco. You may encounter even more characteristics. With a complex beer such as this the experience is unique to each different person’s palate. Personally I picked up on flavours of wood, sweet liquor, tobacco, figs, cocoa nibs, carob nut, raisins, choke cherries, dry dark malt, hints of herbal hops and lingering traces of Whisky. Also a small amount of alcohol warmth to be noticed throughout. Expect a mouthfeel that is medium-bodied, with a chewy texture that finishes silky smooth, and low carbonation.

Certainly this big yet approachable beer is one that satisfies on its own merits. Formidable beers such as this are an experience unto themselves, and quite self-contained. However if you feel like nibbling on something while consuming a snifter of Glenda Sherbrooke I do have some suggestions for you. On their own or part of a platter, some bleu cheese (Stilton, Gorgonzola, Cabrales), earthy nuts (walnuts, pecans, Brazil nuts), or dark dried fruit (raisins, dates, figs, prunes) are your best options. You can even add some high quality dark chocolate to that list. If you need something more substantial, or your carnivore tooth is getting the best of you, keep in mind some grilled red or game meat to pair with.

The next steps in the cooler:

Also From Sherbrooke:
Aaiieeeeeeeeee Caramba!
Van Helsing’s All Natural Mouthwash
Chocolate Cherry Ostiarius
Bad Hare Day
Sherbrooke Shamrock
Neapoleon
Ochsner’s 1905 Alberta Porter
KGB Imperial Stout
Heartstopper
Mojo A’Peel

Also From Alley Kat:
Alley Kat Amber
Alley Kat Aprikat
Full Moon Pale Ale
Charlie Flint’s Organic Lager
Olde Deuteronomy

Other Barrel-aged Ales:
Innis and Gunn Oak Aged Beer
Innis and Gunn Canada Day Edition 2011
Ola Dubh Special Reserve 30

Lateral Steps:
Thomas Hardy’s Ale
Mill Street Barley Wine
Fuller’s Vintage Ale

Style: Black & Tan
ABV: 4.7%
Presentation: Single 473 ml cans
Brewery: Hockley Valley Brewing Co.
Country: Orangeville, Ontario, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

It’s a beer like this that helps to completely demolish my former bias towards canned beer, and the quality of their contents. As someone who holds a degree in Glassblowing I’m partial to glass bottles on several levels, although perhaps not all of them are for fully rational reasons. After all, it’s what sits inside them that matters the most, at least when it comes to beer.

To be honest cans are superior to bottles in many ways, with the exception of refermentation. There’s a good reason it’s referred to as “bottle conditioning”. With the development of new types of coating to line the insides there is no longer the concern for your beer getting that “tinny” flavour from sitting in a can for too long. Because cans are impermeable to light they completely prevent the goodness inside going bad from being light-struck, which stems from excessive exposure to light. They are also completely sealed, which makes the beer inside impervious to oxidization and any threat of bacterial infection from outside. Unfortunately bottle caps can loosen over time and allow oxygen to slowly leech in, sometimes with airborne bacteria hitching a ride with it.

The Black and Tan is also a bit of an odd style, one which is far from traditional. It’s claimed that the term Black and Tan was coined in the late 1800’s to describe a particular beer blend that was only served at the pub. This mixture tended to involve a Stout or a Porter as the “black”, which was poured carefully to rest upon a layer of Bitter or Lager, the “tan”. Not only was this a neat looking drink, but the 2 different beers would also blend of their own accord with each sip.

Of course it’s impossible to get these same results when sampling something like this from a bottle or a can, so the two different styles used need to be deftly blended ahead of time to even come close to getting the amicable mingling that one would with the pub version.

A tricky process indeed, and Hockley manages to pull it off impressively. For their rendition of a Black and Tan they use their own Stout mixed with a light ale they produce in-house that isn’t available otherwise outside of this blend.

This ale will be right at home in your pint glass or a wide-mouthed mug, and will be at an optimum serving temperature if allowed to sit out of the fridge for about 15 minutes.

Hockley’s Black and Tan is more of a dark brown in appearance, yet when held to light will turn a more translucent garnet cola hue. There’s also a creamy, spongy beige head that will drop rather quickly. While the aroma isn’t overly complex, it is however intense and enticing with a rich toasty and nutty chocolate character. The flavour doesn’t disappoint either, and is incredibly clean. I was able to pick out notes of toasted and mild roasty malt, some nuttiness, dry wafery cocoa along with a sweeter chocolate character, and some sweet coffee. Really, it’s almost everything you could hope for in a dark ale, all rolled into one. The mouthfeel is medium-bodied, possessing a slick texture with low carbonation, yet it develops a fullness when swallowed.

With a meal this beer can easily replace dessert itself with its rich dark flavour profile. It will also enhance a bowl of ice cream, chocolate cake or a fudge brownie. For a main course stick to grilled or roasted red meats. This Black and Tan will also help tame and balance out roasted game fowl as well, matching some of the earthiness of the meat, while also balancing it out with that extra chocolate and coffee sweetness it packs.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Hockley Dark

In-Style:
Mississippi Mud

Lateral Steps:
Samuel Smith’s Nut Brown Ale
Riggwelter Yorkshire Ale
Wellington County Ale
Alley Kat Amber
Mt. Begbie Tall Timber Ale
Jamaica Stout
Samuel Smith’s Oatmeal Stout
St-Ambroise Oatmeal Stout
Cannery Blackberry Porter

For The Adventurous:
Thomas Hardy’s Ale
Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout
Rogue XS Imperial Porter
Old Engine Oil
Celebrator Doppelbock

Style: Witbier
ABV: 5%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Alley Kat Brewing Co.
Country: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Before I go any further, I’d like to take a moment here to lament the disappearance of The Lingnan’s Pi Jiu beer (by the way, Pi Jiu is simply the Chinese name for beer). This was their first house brand that they produced with the Alley Kat Brewery for the airing of the t.v. show Family Restaurant on the Food Network. I enjoyed it the first time I tried it, there were aspects of it that I just couldn’t put my finger on, and it still remains one of the best herbed beers I have yet to try. What blew me away was when I later found out that they used a Pilsner for the base of it, and not an Amber Ale style which I had initially assumed. Let me tell you folks it takes a fair amount of skill to pull off that sort of flavour profile brewing with an herb when producing a Pale Lager style, as there is no room to hide any flaws whatsoever.

From what I heard it seems this beer just didn’t really catch on with the Lingnan’s clientele, possibly because it seemed a bit too exotic or strange at first. Regardless it’s a sad loss to the local beer drinking community here in Edmonton, I know that I miss it.

However on the bright side the new Lingnan house beer that is replacing it is equally as good in its own right. I suppose that sometimes you have to lose something good in order to get something good.

Chinese New Beer was released this year to coincide with the 15 days of celebration associated with Chinese New Year. The label itself even represents the ringing in of The Year of the Rabbit, and the booting out of The Year of the Tiger, quite literally! The style for this one is a Belgian Witbier that was chosen specifically to pair well with The Lingnan’s food menu, along with being a very approachable type of beer for the common palate. While it does have a prominent orange finish reminiscent of real mandarins there are none actually present within the beer itself, I was assured that it was all pulled off by the finesse of the brewers using the traditional coriander and orange peel utilized for this particular style.

If you’re curious to try this beer it’s available at the Lingnan Chinese Restaurant when dining in, and is also available for take home consumption in 6 packs here at the Sherbrooke Liquor Store.

The beauty of Witbiers is that they are quite versatile and you have several options with which to serve this one in question. Feel free to choose a pint glass, a Pilsner glass, or your favourite piece of stemware. Perhaps let it sit about 5 minutes out of the fridge to help take the initial chill off, and you’ll be set to go.

True to style Chinese New Beer pours out a cloudy light apricot colour, with a short creamy white head that slowly settles. It gives off the aroma of soft wheat, coriander, and traces of orange. The flavour offers some soft sweet wheat, the peachy and floral character of coriander, while finishing on a quenching orange citrus note with a clean aftertaste. This is delivered by a creamy smooth medium-bodied mouthfeel accompanied by some spritzy carbonation.

Since this is the house beer for a local restaurant here in Edmonton I thought it was fitting to offer some food pairings straight from their menu. Miles Quon from The Lingnan was kind enough to provide me a shortlist of dishes that stand out most for him with the Chinese New Beer. He should know after all, he was able to try everything on the menu along with their house beer, it was inevitable. It wasn’t all in one sitting though, that’s just crazy. For people who are only feeling a little peckish, Miles vouches for any of the Dry Ribs or Spring Rolls from the Appetizers section. When it comes to main courses his top picks are the Szechuan Shrimp, the Mandarin Beef, the Black Bean Chicken and the Dry Spicy Chicken.

The next steps in the cooler:

Also From Alley Kat:
Aprikat
Full Moon Pale Ale
Alley Kat Amber
Charlie Flint’s Original Lager
Olde Deuteronomy

In-Style:
Hoegaarden Original White Ale
Unibroue Blanche De Chambly
St. Bernardus Witbier
Wittekerke
Hitachino Nest White Ale
Lost Coast Great White
Mill Street Wit
DDC Rosée d’hibiscus

Lateral Steps:
Lost Coast Tangerine Wheat
Erdinger Weissbier
Edelweiss Snowfresh Weissbier
Duvel

For The Adventurous:
Delerium Tremens
Chimay White
Tripel Karmeliet
Gouden Carolus Tripel

Style: Pumpkin Ale
ABV: 5.7%
Presentation: 633 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Baird Brewing Company
Country: Numazu, Japan

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Pumpkin Ales are an American style of beer that date back to the 1600’s. While the gourd-like vegetable benefits a beer several ways with its fermentable sugars, it’s typically the spice mixture used to bake with pumpkin that adds the tell-tale signature flavour to this particular style.

Leave it to a brewery in Japan to take this style and tip it on its ear. Okay, perhaps nothing that drastic, but they do take it and put a localized stamp on it. The Baird Brewing Company has been around since March of 2000, and is run by a husband and wife team who over the past decade have carved out a unique niche within the Japanese craft beer market. A Japanese version of Pumpkin Ale is far from being the odd duck within this brewery’s solid line up, yet it certainly stood out for me.

Some purists may push to categorize this as a more generic style Vegetable Beer, but to me the shoe fits nearly well enough otherwise. The kabocha within the name of this beer is the eponymous vegetable in question. It’s a Japanese variety of winter squash that resembles a green-skinned pumpkin, yet the flesh is sweeter than even butternut squash. Most circles refer to it as a Japanese pumpkin. Heck, in some Asian cultures it’s even considered an aphrodisiac! The kabocha used in this particular beer comes straight from the local garden of a friend of the brewers, adding an extra personal element to the final product.

While Country Girl Kabocha Ale is not listed as one of the Baird Brewery’s regular seasonal beers, they have been producing it every Fall for the past 9 years now. It gains its complexity from the use of 5 different types of malt, 3 separate hop varieties, as well as several additions of the kabocha throughout the brewing process itself: once during the mashing of the malts, then again during the actual kettle boil, along with a small amount at priming to referment once in the bottle.

For such a wonderful and unique beer this is one that tends to be a bit of a wallflower up on the shelves, and can unfortunately be easily overlooked. Although it comes in a big brown bottle, the actual label for it is just a generic Baird Brewery logo, with no mention of what this beer actually is, until you flip the bottle around and read the small English print on the back label. In fact when I first bought this beer I had absolutely no idea what it really was or what to expect, it really was one of those random stabs in the dark that us beer aficionados tend to take from time to time. Or at least those of us who like to live dangerously… That fact that this Japanese Pumpkin Ale caught me by surprise and I enjoyed it so much as a result is one of the major motives for me sharing all this information with you as well, this is one diamond in the rough worth seeking out!

When the search is over and it comes down to finally serving this unique beer, your best bet is you’re trusty pint glass, or a mug if extra gripping options are to your liking. Somewhat chilled is the temperature zone to aim for, so consider letting the bottle sit out around 15-20 minutes before you pop the top and pour.

That pour will reveal a hazy deep amber body, topped with a tall creamy beige head. There is some sweet bready and caramel malt on the nose, accompanied with an equally sweet squash-like character, with mild earthy spices in the background most likely from the hops. The flavour tends to match up fairly closely. To start is a sweet cake-like malt, followed with sweet squash notes in the middle, and balanced out by a spicy, earthy bitterness on the finish. Rounding everything out is a mouthfeel that is on the full side, with a creamy thick texture and moderate carbonation.

For a food pairing perhaps consider a well-herbed pot roast with a side of sweet potato or butternut squash. The sweetness of the malt will be able to match the intensity of medium heat dishes from the Cajun, Tex-Mex, Indian, Thai and Vietnamese styles. If you have something even more exotic in mind the malt of Country Girl Kabocha will hold its own with the earthy nature of game birds, while the earthy sweetness of the kabocha compliments it. However if dessert is the course you’re saving yourself for go with your favourite spice cake, or even a rich carrot cake.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Angry Boy Brown Ale
Dark Sky Imperial Stout
Jubilation Ale
Kurofune Porter
Numazu Lager
Red Rose Amber Ale
Rising Sun Pale Ale
Shimaguni Stout
Shizuoka Summer Mikan Ale
Suruga Bay Imperial IPA
Teikoku IPA
Temple Garden Yuzu Ale
West Coast Wheat Wine
Yabai Yabai Strong Scotch Ale

In-Style (seasonal):
Dogfish Head Punkin Ale
Brooklyn Post Road Pumpkin Ale
Alley Kat Pumpkin Pie
St-Ambroise Citrouille
Red Racer Pumpkin Ale

Style: Fruit Ale
ABV: 5%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Yukon Brewing Company
Country: Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

While the name’s been changed and the packaging has gone through a pleasant face-lift, Yukon Brewing has been producing their Cranberry Wheat Ale full time since May of 2004, and as a Fall seasonal previous to that. Fortunately for us they have kept the recipe the same. Well, for the most part.

The original seasonal version of this beer first appeared in 2002 and was made only with local cranberries from within the Yukon. However as the demand for the beer rose, Yukon Brewing had to compromise and start bringing in the berries from outside of the province to brew with. I would still consider this the high road, as they didn’t succumb to switching to artificial flavouring instead.

The new name for this Cranberry Wheat Ale stems from a small local tributary in the south part of the Yukon that starts in the Big Salmon Range of the Pelly Mountains, and drains into Lake Teslin. It’s a clear water stream that houses many beavers and the occasional spawned salmon, while the most exciting part of it just happens to be its name. And you have to admit that Deadman Creek Cranberry Wheat rolls off the tongue quite well. Much more than, say, Brook’s Brook which lays a bit north of Deadman….

All that aside, let’s get back to the beer itself, which stands on its own regardless of fancier names and packaging. I know this has remained a favourite of mine among the fruit beers on the market, mainly because of its deft use of fruit which works with the overall character of the beer, rather than making it “fruity”. Many people make a bit of a bitter face when they try to fathom the taste of a cranberry beer, however after trying Deadman Creek they’re hard pressed to point out exactly where it is. That’s because it blends in so well with the beer and helps enhance it, rather than dominate it.

What happens is that the fruity tartness helps to balance out the tangy zip from the unfiltered yeast and adds an extra dimension to the soft subtle citrus character of the base wheat malt. The result has the cranberries taking the place of the bitterness that would normally stem from the hops.

The serving of this Cranberry Wheat Ale lies fairly open to personal preference, however I would suggest a Pilsner glass or a pint glass. While it will prove to be very refreshing when served fairly chilled, it will still quench as it slowly warms up. Perhaps let it sit out 5-10 minutes before pouring.

Since this is an unfiltered Wheat Ale, it appears as a hazy apricot colour with a spongy white head. A couple of inhalations will introduce some mild spicy, herbal notes, dry wheat and a hint of tartness from the cranberries. In the flavour is a balance between crisp wheat and some bready malt up front, finishing with some berry tartness and grassy hops. The mouthfeel lends a medium-bodied character, with a moderately spritzy carbonation.

While I consider this an ideal beer to help quench your thirst outdoors during the hotter months, there’s always the option to serve it along with food. Being both a wheat-based and a fruit beer your best bet is to stick to the book-ends of the meal: starters or appetizers, and desserts. Deadman Creek will do an excellent job matching a vinaigrette used on any salad, while it contains enough zip to cut through heavier, creamier dressings. On the flip side you’ll also find amply suitable pairing options with fruit based desserts, whether they are citrus or berry based. For a more substantial pairing option try some sole or halibut garnished with some lemon. Or a pork roast. There’s also a cheese omelette to keep in mind if you’re into having a beer with a late brunch.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Yukon Gold
Yukon Red
Midnight Sun Espresso Stout
Discovery Ale
Ice Fog IPA
Lead Dog Ale

In-Style:
Unibroue Éphémère
St-Ambroise Apricot Wheat Ale
Samuel Smith’s Organic Strawberry Fruit Beer
Liefmans Cuvee-Brut

Lateral Steps:
Wild Rose Velvet Fog
Edelweiss Snowfresh
Hoegaarden
Lost Coast Great White
Hitachino Nest White Ale

Style: Cajun Dunkelweizen
ABV: 6.5%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Alley Kat Brewing Co. exclusive for Sherbrooke Liquor
Country: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

“Yes, we have no bananas.”

Once again I must offer full disclosure that this beer was an original concept of mine and that I had played a part in its production, although not in the final production of it. It’s even foggy in my recollection what initially set things in motion for it to get to that point. In fact Mojo A’Peel was supposed to be something else completely in the beginning—in fact two something else’s if the truth be told—however this was agreed by all involved as the most feasible concept to pursue.

While we are very fortunate to have such a large selection of beer here in Alberta to choose from (over 900 different kinds as of this writing), there are some styles that are in rather short supply as far as options are concerned. In a “Eureka!” moment I had realized that in general Dunkelweizens were not represented on local shelves in large numbers, and that it could be somewhat tailored after Bananas Foster with a little tweaking and without the use of any expensive or exotic extra ingredients.

For those not in the know, Bananas Foster is a dessert that was invented in 1951 at Brennan’s Restaurant in New Orleans, and has been part of the Cajun culinary repertoire ever since. I once had a friend from New Orleans, an absolutely amazing cook in her own right, who had first introduced me to this decadent combination of Southern comfort. Quartered bananas are flambéd in a sauce comprised of butter, dark rum, banana liqueur, brown sugar and cinnamon, and then quickly served over vanilla ice cream. It may sound like kind of a crazy mixture at first, but trust me, it works!

Unlike with the Heartstopper Stout, I didn’t formulate a preliminary recipe. Instead I sat down with Neil Herbst of the Alley Kat Brewery one day and discussed what kind of flavour profile we were looking for, and from what ingredients we would expect to get them from. To his well-deserved credit Neil hit the ground running with this project, and it was the initial recipe he formulated for the brew that we ended up using for the final production of it. I was invited back to Alley Kat for the brewing of the test batch which was a great experience, however for the most part involved watching Neil do what he does best, and being subject to his gracious hospitality.

In straying away from the traditional version of a German Dunkelweizen we lightened the malt bill up a bit to help provide a more caramelized character and colour rather than the traditional dark bready malt that usually adds more chocolaty notes. Contributing to the beery translation of the flambé sauce was an addition of Demerara brown sugar to do some double duty: as not only is brown sugar one of the key ingredients of Bananas Foster, but typically brown sugar ferments out in darker beers to produce something of a rummy flavour too. Now since vanilla beans are pretty darn expensive, we opted for the second best option, that of bourbon vanilla extract, which was added right before bottling to cover the ice cream aspect of the dessert.

At this point you’re probably asking, “Yeah, yeah, but what about the bananas?” And there’s not much I can tell you about any actual bananas used to make this beer. You see, the major reason I chose the Dunkelweizen style to tailor was that the yeast itself is capable of providing all the banana flavour necessary. The technical term is “ester”, which applies to any fruit-like flavours found in a beer when no actual fruit has been added. Utilizing this particular strain of yeast and fermenting the Mojo A’Peel at a higher temperature Alley Kat was able to accentuate the expected banana character in the beer, and show of some technical finesse without having to add an extra ingredient.

So then, another behind the scenes look for you all to see the inner workings of how a somewhat far out beer concept becomes a working reality. I swear I just don’t come up with the craziest idea I can fathom in order to see if it’ll turn out or not, there is a great deal of method behind the madness before something like this gets the green light and the go ahead.

A quick word on the label. Personally I had nothing to do with the illustrator that was selected for this label, however it was Scott Shaw! Who was chosen to pinch hit when regular Sherbrooke label artist John Keane was unavailable at the time. And what an illustrator to choose, as Scott certainly lives up to the exclamation mark in his name! Some of the highlights from his lengthy resume are being involved in over 100 t.v. commercials for Post’s Cocoa and Fruity Pebbles, along with doing box artwork for the cereals as well; designing several lines of Simpson’s figures for McFarlane Toys; and winning 4 Emmy Awards for his work on Jim Henson’s Muppet Babies cartoon from back in the 80’s. So I am quite flattered for the association alone with my beer recipe idea.

On to the actual beer now. A pint glass or a mug is your best bet in a pinch, while a Weizen glass would be a first pick if you own one. You’ll want to sample this one chilled, although not ice cold, and different characteristics will come out as it warms.

It pours out a cloudy caramel colour, with a tall smooth spongy light beige head. With a regular Dunkelweizen you would still expect the cloudiness, however the colour would be a dark brown instead. In the aroma expects notes of bananas, a sweet caramel character, with some faint woody vanilla in the background. Thee flavour will also present some banana and caramel at first, with the banana becoming more pronounced in the middle along with some mild nuttiness, finishing with some mild sweet vanilla. Delivering this is a smooth mouthfeel with a medium body and moderate carbonation.

Mojo A’Peel is certainly quite a rich beer, and one at a time may be enough to get your fill of it. Of course on its own this will make an excellent dessert beer to help finish off a meal, the goal was Bananas Foster in a bottle. Ice cream would be my first pairing suggestion, vanilla being the most obvious, followed by a nut or maple flavour. There’s even a brand of ice cream that has two fellow’s names on it that produces a Bananas Foster flavour, if you’re in the mood to double down. Other desserts such as cakes, squares or tarts that feature nuts are also good options. Along those lines a nutty variety of cheese is a good choice for those feeling peckish but not in the mood for dessert. However for a full meal consider pairing mild to medium spiced curries, sausages or a charcuterie platter of spicy cured meats, or even a dish of smoked or maple glazed salmon.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Alley Kat Amber
Alley Kat Aprikat
Full Moon Pale Ale
Charlie Flint’s Organic Lager
Olde Deuteronomy

Also From Sherbrooke:
Sherbrooke Shamrock
Bad Hare Day
Chocolate Cherry Ostiarius
Aaiieeeeeeeeee Caramba!
Van Helsing’s All Natural Mouthwash
Heartstopper
Glenn Sherbrooke
Glenda Sherbrooke
Neapoleon

Dunkelweizens:
Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier Dunkel
Erdinger Weissbier Dunkel
Leavenworth Boulder Bend Dunkelweizen

Lateral Steps:
König Ludwig Weiss
Ayinger Celebrator Doppelbock
Samichlaus

Style: English Strong Ale
ABV: 8.3%
Presentation: Single 330 ml clear bottle, in a special edition box
Brewery: Innis & Gunn
Country: Scotland, UK

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

The good folks at the Scottish brewery of Innis & Gunn have spoiled us Canadians over the past few years, however in the proper context it’s been well deserved. Canada is the largest global export market for their fine products, and in our own way Canadian beer drinkers have helped to make Innis & Gunn what it is today.

2009 saw the first release of a Canadian Cask edition, which saw the addition of some rye malt, and was aged in Canadian Rye Whiskey barrels. The following Canada Day celebrations in 2010 saw a second release of this ale. While I enjoyed them, I admit that they personally didn’t wow me like the original Innis & Gunn Oak Aged Beer, or their Rum Cask Edition. My theory is that Rye Whiskey just doesn’t have the fullness and complexity of character that other varieties of Whiskies exhibit. As a result there wasn’t as much character from the barrels to be passed along to the beer maturing inside them.

However this new edition for 2011 is a brand new incarnation. Gone is the plain red cardboard box the former 2 editions came in, and the replacement exhibits artwork by Canadian artist Deborah Colvin. Over 50 different entries were juried by the brewery, which were submitted by members of the Society of Canadian Artists to earn this place of honour.

It seems to me that the recipe itself has also received a bit of an overhaul. A very successful and delicious overhaul. The addition of Munich malt provides it a pronounced toffee-like flavour, while the presence of earthy Fuggles hops is apparent on the finish, and offers a wonderful balance to the overall profile. Marrying this all together is maturation back into Bourbon oak barrels, rather than the Rye Whiskey of the previous two editions.

The final result is easily my favourite of the Innis & Gunn special editions—well, save for their exceptional Highland Cask special edition, but that’s a whole other story.

A snifter will help highlight more of the nuances found in this patriotic special edition, yet you’re still okay with your trusty pint glass. I would suggest letting this sit out perhaps 10 minutes at least to help remove some of the chill.

This Canada Day 2011 Edition pours out a clear rich rustic amber hue, with a tall creamy off-white head that slowly settles. On the nose are rich caramel and oak notes, joined by some spicy, earthy hops. Now the flavour is quite an experience. I was able to pick out rich caramel and toffee up front, some brown sugar, a rum and raisin character in the middle, while vanilla starts to rise near the finish. The finish itself exhibits some dates and leafy herbal hops. Vanilla coats the lips after a while. The mouthfeel is medium-light with a slick silky texture, and low carbonation.

Your options are quite varied when choosing food to pair with this ale. Be it pork, beef, chicken or lamb, a succulent roast is a primo option. Some grilled red meat is by no means a far second place choice either. Nutty and soft cheese will offer you an excellent pairing if you’re looking more for a finger food option. Or if you plan on serving this on Canada Day itself, you can’t get more patriotic than grilled salmon with a maple glaze.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Innis & Gunn Oak Aged Beer
Blonde Lightly Oaked Beer
Rum Cask Oak Aged Beer

In-Style:
Ola Dubh Special Reserve 12
Ola Dubh Special Reserve 16
Ola Dubh Special Reserve 30

Lateral Steps:
Lagunitas Brown Shugga’
Wellington Iron Duke
Yukon Lead Dog Ale

For The Adventurous:
Fuller’s Vintage
Chimay Blue
DDC Péché Mortel
BrewDog Paradox

Style: Hefeweizen
ABV: 5.4%
Presentation: Single 500 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Bayerische Staatsbrauerei Weihenstephan
Country: Freising, Germany

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Authentic German Wheat Ales can offer a bit of a challenge at first for people who aren’t familiar with them and don’t know what to expect. Predating the mild and rather neutral North American variety by hundreds and hundreds of years, there is no question which holds the true pedigree between them. The general North American Wheat Ale tends to be made from half wheat and barley malt (give or take) and is fermented with typical ale yeast. In contrast German Wheat Ales, especially the unfiltered Hefeweizens, gain the majority of their flavour and aroma from a unique strain of brewing yeast that the Bavarians have been specifically cultivating for almost a thousand years.

Generally offering an aroma and flavour with varying degrees of banana and clove present, Hefeweizens can also have mild notes of vanilla, bubblegum, and sometimes nuts within the overall character. By working with the malted wheat present the yeast also develops a mild tart citrus aspect on its own, adding to the subtle complexity already in play. No need to add a lemon wedge upon serving whatsoever.

After taking all of that in mind, it can be quite a shock to the system when you take a sip and encounter an unexpected member of the fruit bowl and another unexpected member from the spice rack blending across your palate. Once upon a time when I unwittingly tried my first German Hefeweizen, unaware that such a thing even existed, I thought my beer had gone bad! I wasn’t wholly ignorant, as I’d at least been drinking British Ales from the start, but this is already foreign territory in comparison, and not just geographical. So then, at least you know what you’re getting yourself into here.

I can’t think of a better place to start either. We are truly blessed to have Weihenstephaner available here in the province. It’s one of the most lauded and sought out Hefeweizens in the world, and one of the most popular. I think what puts it in that position is the fact that it’s balanced and not too intense.

The only truly bold thing about this beer is the claim that is made of the brewery that produces it, declaring to be the oldest continuously operating brewery in the world. The Weihenstephen Abbey was once a Benedictine monastery that was founded 725 A.D., and brewing started on this site in 768. However it wasn’t until that brewing facility was licensed to the city of Freising in 1040 that a founding date for the modern brewery is applied. Even still, what does the dispute of 272 years really matter between friends when you are dealing with a timeline that stems that far back? The date of 1040 A.D. is still incredibly impressive, and quite an achievement.

I honestly couldn’t fathom not drinking this from an authentic Weizen glass (you know, the super-sized version of a Pilsener glass, only a foot high), however I understand they can be a bit difficult to come by. It’s not called a trusty pint glass for nothing, so if that’s only what you have on hand, then it’ll do if necessary. After all, this Weizen is tasty enough that it’d still taste good out of a mason jar or a dog bowl (granted that you washed them first). Allowing this Hefeweizen to warm at least 10 minutes is also recommended.

Weihenstephaner will pour out a cloudy marmalade hue, capped by a tall chunky frothy white head. The aroma makes good with sweet bready malt, along with equally mild doses of spicy cloves, vanilla, and candied banana. The flavour is also very clean for this style, starting with soft light bready malt, then light vanilla in the middle, while the duo of banana and clove rise up on the finish as well, although the banana tens to linger on into the aftertaste. This is all transported by a quenching medium-light mouthfeel with soft carbonation.

The brewery suggests pairing their Wheat Ale with veal sausage if you’re feeling a bit decadent. Goat cheese goes exceptionally well with this beer, as does Brie. Grilled fish, smoked meats and cured ham are also fine options to consider when planning a meal to accompany the Weihenstephaner. Or if you don’t feel like cooking some Chinese take-out with dishes involving lemon or sesame based sauces will help demonstrate the finer advantages of East meets West.

The next steps in the cooler:

In-Style:
Paulaner Hefe-Weissbier
Ayinger Bräu Weisse
Schneider Weisse Original
Hacker-Pschorr Hefe Weisse
König Ludwig Weiss
Erdinger Weissbier

Other Hefes:
Brooklyner Weisse
Hitachino Nest Weizen
Tree Hefeweizen

American Pale Wheat Ales:
Rogue Somer Orange Honey Wheat
Wild Rose Velvet Fog
Grizzly Paw Grumpy Bear Honey Wheat

Lateral Steps:
Hoegaarden Wit
Delirium Tremens
Unibroue Don de Dieu
Erdinger Weissbier Dunkel

Style: Belgian Pale Ale
ABV: 6.2%
Presentation: Single 330 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Brasserie d’Orval S.A..
Country: Villers-devant-Orval, Belgium

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Orval is undoubtedly the most unique of the Trappiste Ales traditionally being produced today, and I would dare say that title would encompass the secular Abbey Ales as well. From the unique bowling pin shaped bottle to the contents found inside, this is a Belgian Ale that sets its own precedent, and it is truly one of a kind.

Speaking of which, of all the producers of Trappiste Ales, Orval stands out by only producing one type of beer, and one beer only. It also carries the significance of being the oldest of the brewing monasteries, although the present modern brewery was set up in 1931.

Just as unique as the ale in the spotlight is the legendary story behind the creation of the monastery itself. As it goes an 11th century noblewoman and widow, the Duchess Mathilda of Tuscany, accidently dropped the wedding ring of her lost beloved down a well. Distraught at the loss and not knowing what else to do, she began to pray. To back up her sincerity she vowed to build a monastery on that site if only she could retrieve her lost treasured possession. At that moment a trout broke the surface of the water with the golden ring in its mouth and offered it back to the Duchess. She exclaimed, “Truly this place is a Val d’Or!” (which means Valley of Gold), and followed through with her divine promise of gratitude.

This is how Orval acquired not only its name, but also the logo of a fish with a ring in its mouth. The monastery itself has gone through its fair share of issues and adversity in its lengthy tenure spanning a millennium, however besides the production of beer this monastery carries a healthy reputation for producing artisanal cheese that is even exported to surrounding countries. In keeping with the practice of being a good member of the community, all the profits Orval makes from its beer sales are donated to charities or towards local community development projects.

For those who are into collecting glassware or gift packs, Orval has its own special chalice that is available from time to time. I strongly suggest serving this in some form of stemware, like a snifter or large red wine glass if you don’t own any Belgian chalices or tulip glasses. About 15 minutes is a magic number to allow it to warm before serving; a happy medium between retaining some chill and releasing the earthy and spicy notes.

A tall fluffy white meringue head will crown a cloudy light-amber body once you transfer this to a glass. While subtle and complex at the same time, some character you should be able to detect in the aroma will be a tart sharpness, some herbal and citrus notes, along with an earthy bit of funk. Extended focus will reveal even more hidden in there waiting to be discovered. The dry earthiness and sharp tartness also extend over into the flavour, along with spicy notes, finishing with a tangerine and lemon citrus character. Once again, this is just scratching the surface, but at least you know what you’re getting yourself into at this point. Things are round out by a light, dry, mildly carbonated mouthfeel.

Orval pairs very well with fish that has been prepared with some sort of citrus marinade or sauce. This is equally applied to salads tossed in a zesty vinaigrette. It also tends to have all the bases covered when served with the complex flavours found in Thai cuisine. Personally I would go along the lines of pan-seared scallops served over wild rice with a drizzle of lemon, or lobster ravioli garnished with parmesan. Aged sharp Cheddar will make a decent lone cheese pairing to nibble on.

The next steps in the cooler:

Other Trappiste Ales:
Chimay Blue
Chimay Red
Chimay White
Koningshoeven Tripel Ale
Koningshoeven Quad Ale
Westmalle Dubbel
Westmalle Tripel
Achel Blonde
Achel Bruin
Rochefort 6
Rochefort 8
Rochefort 10

In-Style:
Leffe Blonde
De Koninck
DDC Dernière Volonté

Lateral Steps:
Cantillon Iris
Lindemans Faro Lambic
Duchesse De Bourgogne
Mikkeller It’s Alive
Lagunitas A Little Sumpin’ Wild

For The Adventurous:
Thomas Hardy’s Ale
Mikkeller Beer Geek Brunch (Weasel)
Lagunitas Hop Stoopid