Washington has been a popular place for us to visit this summer. As well it should, actually. There are a lot a great wines coming out of this area, but so many people are still not aware that wine is made here. We mentioned in a previous article that in 2009 the State of Washington registered its 600th winery. The news now is that there are over 650 wineries. That is amazing growth! That is a long way up from the first vines that were planted in Fort Vancouver, Washington by the Hudson’s Bay Company in 1825. To give you a good idea how this area has grown in wine production, in 1987 the state harvested 46,000 tons of grapes and in 2006 that had jumped to 120,000 tons.

CHARLES SMITH WINES

K Vintners was the first, then came The Magnificent Wine Company and now Charles Smith Wines. Charles Smith is the heart and soul of all three. I love how they describe Charles on his websites:

“Owner-winemaker Charles Smith with his big hair, kick ass attitude and bold packaging arrived in the Walla Walla Valley following eleven years in Scandinavia managing rock bands.”

That just says it all. This man is shaking up the wine world with his attitude and his wines that are think out of the box. He calls his wines names like… BOOM BOOM! Syrah, Kung Foo Girl Riesling, K Syrah, M.C.K. (Motor City Kitty). His philosophy is “It’s just booze – drink it.” After all, that is what we really want to do, right!

It truly is amazing what he has done over the past decade. Here is a man who has never taken a wine course and has never had formal training in wine making. However, he has been around the wine industry ‘both personally and professionally all of his life. Charles is making all kinds of headlines for his wines. In 2009 Wine Enthusiast Magazine gave him 100 points for his 2006 Royal City Syrah and #2 on their Top 100 Wines of 2009.

Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, October 2009 said: “When it comes to his wines, the otherwise wild and irrepressible Charles Smith is as serious as a heart attack.” In 2008 this was also written in The Wine Advocate “K Vintners (Charles Smith Wines) is where the larger-than-life Charles Smith presides. He is an innovator, marketing genius, outspoken, you name it – but above all the man is a brilliant winemaker who knows where all the great fruit is hidden.”

The 2008 Annual Buying Guide of Wine & Spirits Magazine bestowed “Winery of the Year upon them. In April 2010 Seattle Magazine also gave Charles the title of “Winemaker of the Year”. To say that he has come far in this last decade would be the preverbal understatement of the year… or should I say decade.

Winery: Charles Smith Wines
Vintage: 2007
Location:Columbia Valley, Washington, U.S.A.
Alcohol: 13%
Blend: 100% Single Vineyard Pinot Gris
Tasting: Wednesday, September 1, 2010 - 4:00 – 7:00 p.m.

The grapes for this wine come from one single vineyard called Evergreen.
Generally speaking, Pinot Gris - produces a light to medium-bodied white wine. It can also produce some lovely more full-bodied wines, especially from Alsace, France. It should have nice aromas with a wee bit of a floral nose. Pinot Gris is one of the four “noble grapes” of Alsace.

This wine leaves you wanting for more. It is refreshing. It is crisp and has nice minerality to it. The floral is there with the scent of rose petals. The fruit… all the stone fruits are evident. An easy drinking wine that is going to pair with some nice food.

Food Pairing:

Seafood pasta; Smoked Cheese; Sheep’s Milk Cheese; Prosciutto; Mildly Spicy food.

Price:

$18.99 (Minus Winesday 10% discount.)

*Price correct at time of printing. Price subject to change without notice.

Wing away with us next week. Richard and I are off to taste some organic wines from Argentina.

Style: Robust Porter
ABV: 5.6%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Alley Kat Brewing Co. exclusive for Sherbrooke Liquor
Country: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

It’s that time again when Sherbrooke annually releases another recipe by the winner of the Homebrewer of the Year title from the Aurora Brewing Challenge, hosted by the Edmonton Homebrewers Guild. Commercially produced by the talented folks at the Alley Kat Brewery of course.

The winners this year were the local powerhouse homebrewing duo of Ray Duperron and Patrick Doyle, who also brought home the national award of Canadian Homebrewer of the Year, and apparently won by a pretty wide margin.

It will then come as no surprise that Ochsner’s 1905 Alberta Porter, based on one of their recipes, is a phenomenal beer; it’s honestly been a while since a beer has impressed me this much, let alone a Porter. This was brewed as a Robust Porter under the BJCP guidelines. The Beer Judge Certification Program is the governing institution that oversees homebrewing competitions such as the Aurora Brewing Challenge.

Just as a quick refresher, for the past 3 years now Sherbrooke has carried an exclusive batch of beer made by the local Alley Kat Brewery based on a recipe chosen by whoever ends up winning Edmonton’s Homebrewer of the Year award through the ABC competition. It’s a way of providing some recognition and support to amateur brewers, and frankly is a pretty darn good incentive to get homebrewers from across the country to enter this locally organized competition.

This year’s release was timed to coincide with and commemorate the province of Alberta’s 105th anniversary. The surname on the label of this beer is an homage to German immigrant Robert Ochsner and his wife Elizabeth, who opened what could be argued as the first brewery here in Edmonton back in 1894. Although not much is known about the Ochsners, it’s recorded that Robert took care of the business end of operations. It was Elizabeth who did all the brewing as head Brewmistress, the first female brewer in the province, and eventually earned some small local recognition with the designation of the Bohemian Maid. While the brewery changed hands and names over the years it did end up being called The Bohemian Maid in the late 1950’s. Elizabeth is credited with brewing 5 different styles of beer, including a Porter of some repute.

Which brings us back to our Porter in question. It’s my opinion that we don’t have a large enough selection of decent Porters here in Alberta, and as a result it’s an often confused and misunderstood style that tends to get overlooked. Hopefully this Porter will receive enough of a warm reception to be put into regular production after this inaugural batch.

Glassware is pretty much your choice on this one, it’s robust enough to be the one calling the shots regardless of shape or size. So grab your favourite glass. There’s also going to be a lot of flavour present even when it’s just been pulled out of the fridge, so once again I’ll leave the serving temperature up to your personal preference. Of course as it warms new facets within the aroma and flavour will be released. As this isn’t the type of style that you chug down in a few gulps, you’ll most likely get the chance to experience this.

Even though it’s not opaque (yet it certainly gives off that impression), this Porter is still a dense black, and will exhibit a brilliant ruby nimbus around the extremities if held up to direct light. Be prepared for a couple possible attempts to fill up your glass as well, as there is a massive frothy beige head from the pour. Lots of dark aromas will be received on the nose, layers of burnt malt, some toasted malt, wood, slight acidity, and when it warms up starts to reveal some espresso and cocoa. Things continue along these lines within the flavour, starting with some roasted malt with wood and earthy notes, some soft coffee and chocolate in the middle along with bittersweet acidity, then finishing with a sharp dry burnt malt character. As would be expected the mouthfeel is full, with a surprising amount of refined carbonation which scrubs the palate with each sip, keeping the more intense flavours in check between sips. A very well put together beer, credit must be given to Ray and Patrick for coming up with such a solid recipe, along with the crew at Alley Kat for replicating it to a commercial sized batch.

If exploring this Porter works up an appetite in you then grilled dishes would make a large varied option to serve alongside. Be it steak, pork or chicken, the smoke and char will match well. Another good option would be a plate of sausage and sauerkraut, as the acidity in the Porter and the sauerkraut will play off one another nicely. For something a little more exotic the complex flavours within a good mole sauce will accentuate the layers of dark flavour within this beer. And if you’re partial to more gamey meats they’ll be tamed by the robust characteristics that this Porter has to offer.

The next steps in the cooler:

Other Beers From Sherbrooke:
Sherbrooke Shamrock
Bad Hare Day
Aaiieeeeeeeeee Caramba!
Van Helsing’s All Natural Mouthwash
Chocolate Cherry Ostiarius
Neapolean

Other Beers From Alley Kat:
Alley Kat Amber
Alley Kat Aprikat
Full Moon Pale Ale
Charlie Flint’s Original Lager
Pumpkin Pi Spiced Ale
Olde Deuteronomy

In-Style:
Rogue Mocha Porter
Mill St. Coffee Porter
Fuller’s London Porter
Samuel Smith’s Old Taddy Porter
Paddock Wood London Porter

Lateral Steps:
Lost Coast Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout
Samuel Smith’s Imperial Stout
DDC Peche Mortel
St-Ambroise Oatmeal Stout
Half Pints Stir Stick Stout
Yukon Brewing Midnight Sun Espresso Stout
Paddock Wood Bête Noire

Style: Herbed/Spiced Hefeweizen
ABV: 5%
Presentation: Single 330 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Hofbräu Kaltenhausen
Country: Hallein, Austria

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

“If you really love me you will bring me Edelweiss!” So went the chorus of the one-hit-wonder dance track of the late 1980’s, to the tune of ABBA’s “SOS” no less. That being said it still runs through my head every time I reach for another bottle of this special little beer that is now brewed at the foot of the Alps in Austria near Salzburg. Never have I come across such an enjoyable and easy drinking ale that also keeps me guessing and as of yet hasn’t let me completely pin it down.

To begin with this starts out as a light traditional German-style wheat beer, and utilizes that particular special strain of ale yeast to produce it. But then the tables turn a bit with the addition of an unknown blend of Alpine herbs to the whole mix, transforming this into a bit of an Austrian interpretation of a Belgian Witbier as well. The final product is something of a hybrid between the German and Belgian styles of wheat beer, while at the same time maintaining a unique character all of its own.

For the life of me I haven’t been able to fully determine exactly what any separate component is within this mysterious Alpine herbal blend, it continues to elude and remains a satisfying riddle that keeps drawing me back for more. Not like I need any extra incentive though….

A Weizen glass or Pilsner glass will help accentuate the best parts of this Austrian wheat beer, although a pint glass will work by default if necessary. You’ll also want to consume this while it’s still fairly well chilled—the time it takes to grab it out of the fridge, open the bottle and pour it into a glass, and then allow the head to settle a bit should allow it to reach an optimal serving temperature.

Expect a fairly typical appearance for a Hefeweizen, cloudy straw in colour with a tall billowing white head that will last a while. It’s in the aroma that you are introduced to the beginning of the enigma. The basic elements are sweet and floral and grassy, however the more attention you pay to it, the more individual characteristics start to become more pronounce. Scents of lemon and mandarin, notes of tropical fruit such as papaya and banana, honey-sweet malt, ginger, coriander, mint, and a light perfumey lavender. And there’s still stuff in there I can’t figure out and name! Pretty complex. Much of this continues on in the taste with soft sweet malt, citrus, light banana, mint, and the same inexplicable mix from the aroma that continues to elude me. Hopefully you have better luck decoding the puzzle of this particular blend of alpine herbs. Carrying this liquid joy is a light-bodied mouthfeel that feels creamy smooth across the palate and provides a zip of carbonation on the finish. This helps maintain the status of Edelweiss Snowfresh as a great session beer, which makes it easier for the rest of us to go back for the purpose of more exploration.

When it comes time to take a break to eat and you don’t want to leave this Austrian Weiss behind, I think it would be a great idea to pair it up with some fresh lobster tail. But hey, I have expensive tastes…. For more common fare you could serve this unique wheat beer with the likes of chicken or fish, salad or pasta. Anything with savoury seasoning is fair game, however avoid spices that provide more intense heat. And while Cajun cooking might overwhelm the subtle nuances of this beer, Louisiana desserts on the other hand are a totally different story. My recommendation is some Bananas Foster. If you’re not familiar with this Southern treat, imagine rum flambéd caramelized bananas served over vanilla bean ice cream. I you choose to go with that route then put on some safety goggles, pour another glass of Edelweiss Snowfresh, and prepare yourself for a flavour explosion!

The next steps in the cooler:

Other Austrian Beer:
Gösser
Stiegl

Other Hefeweizens:
Paulaner Hefe-Weissbier
Ayinger Bräu Weisse
Hacker-Pschorr Hefe Weisse
Schneider Weisse
Erdinger Weissbier
König Ludwig Weiss

Witbiers:
Hoegaarden Original White Ale
Unibroue Blanche De Chambly
St. Bernardus Witbier
Wittekerke
Hitachino Nest White Ale
Lost Coast Great White
Mill Street Wit
DDC Rosée d’hibiscus

Map Courtesy of BlogSpot.com

We are going to take you on a trip today to one of my favourite countries that I have not yet visited. Richard visited there about 6 years ago, and we are both going to go there in about 2 years. We have always enjoyed the wines from Portugal and it is nice that we are seeing some new ones come here for us to explore.

When people think of wine and Portugal, they automatically think of “Port”. It is an incredibly delectable fortified wine that one would sip after enjoying a fabulous meal… or when celebrating something special… or just ‘cause. Well, you get the idea. Portugal also makes some of the most amazing wines that are not fortified – both still and sparkling.

Aliança Vinhos de Portugal came to be in 1927. “Present in the main wine regions of the country, Aliança believes in quality, and to accomplish the goal, the company purchased several Estates, in regions such as Alentejo, Douro, Dão, Bairradas and Beiras, exploring around 600 ha of winery.” Although in the ‘old world’ wine region of Portugal, Aliança has been modernizing their wine production (vineyards), vinification areas and wine cellars. One has to keep up with the times to keep making the best wine they can for you and I to enjoy.

Vista TN

Winery: Aliança Vinhos de Portugal
Vintage: 2006
Location:Portugal
Alcohol: 13.5%
Blend: Touriga Nacional
Tasting: Wednesday, August 18, 2010 - 4:00 – 7:00 p.m.

Touriga Nacional is a grape variety indigenous to Portugal. Many people call it the heart and soul of Portugal, as it not only makes incredible wine, but it is also the backbone of Port. Touriga Nacional is an early ripening grape that gives wonderful colour and tannins to wine. Its berries are smaller and their yield is around half of other grape varieties. The skin on this grape is very thick, which is good for two reasons: 1) It is able to withstand the searing heat in Portugal 2) It gives colour like you wouldn’t believe to wines, whether it is used as a single varietal or blended with other grape varieties. It is also the most expensive grape variety in Portugal.

This particular wine, Vista TN (the TN stands for Touriga Nacional) has a deep almost black purple colour. The aromas are rich ripe red fruit with a hint of French Oak. It aged in the Oak for one year. The oak is not overpowering though. The winemaker is Francisco Antunes, who is also the winemaker for the Vista TR. He has quite an impressive resumé. Including the prize for “Melhor Enólogo” (Best Winemaker) at Essência do Vinho 2006 Portugal. He has been lauded by Decanter Magazine, Wine Spectator Magazine, The International Wine Challenge in London, and Mundus Vini” Germany to name just a few. These events and magazines have recognized some of the wines the Francisco has made of the years.

Food Pairing:

Robust grilled and roasted meats; Aged Cheese.

CSPC: 738759
Price:

$14.50 (Minus Winesday 10% discount.)

*Price correct at time of printing. Price subject to change without notice

Vista TR

Winery: Aliança Vinhos de Portugal
Vintage: 2006
Location:Portugal
Alcohol: 13.5%
Blend: 85% Tinta Roriz, 15% Touriga Nacional
Tasting: Wednesday, August 18, 2010 - 4:00 – 7:00 p.m.

The “TR” in this name also refers to a grape variety. Tinta Roriz. This is a classic grape variety in Portugal, but it is not indigenous to the country. It is known as Tempranillo in Spain, which is its birthplace. It is also known by other names in different regions in Portugal. That is just to confuse the heck out of you and I. They want to keep us on our toes! (As an example: Aragonêz in the Alentejo region of Portugal)

The grapes are very thick skinned like the Touriga Nacional, which helps it cope with the hot hot summers. It also gives the wine the wonderful tannins. Also like the Touriga Nacional it is an early ripening grape.

The colour of this wine is a deep red with some violet overtones. The aromas of blackberry and raspberry jam are ever present. Just on the end you will note a wee touch of the oak. Again, just to compliment, not to be overbearing. The taste gives way to rich dark plums with some dark cherry flavours too.

Food Pairing:

Roasted or grilled beef; Roasted or grilled lamb; cheese, especially aged.

CSPC: 738758
Price:

$12.99 (Minus Winesday 10% discount.)

*Price correct at time of printing. Price subject to change without notice

Next week Richard and I are off to Chile for a cool white and a hot red.

Style: Hibiscus Flower Wit
ABV: 5%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Brasserie Dieu du Ciel
Country: Montreal, Quebec, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

I honestly can’t think of a classier way to quench your thirst during the hot summer months than this unique Witbier from the highly celebrated Montreal craft brewery Dieu du Ciel. Originally brewed in 2006 as a one-off for the famous annual Mondial de la Biere festival, it was such a crowd hit that this brewpub decided to brew it on a regular basis to keep up with popular demand. It also pulled in a gold medal for the brewers in 2007. Fortunate for us that they expanded to a microbrewery facility in order to bottle this refreshing wheat ale so good folks like us out West could eventually enjoy it as well.

Hibiscus flowers in general are known as the Queen of the Tropics, while this particular variety is widely known as a China Rose. They add a distinctive rosy pink hue to this beer, since the petals are added during the brewing process. Bitter orange peel and coriander are also added in small amounts so as not to overwhelm what the hibiscus has to offer, turning this wheat beer into a modified version of a Belgian style Wit. On a side note the ancient Egyptians once believed that tea made from red hibiscus flowers could induce potent sexual desire within women, and to prevent licentious behaviour within its population actually banned it from common use and consumption. Just saying….

This Witbier is best served fairly chilled, and although anything from a wide mug to a tall lager glass will suffice, do yourself a favour and present it in some stemware to show off the unique tint of its appearance.

The appearance in question is a bright cloudy pink grapefruit hue, and there’s a short splash of fizzy light pink head while it lasts. There is some sweet tropical fruit in the aroma, some tart wheat and citrus, faint dry spice. What continues in the flavour is a unique experience that is tart, sweet and dry at the same time. Sharp wheat and citrus, with a sweet yet herbal character from the hibiscus. This is all delivered by a light mouthfeel with an impressive effervescence which is well suited to the overall flavour profile.

To me this is the perfect swanky patio beer to while away a sweltering afternoon or evening with good company. When the time comes to eat this will pair perfectly with light salads tossed in fruity vinaigrettes, the acidity in both will compliment one other perfectly. Sushi is another meal that would pair ideally. Same with cooked crab or lobster, especially if dipped in melted butter, as the acidity of this tropical Wit will cut through the fatty nature of the butter nicely.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Aphrodisiaque
Blanche du Paradis
Corne du Diable
Dernière Volonté
Fumisterie
Paienne
Péché Mortel
Route des Épices

Other Wits:
Hoegaarden Original White Ale
Unibroue Blanche De Chambly
St. Bernardus Witbier
Wittekerke
Hitachino Nest White Ale
Lost Coast Great White
Mill Street Wit

Lateral Steps:
Coney Island Albino Python
Unibroue Don de Dieu
Duvel

For The Adventurous:
Dogfish Head Festina Pêche
Petrus Aged Pale
DeuS (Brut Des Flandres)

Map Courtesy of the Washington Wine Commission

I can’t tell you how many people are so surprised when I tell them about wineries in Washington. They are so shocked and most of them had no idea that wine was made in this lovely northwestern state. So when I tell them that in 2009 the 600th winery was registered, well you could just about pick them up off of the floor. Washington is an area to be reckoned with, for sure. The wine industry here is relatively young, but the Washington is now the second highest producer of wine in the United States next to California.

I have heard the expression ‘Washington = Merlot’. While that is true, Washington wineries also make wonderful wines from Syrah, Viognier, Riesling, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon to name just a few. Lucky us, we get to try a Syrah from Duck Pond Cellars and a Viognier from Desert Wind (by Duck Pond Cellars).

Winery: Duck Pond Cellars
Vintage: 2007
Location:Washington, U.S.A.
Alcohol: 13.5%
Blend: 96.3% Syrah, 3.7% other red varieties
Tasting: Wednesday, August 11, 2010 - 4:00 – 7:00 p.m.

It is amazing how far one can come in just 17 years. That is how old Duck Pond Cellars is. In that relatively short period of time, they have amassed 14 wines. Like most wineries, we are not able to get all of them here in Alberta, but we have two lovely ones… the Columbia Valley Syrah and the Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. The Rhone Valley (France) grape varieties seem to do quite well in Washington and the Syrah is a good example of that.

The vineyard where these grapes come from is called Desert Wind Vineyard (see map). It is located on East side of Washington in the area known as Wahluke Slope. This is a hot hot area. Considered to be the hottest area in the Columbia Valley. The vineyard is situated on 520 acres and the vines have an underground irrigation system to assist Mother Nature. Although this area can get up to 110F in the summer, it can dip down to 14F in the winter, giving the vines a chance to get a good winter sleep. The other area where some of the grapes are sourced is called the Sacagawea Vineyard, which is also located in the Columbia Valley.

This wine has been aged for 11 months in both French and American Oak. The French oak brings out the subtle flavours and the American oak adds a bit more ‘oomph’. That ‘oomph’ gives it an edged that helps to match it with so many different types of food. Spice and rich red berries like raspberries and a little bit of vanilla on the side, are the notes that stand out to me in this wine.

Now this time of year our minds go to the BBQ for a lot of food, because we spend so much time outdoors, and who wants to cook inside anyway!!! There are a few suggestions for the BBQ you may not have tried before. Stretch it out a little and head to your best butcher or fish shop and give these a try.

Food Pairing:

Grilled Tuna; Grilled Venison; Mushrooms and Wild Mushrooms; Grilled Duck.

CSPC: 719100
Price:

$15.99 (Minus Winesday 10% discount.)

*Price correct at time of printing. Price subject to change without notice

Winery: Desert Wind
Vintage: 2008
Location: Columbia Valley, Washington, U.S.A.
Alcohol: 13%
Blend: Viognier 100%
Tasting: Wednesday, August 11, 2010 - 4:00 – 7:00 p.m.

It was just last month that we sampled a Viognier and the response was so great that we decided to tempt your tastebuds again with this nice one from Washington.

You are probably reading this and thinking that you just read the name ‘Desert Wind’ when we wrote about the Syrah… and you would be right. In fact, the Desert Wind Winery is owned by the same family who owns Duck Pond Cellars. Like many wineries, Duck Pond has their second label. Desert Wind produces 15 different wines and we are lucky to get the Viognier here in Alberta. The first vintage was produced out of Desert Wind in 1997 and the Desert Wind Winery itself opened its doors in 2006.

Now you already know that Viognier makes an aromatic and full-bodied wine. This wine has only a touch of oak, so it still has that wonderful crisp acidity and nice fruit flavours of peach, pear and some tropical fruit. It even has a little bit of orange blossom too. Oh the food pairing for this wine is wonderful. In keeping with the BBW theme that we have going on… try roasting the nuts on the BBQ!

Food Pairing:

Roasted nuts (BBQ style); Lobster; Grilled or roasted pork; Grilled Chicken with a lemon butter sauce.

CSPC: 646083
Price:

$22.99 (Minus Winesday 10% discount.)

*Price correct at time of printing. Price subject to change without notice

Who wants to go to Portugal? Pick me… that we where we are heading next week.

Jason Foster

Check out more of Jason Foster’s beer news and views at onbeer.org

Last month I extolled the virtues of wheat as a companion ingredient to the staple barley. What I didn’t tell you then was that virtually any grain can be used for beer, at least in some proportion. Well, not quite – so don’t rip up your lawn and toss it in the mash tun. More biologically accurate is that you can brew with members of the Poaceae family of grasses, which includes barley, wheat, oats, rye, corn, rice, buckwheat, sorghum, millet, triticale and quinoa. (Yes, I know that you can brew with other non-grain additives that have mashable starches, such as potatoes, squashes and yams, but ignore that footnote for now.)

Barley was chosen historically for its hardiness, high starch and sugar content and pleasant flavour. But, just as with wheat, you don’t have to let historical convenience stop you. Most brewers haven’t. You will commonly find beer made with oats or rye and, of course, the big corporate brewers use corn and rice to lighten both the body and the hit on their wallets. More rarely you will find beer made with other grains, such as buckwheat, triticale or sorghum. In most cases these grains are a small proportion of the grist – 5-15%. Their purpose is to add a special quality to the beer but still allow barley to dominate the flavour.

In fact, there are some styles, both historic and modern, that explicitly call for the addition of one of these grains. The German style Roggenbier (roggen is German for rye) must have rye malt in it. And you can’t make an oatmeal stout without oats, can you? Small-scale African brewers still make a beer with the ancient grain “teff”, which I am told makes a sharp, quenching beer and is usually drank while still in mid-fermentation. It is important to understand that the addition of oats or rye or teff is not a marketing ploy, but an active attempt on the part of the brewer to alter the experience you will get from drinking their beer.

Let’s walk through a couple of the more common alternative grains found in beer. Obviously corn is the most ubiquitous, as it is used in most macro-lagers. There can be completely legitimate purposes for using corn (more accurately “maize”) – I use it occasionally myself in my homebrewing. Corn ferments out almost entirely, leaving very few traces of itself. Consequently it is perfect for lightening the body of a beer without compromising alcohol. In a cream ale or an English ordinary bitter, corn can make the beer appear more subtle and nuanced. I am pretty sure Fuller’s uses corn in its organic Honey Dew ale to great effect.

Rice is more rare, famously used in Budweiser. It, too, ferments out completely but offers a touch of sharp flavour in its remains. This gives Bud a taste ever so slightly different than other adjunct-laden beer. Some recent arrivals from Japanese microbreweries use rice very differently. By varying which rice they use – white, red, brown – they can create stronger rice impressions that allow rice to become a full partner in the beer. Hitachino Nest, in particular, has some interesting variations of rice beer.

Rye is most commonly compared to wheat in its impact on beer, it has become particularly popular in recent years. Maybe it is appropriate in Canada given that generally our whiskey is made from rye. I find rye has some wheat characteristics, but offers its own profile. It, too, adds an earthy sharpness to a beer. But I also believe it to be spicier and more assertive than wheat. I find it can be quite angular in its presentation, with some pepper and arugula tones. In general rye adds complexity and depth to a beer. I understand why you want to avoid fruit with rye, and maybe instead go for peppercorn, as Dieu Du Ciel does with Route des Epices.

The final common grain is my favourite – oats. Oats are head killers, due to their residual oils, but I love how they soften a beer and create a silkiness to the body not achievable any other way. They work well in stouts as they counter the astringent dark malts to create a multi-dimensional profile for the beer. In lighter beers they add a soft background to make the beer more quaffable. Oats are quite versatile and can be added, in small quantities, to almost any style without wrecking it. St. Ambroise Oatmeal Stout is probably the best example of how to use oats as a compliment to other flavours.

I have known brewers to use other grains like sorghum, millet and the like in their beer. I tried triticale a couple of times as a replacement for wheat. Each brings its own unique properties to the beer, which can only enhance the drinker’s experience of the beer.

Note I have, for the moment, left out the whole world of gluten-free beer, which makes full use of these alternative grains. That is the topic for next time.