Style: Märzen
ABV: 4.9%
Presentation: Single 500 ml can
Brewery: Stieglbrauerei zu Salzburg GmbH
Country: Salzburg, Austria

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

If you’re thirsty for a quenching beer and feel like rubbing elbows with famous historical composers, Stiegl Goldbräu may be the closest available option for you short of stumbling across your own “Wayback Machine”.  Apparently Mozart himself was a big fan of Stiegl, which is not too shabby of bragging rights for any beer.

As for longevity, the first mention of the Stiegl Brewery in official recorded documentation dates back to 1492-yes, the same year that “Columbus sailed the ocean blue”.  By 1650 it was the largest brewery in Salzburg, and after an expansion in 1863 it became and still remains the largest family run brewery in all of Austria, and one of the largest in all of Europe.  In fact the brewery’s restaurant is located right next to the tall, lengthy steps leading up to the Fortress “Festung Hohensalzburg”, one of Europe’s largest and most well preserved castles.  Very fitting then that Stiegl means “stairs” in English.  This is reinforced by the motif of steps that make

up the logo and runs alongside the name on the can.

While not exactly true to what a traditional Märzen is (a stronger, maltier lager, and the direct progenitor of the famous Oktoberfest style), this Stiegl Goldbräu is pretty bang on for what the style has evolved into within modern Austria.  These days it’s definitely the most common style of Austrian beer, quite similar to a German Helles or an English Lager.

The brewery itself recommends serving this Austrian lager between 7-9 degrees Celsius, so between the time you pull it from the fridge, grab a glass, and get it poured should be about adequate.  Allowing it to warm a little more will reveal a bit more malt, but somewhat chilled is still the way to go.  Anything from a tall, thin lager or pilsner glass, to a mug or pint glass will do the job just fine, vive la choice!!!

Stiegl Goldbräu presents itself dressed up with a bright clear golden hue, crowned by a tall fluffy white head.  Look forward to a clean aroma of crisp grainy malt, followed by some subtle grassy hops.  If you have the patience or self-discipline to allow it to warm a bit you’ll be rewarded with a comforting bready, biscuity malt.  The aroma doesn’t lend itself to false promises either, expect a clean crisp grainy flavour up front, rounding out nicely with biscuity malt, then finishing with a slight amount of quenching grassy hops.  A dry, crisp mouthfeel, with impressive carbonation delivers this whole package.  How many times have I used the word “crisp” in this paragraph?  Enough to get the point across I hope, this is one tasty lager that will slake your thirst!

If you feel like a bite to eat along with this Austrian brew nothing could be more authentic than some wiener schnitzel, or some other variation of veal cutlets.  Real doughy, salty pretzels will also be balanced with this bready quenching beer.  Salty or breaded appetizers and finger foods will be tamed and kept in their place.  This will also cut through the slight acidity of tomato-based dishes, while the bready malt will balance them out.  Purported food recommendations from the Stielg Brewery restaurant’s gourmet chef include roasted meat, goose, duck and chicken.  Regardless of what you are preparing in the kitchen Stiegl Goldbräu is satisfying to sip on while you cook too.

The next steps in the cooler:

Other Austrian Beer:
Gösser

Lateral Steps:
Czechvar
Löwenbräu
Hacker-Pschorr Münchner Gold
Ayinger Jahrhundert Bier

For The Adventurous:
Black Cat Lager - Paddock Wood
Warsteiner Dunkel
Lobkowicz Baron
Rogue Dead Guy Ale

Winery: Viña Maipo
Vintage: 2008
Location: Maipo Valley, Chile
Alcohol: 14%
Blend: 85% Syrah, 15% Carménère
Tasting: Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

You know, I can remember back to 1988/89 when people were just starting to hear about wines coming from Chile.  They were amazed that wine grapes could be grown there.  What they didn’t realize is that for most of the country the climate is actually considered to be a Mediterranean climate.  It features the warm, dry summers and cold, rainy winters that vines love. With the breezes from the sea and the effect of the Andes Mountains, Chile has bright sunny days and cool nights.  The dip in temperature at night helps the grapes to develop fresh fruit flavors, crisp acidity in the white wines.   This helps the red wines as well.  They develop ripe tannins, deep color, and high levels of antioxidants and flavonols.

Viña Maipo, which was founded in 1948, gets its name from the valley in which it sits - the Maipo Valley.  The Maipo Valley is considered to be the oldest and most important wine growing valley in the country of Chile.   Its history dates back centuries prior to the arrival of the Spanish in the 16^th century.  The Jesuits arrived and settled in the valley until they were expelled by the Spanish crown.  The Town of Maipo was founded during this time to defend the area against native attacks.

The Jesuits returned in the 19^th century, around the same time that the first great wineries appeared.  The merger of different religions and beliefs took place at this time and gave rise to the unique devotion and religiousness that is still felt in this region today.

Viña Maipo is located just 38 kilometers south of Santiago.  Just a minute down the road from the vineyard is the lovely town of Maipo.

In 1968, Viña Maipo became part of Viña Concha y Toro.  Over the next 42 years the winery has grown to become the 4th largest Chilean wine exporter.  Quite an accomplishment since only a decade ago they exported to small number of countries.  Now their wines are found in over 60 countries and they send over 2 million bottles of wine to those countries each year.

The Viña Maipo vineyards are located in Chile’s main valleys:  Casablanca, Maipo, Rapel, Curico and Maule.  The last four of these is known as the Central Valley.  This valley extends more than 310 miles from north to south and lies between the Maipo and Maule Rivers.  The clash of the cold Pacific breezes and the hot inland air masses give this area a pleasant Mediterranean climate with warm days, cold nights and well defined seasons.  Casablanca is known for its fresh whites; Rapel for its fruity reds; Curico for its very intense Sauvignon Blanc; Maule for its powerful and concentrated reds; Maipo for its elegant and classic styles.

This wine is the first in a series of Syrah from Viña Maipo.  The second is called Reserva and the third is Limited Edition.  They each are different and lovely in their own way.  April 28^th we have chosen the Syrah for our Winesday wine.  April 30^th and May 1 we will be doing a two day sampling with the Reserva Syrah and the Grand Devotion Sauvignon Blanc.  You will have to try each and find your favourite ones.

The grapes for this wine were both hand-picked and mechanically harvested in April 2008.  30% of it was aged in American oak barrels for three months and 70% of it was aged in stainless steel for 5 months.  The colour is an intense ruby red with violet hues.  It has some nice fruit with raspberry and blackberry leading the way.  There is a little black pepper spice and toasted notes to boot.  It has a softer body, but is nicely balanced with a medium finish.

Food Pairing:

  Grilled meats (beef, venison, lamb); a pesto based pizza; gouda cheese; braised beef.

CSPC:     735791
Price:

      $10.50 (Minus Winesday 10% discount.)

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Come by and try this Syrah and then come back on Friday or Saturday to try the Viña Maipo Syrah Reserva and the Viña Maipo Gran Devocion Sauvignon Blanc.

Next week Richard and I are going to stay in Chile and have a bit of a road trip.  Come join us.  I’ll bring a few treats that we can nibble on while we travel.

Style: American Barleywine
ABV: 11%
Presentation: Single 341 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Alley Kat Brewing
Country: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

“My legs may be tottery, I must go slow/And be careful of Old Deuteronomy!”  Well then, it will most certainly help if you are in a seated position when sampling Alley Kat’s eponymous tribute to one of the main character’s of T.S. Eliot’s Old Possum’s Book of Practical Cats.  Olde Deuteronomy is a barleywine that this brewery has been producing as a seasonal every year or two since 1995, and landed Alley Kat a gold medal in 1997 at the World Beer Championships.

As far as the pedigree regarding this unique ale of British origin is concerned, in a way it comes down to the case of “the butler did it!”  Following the centuries after the Norman invasion of England the nobility of the land acquired a taste for wine, which their new ruling class would import from back home in France.  Of course all of those irritating subsequent wars between England and France would continually cut off steady supplies of their grape goodness.  However by the early 1700’s the scientific knowledge and technology of British brewers was at a level to match the quality of what their vintner rivals could produce, and provide a homegrown, complexly flavoured, high alcohol substitute.

Now while the actual name “barley wine” was only coined sometime in the early 19^th century, this style also went by several other names since its inception, such as malt wine, malt liquor, October beer or Dorchester beer.  Most certainly a product for and of the aristocracy, you wouldn’t find a barley wine in a public house for centuries to follow.  Since most country homes of the gentry had their own personal brew houses on site, it came down to the responsibility of the household butler to craft these barley wines, not just for the enjoyment of their masters, but also to represent the entire estate and impress dinner guests and visiting nobility.  Imagine several generations of butlers competing and trying to out-do one another to bestow bragging rights and regional recognition for the manor by the beer that they produced.  No pressure Jeeves, no pressure….

A  note of interest here, the first beer to actually be commercially marketed as a barleywine was Bass No.1 in 1903, from Burton on Trent.  Chances are there were no butlers involved with it.

Due to its intricacies and above normal alcohol content a barleywine could take months, if not years in order to age and mature properly, adding yet another element to its exclusive status.  It could then be aged for years more, providing the opportunity to create annual vintages, and allow for vertical tastings in years to come.  Usually considered the richest and strongest in character of the traditional ales, the newer American craft version of barleywine tends to be even higher in alcohol, and of course with a liberal hop presence as well.  Olde Deuteronomy falls into the latter category.

Barley wine is a style whose nomenclature directly hints towards proper glassware.  Stemware is highly recommended, be it a goblet or chalice, while a large brandy snifter will also offer the best of all worlds.  While this style was traditionally served at room or cellar temperature, it wouldn’t hurt to allow the bottle to warm for up to half an hour after pulling it from the fridge.

Since it will be the most accessible version available at the moment I’m going to go through a specific description of the 2009 vintage of Olde Deuteronomy.  After the pour expect a short creamy off-white head capping a bright translucent ruby-brown body in appearance.  Rising from the glass can be detected notes of caramel and toffee malt, raisin sweetness, some alcohol warmth, with the slightest hint of grassy hops.  The mouthfeel is medium-bodied across the tongue and palate, starting off a bit sticky yet finishing with a sherry-like dryness.  While this style is bold yet full of nuance, most people’s palates will be able to detect some caramel malt up front in the flavour, date-like sweetness in the middle, with an earthy dry finish.  Since this vintage has only been released the past little while, as it ages the flavour and character will grow and change at an intermittent rate.

Such a bold ale tends to usually be consumed on its own, and nursed for a good chunk of time at that.  Yet the British aristocracy had been pairing it with some robust Stilton for centuries, given you feel the urge to nibble a bit while you sip.  On that note consider other aged, sharp, ripe cheeses to match Olde Deuteronomy up with, such as Blue Cheese or Gorgonzola.  A rich carrot cake or Christmas cake should hold up well enough too.  In fact it wouldn’t hurt to start out with a full stomach to begin with if cheese or cake isn’t your thing.  Moderation is also suggested, lest you end up quoting the venerable T.S. Eliot poem yourself:  “My sight’s unreliable, but I can guess/That the cause of the trouble is Old Deuteronomy!”

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Aprikat
Full Moon Pale Ale
Alley Kat Amber
Charlie Flint’s Original Lager
Pumpkin Pi Spiced Ale

In-Style:
Rogue Old Crustacean
Brooklyn Monster Ale
Mill St. Barleywine
Thomas Hardy’s Ale

Winery: Silvertop
Vintage: 2008
Location: Mendoza, Argentina
Alcohol: 13.5%
Blend: 100% Malbec
Tasting: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

Map courtesy of mendosaholidays.com

We will be heading to Chile next week.  Our flight landed in Mendoza on the way and we noticed some vineyards nearby the airport, so we thought we would stop and take a look.

Okay… raise your hands… who hasn’t heard of Argentinean Malbec?  It certainly has come on our wine scene with great vigor over the past couple of years.  Now there are a lot of wineries from Argentina, but the vast majority of wines come from the Mendoza region.  I believe the number is about 75 - 80%, actually.

The history of the country is fascinating.  Of course its connection with Spain goes back many hundreds of years.  The Monks started developing the vineyards in Argentina back in the 1500’s.  This year, Argentina will be celebrating their 200^th Anniversary of Independence from Spain.  Now the Spanish culture still plays a large part in this country.  You will notice, for instance, that a lot of winery names being with ‘Bodegas’, which is ‘winery’ or ‘house of’.  Today some of the red wines being produced in Argentina include:  Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, Syrah, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Bonarda and Sangiovese.  White wines include:  Torrontes, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon, Semillon, Riesling, Viognier and Gewürztraminer.

Let’s get on to this wine.  What the heck is Malbec anyway?  Well, the Malbec grape came from France originally, but there is not a lot left to be found in the country.  There are some areas where it can still be found.  The most notable area is located in the south west of France.  The region is called Cahors.   Recently there have been some wines from this region that have come back into the spotlight.  Why?  Well, because Malbec has been getting a lot of press from Argentina and Malbec is big in Cahors.  It follows that Cahors will be garnering a bit of the limelight, as well.  And as Martha says… that is a good thing.

Now at $10.99, you know that this is not going to be a big powerhouse Malbec, but what you will notice are the great red berry flavours, red plum, cherry and even a little bit of tobacco that you get on this wine.  In your mouth there are those red fruits like raspberry and cherry with that touch of the red plum again.  It has a nice bit of fruit, but not in a sweet way, just some nice fruit.  When I tried this wine for the first time about 1½ to 2 years ago, I was surprised that there was so much flavour for the price.  It was a nice surprise indeed.  This makes a great ‘sit back, put your feet up and relax kind of wine’.  Argentinean wines are such a good value.  They are so worth trying.

Food Pairing:

Beef… Beef… and more beef!  Did I say ‘beef’?  Barbequed lamb; pizza with chorizo sausages; chili.

CSPC:     734702
Price:

$10.99 (Minus Winesday 10% discount.)

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Winery: Silvertop
Vintage: 2009
Location: Mendoza, Argentina
Alcohol: 13%
Blend: 100% Torrontes
Tasting: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

Torrontes grapes make the quintessential white wine from Argentina.  Although it makes up about 10% of white grapes planted in Argentina, it accounts for about 20% of the sales.  Interesting!  Now until recently, it was thought this grape variety was indigenous to Argentina, but recent DNA testing has found that, in fact, the grape has roots in the Eastern Mediterrean region.  Which, when you think about it makes sense.  Most of the grape vines in the New World regions were most likely brought over by explorers from the ‘Old World’ during their travels.  Simplistically, they wanted to bring a little bit of home with them so that they could make their own wine for celebrations and the like.

This wine has such flavourful aromas.  You get anything from orange/citrus and some flowers to peaches/peach pit.  Now although you get all these notes, the wine is dry.  It kind of fools you when you get all those wonderful aromas.  This is a wine to enjoy when it is young.

Food Pairing:

Asian food, especially Thai and Vietnamese; guacamole; Mexican food; clam chowder with a wee touch of spice.

CSPC:     734704
Price:

$11.99 (Minus Winesday 10% discount.)

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

I have some very exciting news for you!!!  We will be doing an ‘Earth Day’ weekend tasting this weekend.  Friday, April 23^rd from 3:00 - 7:00 p.m. and Saturday, April 24^th from 1:00 - 5:00 p.m.  We will be tasting Organic and Biodynamic Wines.  Come by and join us.

Next week Richard and I are going to hop on that flight and head over the Andes Mountains to Chile.  See you there!

Style: Experimental/Historical Re-creation
ABV: 9%
Presentation: Single 341 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Dogfish Head Craft Brewery
Country: Milton, Delaware, U.S.A.

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

“Handcrafted ancient ale, with barley, honey, white Muscat grapes & saffron,” states the bottle, and if that doesn’t sound like a mouthful already wait until you hear the story behind this curious beer.

Gather round all you whip-cracking tomb raiding aficionados in the crowd, as I’ve got a tale of archeology to share with you.  The year was 1957, at the site of ancient Gordium in Turkey (where now exists the modern village of Yassihöyük), which was the capital of the kingdom of Phrygia.  Within the heart of a famous historical landmark called the Great Tumulus archeologists affiliated with the University of Pennsylvania found what is now considered the tomb of King Midas.  Yes, that King Midas, the one who turned everything he touched to gold.

Included within this intact and well-preserved find were the remains of the funerary feast, including the most impressive collection of Iron Age drinking vessels found dating back to the 8^th century BCE.

Fast forward to 1997 at the U of P when Molecular Archeologist Patrick McGovern got his hands on some of the food samples from this Turkish find, and with the wonder of modern technology was able to break down and isolate nearly each ingredient component of the residue that was found within the drinking vessels.  With the assistance of some talented homebrewers he was able to recreate a viable recipe, however it was Sam Caligione the owner/brewer of the Dogfish Head Craft brewery who eventually stepped up to the plate to produce it commercially in 1999, and has offered it as a regular part of their line-up ever since.

As a result Midas Touch gives us a potable glimpse into what the royals were drinking 2700 years ago in that corner of the Mediterranean.  Given three key ingredients of barley, honey and grapes, this is practically a hybrid beverage combining beer, mead and wine;  which in turn provides an exciting twist for beer fans, and an inviting cross-over opportunity for those who tend to be more partial to wine coolers and the like, or a sweet tooth in general.  Either way it’s one of the oldest known fermented beverage recipes in the world, and that’s some pretty impressive clout.

The Dogfish Head brewery recommends using a white wine glass to serve their Midas Touch, which sounds about right.  I’ll admit that the very first time I ever sampled it I used a pilsner glass, and it equally accentuated what was to offer.  Because the flavour profile is unquestionably on the sweeter side chilled practically out of the fridge would be the way to go.

Unlike King Midas and his crew we have the luxury of easily accessible clear commercial glassware, so relish in the ability to casually observe and appreciate everything from the short spongy white head, healthy carbonation, and brilliant deep golden translucent colour.  The sweet smell of grains, honey and grapes is apparent immediately, and when held closer to the nose the aroma is quite intense, with the grapes then the saffron as most prominent.  Some slight alcohol warmth is also apparent.  When it comes time to dive in and taste it there’s a fairly neutral, slightly bready malt at first.  In fact the flavour is not quite as sweet as the aroma promises, there’s some sweetness of honey and grape in the middle, followed by a dry finish accompanied with slight spicy heat from the saffron and warmth from the alcohol.  Not much lingering aftertaste.  Considering the juxtaposition of such diverse ingredients Midas Touch, although sweeter than most contemporary beers, is fairly balanced.  Tying everything together is a medium-bodied, almost effervescent mouthfeel, mostly dry with a bit of carbonation zip on the finish.

Brie comes first to mind for a complimentary pairing if you have the urge to nibble on something along with your glass of Midas Touch.  Because of the sweet and dry nature of the beverage any dish with a mild earthy nature would balance things out nicely, especially with a healthy measure of mushrooms and/or nuts as main ingredients.  Both those ingredients along with some brie blended into a risotto would be a winner!  For lighter fare a spring greens salad accompanied by some nuts and dried fruit then tossed with a raspberry vinaigrette would also match well. The brewery’s website suggests Pan-Asian dishes, baked fish, curries and chicken to serve alongside this historically re-created libation.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Palo Santo Marron
60 Minute IPA
90 Minute IPA

Herbed/Spiced Beers:
Rogue Juniper Ale
Rogue Chipotle Ale
Rosée d’Hibiscus - Dieu Du Ciel
Australian Mountain Pepper Berry Lager - Amber’s
Sap Vampire Maple Lager - Amber’s
Commemorative Ale - Kiuchi
Aaiieeeeeeeeee Caramba! - Sherbrooke
Van Helsings’ All Natural Mouthwash - Sherbrooke
Pi Jiu - Alley Kat/Sherbrooke
Pumpkin Pi Spiced Ale - Alley Kat

Lateral Steps:
Hoegaarden
St. Bernardus Witbier
Hitachino Nest White Ale

Winery: Bodegas Ateca
Vintage: 2008
Location: Calatayud, Spain
Alcohol: 14%
Blend: Old Vines Garnacha (Grenache)
Tasting: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

Map courtesy of vinisimo.com

When people think of exports from Spain, they think of Hollywood actors like Javier Bardem and Penélope Cruz to name just a couple.  Well, let me tell you Spain has some incredible wine.   Let’s step back a little in time…

As with the history in many Mediterranean countries, the cultivation of wine grapes in Spain began with the Greeks and Phoenicians.  After the conquest of Spain by the Moors in 711 A.D. the wine industry took a huge hit.  The Moors forbid the drinking of alcohol, so land that was previously under vine was used for other crops.  In some areas, the Christians were allowed to keep some land under vine for their own use.  When the reconquest of Spain took place the wine industry came alive again due in part to the monasteries, as they needed sacramental wine for Communion.  In the 19^th Century Phylloxera hit a lot of Europe before it hit Spain.  When it devastated France, a number of French winemakers moved to Spain to not only work their art, but they also gave the Spanish priceless information on grape growing, and they also imparted their wisdom of more modern winemaking techniques, the effects of which are still felt in the country today.  When Phylloxera did come to Spain, the Spanish were better equipped to handle it.  They had learned that grafting the vines on root stock that was resistant to Phylloxera was going to be their saving grace.  The damage was not felt as hard as it was in a lot of Europe.  Fast forward to the 20^th Century…  many people around the world associate Spain with Sherry.  Yes, Sherry is made in Spain, but there is a wide range of wonderful wines from this country.  I hope this is the first of a number of articles we get to write on Spanish wine.

The wine we are sampling today, Atteca Old Vines 2008,  is from Northeastern Spain in an area called Calatayud.  This probably is not one of the best known regions of Spain.  Ribera del Duero, Rioja and Priorat are probably much better known on this side of the water.  Calatayud is an area of 5,600 hectacres of land in the Province of Zaragoza in Northeastern Spain.  The wine region is made up of 15 vineyards (Bodegas) which produce about 14 million liters of wine each year.

There are many different grape varieties grown in the Calatayud region including for the reds:  Garnacha Tinta, Tempranillo, Mazuela, Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot.   For the whites:  Macabeo, Malvasia, Moscatel de Alejandria, Garnacha Blanca and Chardonnay.   Unlike Germany and some other countries, Spain doesn’t usually have a problem with grapes not fully ripening due to cool temperatures.  The climate in Calatayud is mainly continental with warm to hot summers and cool to cold winters.  Most of the rain that falls comes between April and July.  The later part of the summer is very dry with only a scattered thunderstorm to leave a little rain for the vineyards.

This particular wine is made from 100% Old Vines Garnacha (otherwise known at Grenache).  The vines used to make this wine are between 80 to 120 years old.  Now when the vines get that old, they don’t produce a lot of fruit, but the fruit that you do get is amazing.  It is full of flavour and something just out of this world.   The vines were selected from hillside vineyards at 3000 feet above sea level.  These vineyards were planted in the last few decades of the 19^th Century and the first decade of the 20^th Century.

Richard and I sat down on Friday night to enjoy this wine with our dinner.  I had decanted it about 90 minutes prior.  Richard was enjoying a barbequed steak with various veggies and the like.  Being the rebel that I am, I had some chicken with a balsamic reduction and of course like a good girl, I had lots of veggies. The wine is a very deep ruby colour.  The aromas were awash with blackberries, black cherries and even some raspberries and a little vanilla.  In the mouth you could taste those berries along with some good acidity with a medium body feel.  On the finish, that is when you notice a wee bit of pepper spiciness.  We found it was about a medium finish.  The tannins are very noticeable, but not overbearing by any means.

Food Pairing:

Grilled/roasted beef and lamb; chorizo sausages (grilled or fried); veal; pork; Moroccan stew.  Or try grilled chicken with a balsamic reduction.

CSPC:     1025227
Price:

$23.99 (Minus Winesday 10% discount.)

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice

Atteca photos courtesy of corksandcaftans

Richard and I are heading back across the pond to Chile next week.  As usual, I am running behind, so I better get my suitcase packed.  See you Wednesday!

Jason Foster

Check out more of Jason Foster’s beer news and views at onbeer.org

When something gets better as it grows older, they say it “ages like a fine wine”. Note the saying is not “ages like a good beer”. There is a reason for that. Today I want to talk about why, in general, beer is best consumed fresh.

Much like our bodies, aging is a battle between the inevitable effects of the elements and our determination to resist them. A person who exercises regularly and takes care of their health is going to fare better in holding off the ravages of time than someone who does nothing but eat potato chips and watch television. The same goes for alcoholic beverages.

In one corner of the ring are the natural elements.  Four things conspire to break down the yumminess of beer. First is oxygen. That essential for life is also a beer thief. When oxygen comes in contact with almost any substance, it initiates a chemical reaction called “oxidation” - the oxygen steals an electron from the other molecules, causing instability. If you leave a half-eaten apple on the counter, its surface quickly turns brown. That is oxidation.

Oxygen alters beer’s flavour and aroma profile, and at extreme levels alters colour as well. Oxidation flattens out the aroma and mouthfeel, and will also generate off-flavours of wet paper, cardboard, sherry or mustiness.

The second conspirator is bacteria and wild yeast. Micro-organisms are, of course, everywhere. Beer even relies on a particular strain of microscopic life - brewing yeast. However, there are hundreds of competitors for the food and nutrients that beer offers. Modern brewing methods of sanitation and aggressive pitching of brewing yeast ensure that foreign micro-organisms stand no chance during fermentation. However no system is perfect and over time bacteria might catch a toehold. In normal circumstances this process takes months, however poor handling or inadequate sanitation at source can speed it up. Micro-organisms can create sour, medicinal, plastic, musty or barnyard flavours and aromas.

I hasten to add here that nothing harmful to human health can grow in beer. The bacteria and wild yeasts found in beer may make it taste bad, but they won’t hurt you. Only a narrow sub-range of micro-organisms can survive in the acidic, alcoholic environment of beer. So don’t worry about salmonella or e-coli from beer - can’t happen.

Third is sunlight, as I discussed in my last column. Beer in clear or green glass will quickly go skunky if exposed to sunlight or fluorescent light, creating an awful taste and smell.

Fourth we find that warm temperatures act as an evil catalyst to the other combatants. At warmer temperatures the reactions that cause beer spoilage will accelerate, causing the beer to go off more quickly.

In the other corner are the qualities of the beverage which hold off the four enemies. In normal circumstances, wine possesses more of these qualities than beer does - which is why it handles aging better.

The first is stability. Wine, coming from a single fruit, is quite stable. Beer on the other hand is a blend of a variety of ingredients, which is a more delicate balance. Many qualities of beer, such as hop aroma and crisp malt flavours, are fairly volatile and short-lived, meaning an older beer is going to lose these hard-to-hold qualities.

Second is alcohol. Alcohol is a natural preservative and anti-bacterial. Most organisms have a hard time living in alcohol (which is why we use it to disinfect cuts), which means the higher the alcohol content, the longer the shelf life. Micro-organism growth is retarded in high alcohol environments, and oxidation effects are more pleasant in alcoholic conditions (more sherry and less cardboard).

In short wine at 11-14% is more able to fight off the effects of aging, and even turn it to its advantage. Beer, at 5% normally, is more inadequately armed, and therefore falls apart more quickly. Beer also tends to have a higher level of residual sugars and proteins, which is a more friendly environment for micro-organisms.

One thing going for beer is hops, which is one of the strongest anti-oxidants known. Hops helps preserve beer and forestall staling effects, which means the hoppier the beer, the longer we can expect it to last.

So, how long can a beer last? Well in proper conditions (kept cool, out of sunlight, and properly packaged) it can survive 4-6 months. Hoppy beers can last longer. However, it remains true that beer is best fresh, within the first few weeks after bottling. That is why Pilsner-Urquell (or any other classic import) will taste best at the brewery.

And not all beer is created equal. A light lager is going to show signs of aging quicker than a robust stout. Beer with fresh yeast in it will last longer than filtered beer. And there are beers that intended for long-term cellaring. These beers, such as barley wines and Belgian strong ales, are higher in alcohol and complex in profile so that they benefit from aging. I will talk about cellaring beers in a future column.

In most cases, beer needs to be consumed sooner rather than later, which is maybe a good thing, as it gives you an excuse to pick up a fresh six-pack. Next column I will tell you how to determine the age of the beer you are buying.

Style: Belgian Golden Strong Ale
ABV: 8.7%
Presentation: Single 330 ml white enamel bottle, blue foil around the cap
Brewery: Brouwerij Huyghe
Country: Melle, Belgium

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

What’s more intense than a lone beer that is not only named after a morbid medical condition that it can induce through excessive consumption, but also has an official public fellowship?  Throw in some pink elephants to seal the deal and what you have is a force to be reckoned with.  A delicious force to reckon with, no doubt, but a bit of caution would be wisely in order.

Released upon the world on December 26^th, 1989 Delirium Tremens needed less than a decade to be nominated for “best beer in the world” in 1997, and lived up to that recognition the following year in Chicago by earning a gold medal at the World Beer Championships.  Perhaps some of this was drawn about with the assistance of the “Confrerie van de Roze Olifant” that was formed in 1992, in English known as The Brotherhood of the Pink Elephant.  Far from having sinister intentions, this group has taken up the charge of promoting Delirium Tremens and other local beers of Melle, Belgium, along with more altruistic pursuits within the community.  It is said that to become an honourary member of this order you have to swig back your first glass of Delirium Tremens in one shot.

Now as you know by now I’m not a doctor, but like to play one on television, and as a result would have to advise you to do such a thing at your own discretion.  This Belgian ale is a formidable 8.7% in alcohol content after all.

Speaking of overindulgence, delirium tremens is the Latin term for “trembling madness”.  This affliction of the mind and body is what may take hold of an individual who’s been overindulging with alcohol for a period and then suddenly stops, a sort of severe shock from withdrawal.  It may constitute uncontrollable shakes and seizures, and may even lead to fatality.  Based on that sort of prognosis consider yourself lucky if you merely get away with hallucinations of pink dancing elephants.

With all that out of the way we can get back to the beer.  Even without all the aforementioned brouhaha this fine golden ale speaks for itself and stands on its own.  Triple fermented with the aid of three separate yeast strains, it unravels itself as complex yet refined.  Ideally it is served in a tulip or burgundy glass, although a trusty large brandy snifter is just as good.  Trust me, it just won’t be the same in a pint glass or something similar.  Plus in order to release some of the complexity allow Delirium Tremens to warm up at least 15 minutes before opening and pouring.

Once in the glass you’ll discover a dense white meringue-like head resting upon a hazed yet bright golden body in appearance.  The nose will pick up grainy and light bready malt, with floral notes and a mild orange citrus.  A few sips will reveal a mellow crispness of malt up front, spicy pepper notes which immediately follow, with a graceful zip of citrus hops on the finish, which dries out very quickly within the aftertaste.  This is all accompanied by a dry, lightly carbonated mouthfeel.

If you are planning on becoming an honourary member of The Brotherhood of the Pink Elephant it would be a good idea to have a bite to eat with it at some point along the line.  It’ll accentuate a serving of steamed mussels if you’re looking for some light fare.  Either seared or grilled salmon and Ahi tuna are some other good seafood selections.  Baked poultry or braised beef are more heartier options.  For a more authentic pairing some Belgian cuisine highlighted by some sort of game meat and thickly sliced frites will offer a well-rounded experience.  However when you find yourself surrounded by dancing pink elephants, it’s a pretty good indication to call it a night already, especially to avoid the tremens.

The next step in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Floris Kriek
Floris Ninkeberry
Fruli

In-Style:
Duvel
Piraat
Pranqster - North Coast
Affligem Blond

Lateral Steps:
Konig Ludwig Weiss
Augustijn
Gouden Carolus Tripel

For The Adventurous:
Lindemans Gueuze Cuvée René
Le Merle - North Coast
Petrus Oud Bruin

Winery: Stoneleigh
Vintage: 2008
Location: Marlborough, New Zealand
Alcohol: 13%
Blend: Sauvignon Blanc
Tasting: Wednesday, April 7, 2010 - 4:00 - 7:00 p.m.

New Zealand is located in the picturesque South Pacific.  New Zealand wine has been on the Canadian radar for a number of years.   Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough has been a perennial favourite.  However, we are seeing much more coming from these beautiful islands:  Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio, Viognier. Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah.  That is quite a selection to quench our thirst!

“In Rapaura, Marlborough there lies a vineyard studded with precious stones. Once the bed of an ancient river, today they form the bed of our vineyard.”  That is the beginning of the Stoneleigh Winery history.  As we were reading the story of Stoneleigh, the first thing we thought was that it sounded almost magical.  Lo and behold at the bottom of the page didn’t it say “Stoneleigh - Made with the Magic of Sunstones.”  The Rapaura region of New Zealand is slightly warmer than other regions of Marloborough, so the fruit will ripen a little earlier.

We usually think of harvest time as the fall - September to October.  Well these grapes were harvested between March 23 and April 15, which is their fall down under.  Jamie Marfell, Senior Winemaker for Stoneleigh Winery said “The 2008 vintage was a fantastic grape growing year for the wines of Stoneleigh. Periodic rainfall events throughout summer gave strong vine health, boosting what is needed on our stony, gravelly vineyards. Starting harvest in late March, the fruit was in premium condition with intense flavours and balanced acidity.  Making picking decisions based on flavour, I was able to target passionfruit and grapefruit flavours, minimizing the greener notes.  The resultant wine is a true expression of the Rapaura region with strong aromatics, an intense palate and clean, fresh acidity.” Now if that doesn’t make your mouth water, I don’t know what would!

Stoneleigh began winemaking at the Marlborough Estate in the 1980’s so its history is relatively short.  However, a number of their wines have won awards.  The Stoneleigh Marlborough Chardonnay 1996 was named White Wine of the Year at the 1998 International Wine Challenge in London.  This was followed by two successive vintages of the Sauvignon Blanc receiving Best Buy recommendations from Wine Spectator Magazine.  Now awards are great, but what is most important is what you think of the wine.

In North America we are used to mega filtering of everything.  Well, if you over filter the wine, you will lose some of its character and flavour… and that would not be a good thing.  At Stoneleigh the winemaker takes a minimalist approach when making the wine and only subtly intervenes to add some complexity and to enhance the fruit’s unique characteristics.  The wines are fined very lightly, so that they maintain all the qualities of the fruit.

It has been a few years since we last tasted this wine, so we thought it was well time to do it again.

When you taste this wine you will notice the citrus, ripe grapefruit and passionfruit right off the bat.  There are also some mineral notes as well.  The acidity is nicely balanced with the nice fruit on the palate.

Food Pairing:

  Asparagus, chicken (fried, roasted, or sautéed), goat cheese, white fish (poached or sautéed), oysters, pasta with a cream sauce, light salad, turkey.

CSPC:     293043
Price:

      $17.99 (Minus Winesday 10% discount.)

*Price correct at time of printing.  Price subject to change without notice.

Come join myself and Richard in Spain next week.  Our frequent flyer miles are adding up!!

Style: Flavoured Porter
ABV: 6.5%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Alley Kat Brewing Co. exclusive for Sherbrooke Liquor
Country: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

DI!  ECCE HORA!  UXOR MEA ME NECABIT! Found on the label of this porter, which translates from Latin as “God, look at the time!  My wife will kill me!”  Lucky for you guys out there that this beer comes with its own built-in failsafe measure.  What’s that, you ask?  Well my friend, this happens to be a chocolate cherry Porter, blended and produced so well by the talented folks at the Alley Kat Brewery that this is practically black forest cake in a bottle.  The perfect cure for getting anyone out of the hot seat with their significant other.  Or if required, to help assist in wooing a potential significant other, this is certainly a mood-enhancing libation that’s well worthy of sharing.  For those worthy of sharing with that is…it’s so good you’re going to want to keep it all for yourself otherwise.

For those of you still wondering, “Ostiarius” stand for “Porter” in Latin as well, keeping with the loose theme.  First produced exclusively for Sherbrooke Liquor by Alley Kat in 2007, a third batch is in the works now for early 2010.  Although there isn’t a significant change in the recipes between batches, or “vintages”, Chocolate Cherry Ostiarius is constantly being fine-tuned from year to year, so if you have the intestinal fortitude and self-control to put a bottle or two away for a few years a lateral tasting can be performed to see how each batch has aged and improved from year to year.

Your favourite mug or pint glass will do the trick to serve this savoury Ostiarius, however if you’re sharing and feeling romantic a pair of red wine glasses will help assist setting the mood.  The balanced additions of chocolate and cherry are robust enough that they’ll still be apparent if the bottle is consumed straight out of the fridge and still quite chilled, although be aware that this porter can be consumed even at room temperature without detracting from the experience, so consider yourself informed of your options.  As you know by now the warmer a beer like this gets the more intense and open the inherent flavours become to your nose and your tongue.

Once transferred to your chosen drinking vessel you’ll see a dark black opaque beer, yet when held to light it will illuminate a bright reddish cola-like hue.  The head will be fairly short, beige in colour, that will settle somewhat quickly.  Forget trying to find any distinct aspects of a porter in the aroma, all you’ll get is indulgent rich potent chocolate and cocoa, and the unmistakable smell of cherry extract, although none of it seems artificial in nature.  The flavour is a big hit of milky chocolate, with sweet cherry appearing close to the finish. The finish is actually a dry sweet hit of cocoa, which blends with the cherry again on the aftertaste.  Yet no fork or spoon are required for this porter, the mouthfeel is only a manageable medium body, and on the lighter end of that to boot.  Deceptively quaffable.  Like I said before, almost literally black forest cake in a bottle.

In fact forget pairing Chocolate Cherry Ostiarius with anything, serve it as dessert on its own instead.  Whether in a mug or wine glass, give it a liberal topping of whipped cream, add powdered chocolate or sprinkles, and for flourish top it with a maraschino cherry, except all bets are off how long it lasts there before it settles to the bottom of the glass.   If that sounds like too much effort you can pour it over a scoop or two of ice cream, be it vanilla, chocolate, or some sort of chocolate cherry fudge concoction.  Even the strawberry in Neapolitan will accentuate the cherry.  Options, options!  If you still feel the urge to serve this alongside something, then stick with dessert, it’ll add some healthy companionship to chocolate or berry based sweets, baking and pastries.  If someone is insistent on serving this beer with an entree then make it a chocolate fondue!

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
Alley Kat Amber
Alley Kat Aprikat
Full Moon Pale Ale
Charlie Flint’s Original Lager
Pumpkin Pi Spiced Ale
Olde Deuteronomy

Also From Sherbrooke:
Sherbrooke Shamrock
Bad Hare Day
Pi Jiu
Aaiieeeeeeeeee Caramba!
Van Helsing’s All Natural Mouthwash

Other Porters:
Rogue Mocha Porter
Mill St. Coffee Porter
Fuller’s London Porter
Samuel Smith’s Old Taddy Porter

For The Adventurous:
Mort Subite Kriek
Trois Pistoles - Unibroue
Brooklyn Monster Ale