Beer 101: Lesson #6 - The Bitter Flower Part Two
Jason Foster
Last lesson we discussed the basics of hops and how they affect beer flavour and aroma - a crucial lesson for any aspiring beer drinker. However, it is the equivalent of learning the rules to football. You can watch and know basically what is going on, but to really understand the game, you need to know the difference between Canadian and U.S. football. Same game, vastly different results.
It is the same way with hops. There are dozens of varieties of hops available, and each offers different characteristics. They all impart bitterness and hop flavour and aroma - but what exactly does that mean? The answer depends on which type of hop you are using.
The best way to understand the differences between hop varieties is to compare them to grapes. Certain grapes are better suited for certain climates and soils. As a result, certain regions naturally grow certain types of grapes.
Hops are similar. Traditionally, there were four major hop growing regions in the world, and, not surprisingly, each region’s plants had particular qualities. These hops offered different flavours and aromas to the region’s beer. In today’s globalized world region doesn’t matter anymore. A brewer can use any hop from anywhere in the world, and every variety can be grown in any region.
Many craft brewers tell their drinkers what type of hop was used in the beer. For most drinkers this is superfluous information, but if you understand hop varieties, it can tell you a lot about what to expect from the beer. So, let’s walk through the basic varieties.
If we look to England we find hops that are very floral and earthy. English hops have a soft aroma that reminds me of spring meadows and fields of clover. They are a delicate hop and are particularly well-suited in beers aiming for balance. Classic English hops include Goldings, Fuggles, Challenger and Target.
Over in Germany, they, too have rounded hop varieties, but with a different quality. German hops are also floral, but a little spicier. They are fuller and deeper in their aroma and bitterness. The difference can be subtle. Indeed, often brewers will swap English and German styles without most drinkers noticing it. For German hops, look for Spalt, Hallertauer, Perle or Tettnanger.
Bohemia, now in Czech Republic, has the most unique, and possibly most appealing, hop - Saaz. It is related to German hops, but offers a crisper, grassy profile. Its affect is sharp, but remains flowery. It is an enticing and extremely inviting hop.
As a group the hops mentioned so far are classified as “noble hops”, as they are older and more traditional in brewing. If we cross the ocean to the U.S. we enter a whole different world of hops. American hops are sharper and more assertive - much like their country of origin. They tend toward a more citrus and grassy characteristic, sometimes providing woodiness or pine to the profile. They are not as soft, offering an edgier bitterness and more pronounced flavour and aroma. Grapefruit and other citrus qualities often come through, as do resin and mint notes. The classic American hop is Cascade, but other types, such as Chinook, Northern Brewer, Centennial, Williamette and Columbus also exhibit American characteristics.
A few adjectives describing the different hops are woefully inadequate to the task of informing you of the difference between hop varieties. Your best bet is, as usual, a taste sampling. The beers I suggest below are each excellent examples of the four hop families.
For an English hop effect, I can think of no better than Fuller’s ESB. The rich, caramel malt is accented by a soft, floral hop aroma and bitterness that screams of London. For the German hop, turn to Warsteiner. While not the best lager you will ever taste, it does display German hops relatively well.
For a Saaz hop tribute, look no further than Pilsner-Urquell. It exemplifies this hop. There is a big, grassy hop nose in this beer that will teach anyone what Saaz is all about. The challenge is finding a fresh bottle that has not been light-struck.
There is no shortage of beers exhibiting American hops. Maybe try Anchor Liberty Ale or Dogfish Head 90-Minute IPA to get a strong sense of what cascade and other American hops taste like.
Once you learn the different varieties of hops, a whole new world of beer appreciation opens up to you. I regularly enjoy a game of “guess the hops” when I sip a newly found beer. Not only do hops provide a wide range of flavours to a beer, they can also tell you quite a bit about its origins.