Beer 101: Lesson #4 - Location Location Location
Jason Foster
Beer is an international drink, appreciated worldwide. And in the past 50 years it is an increasingly homogenized, globalized one. Who cares whether the beer is made in Canada, England or Bangladesh? As long as it is made right and tastes good.
In one respect that is true. In my home brewery I can make every style of beer that exists, as long as I can procure the right ingredients. Beer styles do not belong to a particular region, unlike wine where certain grapes only grow in certain climates. But that is not to say that the geographic coordinates of a beer are irrelevant.
Quite the opposite, actually. In fact, region is deeply ingrained in the history and character of beer. And despite globalization and corporatization, it continues to display a proud connection to local tradition. Understanding beer and how to appreciate its flavours relies surprisingly upon knowing its regional origins, because it can tell you much about what to expect and about why it is brewed the way it is.
To prove my point, let’s start with one of the oldest and more obvious differences in regional beer tradition: England vs. Germany. Think about an English beer. What do you expect to find? Myself, I think of a couple of key characteristics. I expect it to be an ale, not too dark, nor too light. Fruitiness and balance will be distinguishable qualities. British brewers like their hops, but not in an overpowering fashion - preferring to counter it with some rich caramel, toffee malts. Classic versions of British ale are Fuller’s ESB or Newcastle Brown ale.
Contrast that with Germany. Their non-wheat beers are cleaner, crisper and more accented toward one extreme or the other. They make rich, malty beers like Ayinger Celebrator, and sharp, hoppy beers like Warsteiner or Konig Pils. They aim for a full experience of one quality in beer.
Why is that? It comes down to a matrix of water chemistry, climate, government regulation and historical accident. Water in Germany differs wildly between cities. Some areas, like Munich and Bavaria have water better suited for malty beer (moderate carbonates). Others, like Dortmund and Hamburg, have water that accents hops (higher in sulphates). England has more uniform water chemistry (for the most part), leading to a more balanced beer profile.
Plus, a few hundred years ago, depending on where you lived the government might encourage hop or barley use in beer or it might discourage it through taxation. And that shaped what brewers did, based on simple economics.
The historical reasons for why regions established their own style of beers is complex, but rather interesting. And it informs why we can still taste the difference today. Beer drinkers’ palates developed over centuries to prefer beers of a particular flavour and style. It has demonstrably carried itself down through generations. The English are still not huge fans of German beer, and vice versa.
Region matters. Even in our globalized world the location of the brewer can tell us a lot about what to expect from the beer. It can tell us what brewing tradition they come from and what their water and local ingredients encourage.
So here is a quick and partial guide to what to expect from beers from particular regions:
Scotland/Ireland - Reflecting their colonized status with England, their beers are quite different than English beers. Fewer hops (due to taxation and shipping costs) and more malt accent their styles. Think Kilkenny, Traquair House or Belhaven. Rich and sweet beers.
Eastern Europe - Following the lead of the Czechs, eastern Europe leans toward crisp lagers with a hoppy accent. Blame it on their unbelievable ability to grow impressive hops. Pilsner Urquell is the classic.
Belgium - Their beer is less about climate and more about personality. For Belgians, a standard 5% barley-based beer is boring. The fun begins after that. Odd spices, funky yeasts, and big alcohol characterize Belgian beer.
Northwest Coast USA - The northwest coast of the US has fallen in love with hops. The region is well-suited for growing hops, but generally varieties that are citrusy and bold. Their beers are hop accented, usually with a beautiful hop aroma.
Latin America - Heat creates a desire for a thirst-quenching beer. Beers from central and south America are scarily easy to drink, with low levels of hops and a refreshing balance of sweet and dry.
Canada - We can’t claim a style all our own. We generally steal from others. However, I will say that I believe Canadian brewers hybridize their beers well. Canadian versions of classic styles tend to be a little fuller with a focus on refreshing. But, our lack of history is a handicap. What may be the classic Canadian beer is Yukon Gold.
While this is an incomplete accounting, I hope it gives a sense that location matters. Different regions have distinct brewing traditions, which lead to unique tastes and characteristics in their beer. So when next shopping for a beer, think about where the beer comes from and consider how it will affect aroma, taste and overall impression.