Style: Russian Imperial Stout
ABV: 10%
Presentation: 650 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Alley Kat Brewing Co.
Country: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

“We have ways of making you drink, comrade.”  Or so states the label.  No need to take it personally or show your papers comrade, you’ve been cleared to try this locally produced Russian Imperial Stout, several times over.  In fact get ready for something special.  This KGB has everything to do with the ABC.

Now in this case ABC stands for the Aurora Brewing Challenge, a homebrewing competition hosted by the Edmonton Homebrewers Guild since 1999, and the 2^nd largest of its kind in the country.  Plus ever since 2006 the Alley Kat Brewery has been brewing a beer chosen from the winner’s portfolio for mass consumption, along with the Sherbrooke Liquor Store jumping in to carry it in 2008 as an anniversary exclusive to the store, last year’s being the surprisingly successful Heatseeker coconut curry porter-surprising how tasty and how well it sold for such a unique beer style that is.

KGB is just as cryptic at first as the ABC, representing the old Edmonton-area powerhouse brewing team of Kevin Zaychuck, Glen Hannah, and overall winner of this year’s Aurora Brewing Challenge Bruce Sample, who chose this particular recipe and style from his personal brewing portfolio to represent himself and as a tribute to this classic homebrewing monopoly.  I know you’re a swift crowd and have already put together the fact that KGB represents the first initial of the first names of these fine homebrewers.

This particular style came to prominence in the 1700’s thanks to Russia’s Czarina of the time, Catherine The Great, and her unquenchable taste for strong dark beer.  What initially started as the commission of a British brewery soley for the Russian Imperial court became such a ragingly popular style that it was named after its initial customer.  I’ll go into more depth on this history in a forthcoming column.

Whether you are familiar with this style or not we are talking about an intense dark 10% ale brewed with 6 different malts and 3 separate hops.  In fact I was shocked and surprised to see such a hop bill for a stout, as it was enough to power your average hoppy India Pale Ale into a bitter pine sap and grapefruit rind orbit of bliss.  However with such an intense density of malt it’s all that can be done to simply balance it all out to prevent an overload of sweetness and astringent grainy bitterness.  The result is a magic show of sleight-of-hand, what you get also includes what you don’t see. Think of it as a stout and then some, and then some more.

Let this bottle warm up a good 10-20 minutes before cracking it open, trust me on this.  There is so much malty goodness to be had and enjoyed that it’s worth the wait.  While you’re doing this you can take the time to choose your favourite mug, the bigger the better.  Of course a pint glass will also serve well as a trusty stand-by.  When you pour it into your chosen glass be prepared to stare in the heart of darkness, true to form this stuff is opaque pitch black and impervious to light.  At first the head will be a tall dense dark sandy mound that appears with the pour, slowly settling down to a tight creamy beige cap that will linger for almost the whole time it takes to empty the glass.  A few lingering inhalations should deliver up some notes of a sweet mocha, light molasses, and dark roasted malt.  The flavour continues along this motif with sweet treacle at first, dry dark roasted malt, even a bit of smoke and wood if your taste buds are in tune, with the roasted malt rounding it all up as well, although if you’re really good you may even pick out some spicy herbal notes from all the hops that were use.  And even though it may look like thick gooey motor oil this KGB Stout has a much lighter mouthfeel than anticipated, mid ranged with low carbonation and a bit of stickiness that will coat the palate.  A great local introduction to this style for people who have never ventured this far to the dark side before.  It’s a limited edition, so enjoy it while it lasts!

Stouts tend to be great to pair with grilled red meat, and this Russian Imperial Stout is big and bold enough to match and harmonize with game fowl and animals too, so consider this the perfect bottle to bring along for dinner if your friend has a freezer full of deer or moose.  Another classic pairing is with oysters, dressed up or in their own briny goodness.  KGB will also be your best friend when it comes to dessert, paired with anything of a chocolate base, or gourmet and handmade chocolates and truffles.  Fruit-based dessert can’t lose either, especially dark berries from cherries, strawberries to blackberries.  Cheesecake anyone?  Don’t forget that this big bottle, so grab a good comrade and feel free to share!

The next steps in the cooler:

In-Style:
Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout - Lost Coast
Samuel Smith’s Imperial Stout
Lagunitas Imperial Stout
Peche Mortel - Dieu Du Ciel
Pike Entire-Wood Aged Stout
Brewdog Paradox

Other Stouts:
St-Amboise Oatmeal Stout
Bête Noire - Paddock Wood
Stir Stick Stout - Half Pints
Midnight Sun Espresso Stout - Yukon
Jamaica Stout
Pike Street XXXXX Stout
Rogue Shakespeare Stout
Spell-Binding Stout - Wychwood
Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout
Young’s Double Chocolate Stout
Rogue Chocolate Stout

Lateral Steps:
Brooklyn Monster Ale
Mill St. Barleywine
Olde Deuteronomy - Alley Kat
Double Double - Paddock Wood
Old Crustacean - Rogue
Jewbelation 12 - He’Brew
Palo Santo Marron - Dogfish Head

For The Adventurous:
Humulus Ludicrous - Half Pints
Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA
Bittersweet Lenny’s R.I.P.A. - He’Brew
Tree Hophead

Jason Foster

I realize that even for a column designed to teach the basics about beer, a piece distinguishing ale from lager has the potential to insult the reader’s intelligence. It is the most fundamental division in beer and so talking about it can devolve into obviousness. But trust me for a minute and read on. The differences between lager and ale are both more profound and less demarcated that one might think.

Let’s, briefly, start at the beginning. There are two essential determinants for classifying a beer as “ale” or “lager” – and they are interdependent. First, and most fundamental, is the temperature at which the beer is fermented. Ales are fermented at room temperature (about 18-20 degrees Celsius); lagers colder (below 11 degrees). Lagers also get a period of “cold conditioning” near freezing temperatures, in German called “lagering” (hence the name – aren’t those brewers clever?)

Inherently connected to temperature is the second component – the strain of yeast used. Some yeasts perform best at room temperature, others at cooler levels. Over the centuries, brewers have isolated different types of yeast best suited for particular beers. The distinction between lager yeasts and ale yeasts evolved slowly, but is today quite clear.

Part of the explanation for the difference is historical. Ales are older - going back probably 2000 years. But brewers are an innovative lot, and 500 years ago, someone tried storing their wort (beer juice prior to fermentation; pronounced “wert”) in a cave to make it last longer. To their surprise it both fermented and tasted unlike any other beer they had experienced. Lager was born.

But this is the boring part. More interesting is the effect on flavour. Lagers are cleaner, crisper, with a more thirst-quenching effect. This is due to the cold-aging. Ales, on the other hand, are fruiter, more complex on the tongue and have a rounded finish.

If I stopped here, I would definitely be insulting your intelligence. For as informative as that may be, it doesn’t actually tell you much about either variety of beer.

Because what it doesn’t say is that this clear demarcation can get very fuzzy very quickly. Certain lagers can have ale-like complexity and some ales have an obvious lager-ish cleanliness. As some quick examples, compare Ayinger Celebrator dopplebock with Yukon Arctic Red, or even Kilkenny. Celebrator is rich, dark, intensely malty with dark fruit notes. It is complex and warming. On the other hand, Arctic Red is abundantly crisp with a lovely balance of caramel malt and light hoppiness. Kilkenny is smooth, refreshing and clean.

From my descriptions you might label Celebrator as an ale, and Arctic Red and Kilkenny as lagers. You would be wrong – proving the point that the lines are less clear than first thought.

Beer is a complex creature. Many variables shape the final impression of the beer. Celebrator is ale-like because of its bold malt profile. Arctic Red is intentionally brewed clean. Some beers are designed to blend the qualities of both ale and lagers. Such are the wonders of beer.

Making it more complicated is that malt sweetness and/or hop bitterness are equally likely in each type – as is colour. For example, Pilsner Urquell – a lager – displays a rich hoppiness, just like Alley Kat Full Moon – an ale. The differentiation lies elsewhere.
So what does this mean for you, the drinker? First, it does give you a starting place for evaluating your beer appreciation. Do you prefer a beer that is quenching and crisp, like Creemore Springs, Sapporo or Paddock Wood Black Cat Lager? Then you tend toward lagers. If nutty, fruity, more rounded beers appeal to you more – like Big Rock Traditional, Mill Street Stock Ale or Alley Kat Full Moon – then ales are your bailiwick.

Of course, you are free to appreciate both (as I do), and this is where the second benefit arises. It can develop your beer appreciation by informing you, in general terms, what to expect from a beer. By knowing how a beer is brewed, and what that means for the final product, you can better evaluate how well a particular beer meets expectations. Using your judgement, you can break through the marketing spin produced by some beer companies. Alexander Keith may call his beer an India Pale Ale, but one sip will tell you it is a standard pale lager.

Third, understanding the nature of the difference allows you to move beyond what the large brewers are pushing on you. It may surprise you to learn that the majority of beer styles are ales, given that the bulk of beer on liquor store shelves are lagers. This is due to large, corporate brewers building beers that appeal to the largest possible segment of beer drinkers. The result is beers that taste essentially the same.

By appreciating that some beer is INTENDED to taste different, you open yourself up to new possibilities for beer flavour. Not all beers are supposed to taste like Budweiser. That fruitiness or some bitterness or a sweeter finish might just be what that beer is supposed to taste like. And that allows you to experience it for what it is. And maybe buy another.

And you come to realize the only one’s insulting your intelligence are the marketing departments of the big breweries.

Style: Pilsner
ABV: 4.6%
Presentation: 500 ml brown bottle
Brewery: Zatec Brewery
Country: Czech Republic

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

Not all pilsners are made equal, but one thing’s for sure, Zatec sure stands out from the crowd.  For those interested in branching out a bit from their usual fare such as Molson’s popular chuck wagon bedecked version, or the afficianado who knows exactly what makes a true pilsner and draws them to the style, this import is a real treat.  The beer and the brewery itself are named after the region in Czech Republic that it is brewed in, which is famous for its Saaz hops and boasts exports of them for over 1000 years.  In fact Zatec is Czech for Saaz.  The current facility brewing Zatec is about 200 years old, built on the grounds of an old castle in collaboration with a neighbouring brewery, both of which had been producing beer in that region for almost 700 years now.

As with this particular style the fresher it is, the better. Unfortunately this brand doesn’t come with a “best before” or “brewed on” stamp on the bottle or the label.  Available in 500 ml brown bottles, expect to find a transparent golden amber body in appearance when poured into glassware, along with a tall fluffy white head that will slowly settle and leave a good amount of lacing in its wake as the glass is emptied.  A baked bread aroma from the malt will also greet you, even a bit of a metallic character from the grain, along with mildly spicy, grassy hints of Saaz hops.  Silky smooth is the texture of the mouthfeel, this is a well balanced pilsner, with the biscuity character of the malts blending nicely with the floral and grassy qualities of the hops.  Some versions of pilsners like to lean more heavily towards a bitter dandelion green hop presence, yet for those intimidated by hoppy beers Zatec is still very approachable and balanced, in fact I would recommend it as a great introduction to the style for the uninitiated.  Personally this is one of my new favourite pilsners since I first sampled it, one of the most enjoyable of the style that I’ve had in quite a while.  Definitely worth trying.

For those interested in pairing this balanced pilsner with food you suddenly have a new best friend for your Mexican cuisine (although not the overly spicy dishes) or your next Indian take-out, so long as you don’t get too hot of a curry like madras or vindaloo.  However it’s refined enough to not overwhelm sushi either, or many noodle dishes.  Ham will also pair well with Zatec, even the saltier or spicier varieties.  And when seafood is on the menu this is almost an ideal match for most shellfish, from crab and lobster to mussels and clams.  Lastly for the cheese lovers out there a rule of thumb is to pair pilsners with American Cheese, yet the assertive malt presence in Zatec will also go nicely with Swiss, Emmental and Havarti.

The next steps in the cooler:

In-Style:
Krusovice
Czechvar
Pilsner Urquell
Radeberger

Domestic Fare:
Czechmate - Paddockwood
Phil’s Pils - Half Pints
Kelowna Pilsner - Tree Brewing
Powderhound Pilsner - Grizzly Paw

Lateral Steps:
Wild Rose S.O.B. (Special Old Bitter)
Pump House S.O.B. (Special Old Bitter)
Propeller Bitter
Fuller’s ESB (Extra Special Bitter)

For The Adventurous:
Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA
Bittersweet Lenny’s R.I.P.A. - He’Brew
Rogue XS Imperial IPA

Style: American Pale Wheat Ale
ABV: 4.5%
Presentation: 6 packs of 341 ml brown bottles
Brewery: Wild Rose Brewery
Country: Calgary, Alberta, Canada

KANPAI! w/ Jeff Werstiuk

No my friends, this isn’t a write-up on jazz or Mel Torme, although something nearly as smooth. The thing is, back in 1998 Wild Rose brewed the first commercially available unfiltered wheat beer in Alberta, which in a glass would have appeared as some sort of “fog” to the masses of those uninitiated to such a thing. However with a malt bill of 50% wheat rounded out with the other 50% of barley, a smooth flavour and mouthfeel can be expected as well. Almost velvety smooth one could say. I’ll let you piece it all together. In the end what we have here is an accessible introduction to unfiltered wheat beers for those of you who were always curious, but were unsure where to start without getting too overwhelmed.

A tall fluted weizen glass would be ideal to serve this in, however a pint glass will work too. Expect a short spongy white head that will probably not linger long, while the beer itself is more hazy than cloudy and a bright golden hue. Regarding the aroma, it is not as intense as many wheat beers can be, offering some mild sweet wheat with light touches of bready malt. Some might even pick up faint notes of citrus, of lemon zest. Another point of note is that the mouthfeel is also a bit fuller than would be expected for this style, which is a nice touch, while some light carbonation is also effective in carrying a clean zippy texture. Bready malt up front in the flavour, mild grainy tart wheat on the finish, and the faintest of spice in the aftertaste, with hints of citrus zest at time.

Velvet Fog would pair surprisingly well with egg dishes, from omelettes to quiche, and is also an ideal partner for salads of almost any incarnation. Mild white fish is also an ideal match, along with sashimi if you don’t go too heavy on the soy sauce. This is also a refreshing wheat beer for sitting in the sun on the patio or balcony, although an accompanying wedge of lemon or orange, while a refreshing addition, is purely optional based on personal taste.

The next steps in the cooler:

From This Brewery:
WRaspberry Ale
Brown Ale
IPA (India Pale Ale)
WRed Wheat
SOB (Special Old Bitter)

In-Style:
Pyramid Hefe Weizen
Pyramid Crystal Wheat Ale
Okanagan Springs Hefeweizen
Tree Hefeweizen

Lateral Steps:
Konig Ludwig Weiss
Erdinger Weissbier
Hacker-Pschorr Hefe Weisse
Blanche De Chambly - Unibroue

For The Adventurous:
Impériale Weizen Grande Cuvée - Les Trois Mousquetaires
Schneider Aventinus
La Fin Du Monde - Unibroue